We did not have much time before our 0600 departure on Tuesday 11th April 2006, but this was filled with trips to the supermarket (French wine - dontcha love it - and their wonderful cassoulets), dining in some great restaurants in Les Sables d'Olonne and last minute fixes.
Despite the very cold weather Norma decided to have a shower on the boat on Monday morning - hm, why was the shower water draining into the main bilge and why wouldn't the bilge pump clear it? A quick call to the factory and a team of people arrived - identified a drain hole that should not have been there and filled it, then replaced the pump only to find there was a tiny grain of dirt preventing a seal and causing it to suck in air. That was fixed, just leaving the software problem with the radar that had not been sorted. The electronics guy arrived, summoned a technician to come down from Nantes but it was to no avail. No radar - just have to hope there's no fog.
That was it - everything else was in order and our snagging list had been addressed.

A final meal at our favourite marina restaurant, Force 7, on Monday night where the craic was mighty, and we were ready for the off.

So, it was back to Minnie B for a relatively early night, since we were to be awake at 0600 if we were to make the tidal gate at the Raz de Sein on the 12th April.

The Plan

The overall plan was to remain flexible, remembering that we were not going 'to' anywhere but we were going 'towards'. We had to be ready to abort because of work deadlines and Julia's return to university, but our overall plan was to do the following legs:
1. Les Sables d'Olonne to L'Aber-Wrac'H - c.36 hours with a night in L'Aber-Wrac'H;
2. L'Aber-Wrac'H to Falmouth - c.12 hours with a night in Falmouth
3. Falmouth to Howth - c.36 hours with a night in Howth
4. Howth to Bangor - c.12 hours.

We nearly did everything to plan.

Leg 1: Les Sables d'Olonne towards L'Aber-Wrac'H, Tuesday 11th - Wednesday 12th April 2006

Les Sables d'Olonne: 046º30'N 001º48'W
L'Aber-Wrac'H: 048º35'N 004º34'W

Distance: 211nm
ETD: 0700 11th April 2006
ETA: 1900 12th April 2006

Gale Force Greg had provided a forecast the previous evening which was for no wind in the morning of 11th, with W F3 by 1400 and building to W F5 in the evening and night, veering and easing on the morning of 12th to NW F3, then W-NW F3 all day on 12th. If it held, we would be fine for our passage plan.

The temperature had dropped the previous evening so we kept our small electric heater running all night (using the shore power). We awoke at 0600 to a cosy boat, sub-zero temperatures outside and frost on the pontoons. A quick wash to wake us all up and into our cold weather gear, with some tea and cereal to get us going.

Final checks of the boat and we were ready to cast off, remembering at the last minute that our new toy had a some new things for us to do, like lower the keel and pump down the hydraulic folding rudder.

We left the berth at 0707, with the barometer showing 1023 and wind F1 variable.

Brian and Jill were up too (staying at the Hotel L'Admiral) to wave us off as we headed out of the marina towards the sea - the same route as the Vendee Globe boats, but they turn south-west and we were turning north-north-west.

At 0900 Norma settled into one of her trademark activities of the trip - keeping up the morale of the crew with a constant supply of tasty food and drink. So it was coffee and petits beurres. The sun shone, there was no wind and little sea. It was also time to get to grips with the chartplotter and some good progress was made in understanding its entry level functionality. We motored along, varying the engine revolutions every fifteen minutes and then every half hour so that the engine would run in OK and we would avoid glazing the cylinders. Progress varied between 5 and 6.5 kts, which was fine and keeping us on schedule for the Raz de Sein the following morning.

The forecast was for the wind to fill in during the afternoon (W F3) and strengthen in the evening and overnight (W F5). In the meantime, we just enjoyed being at sea and playing with various bits of electronic equipment. We were comfortable with the forecast even though we would probably be close hauled with our course of around 300 degrees.

We hoisted the mainsail at 0930 and motor-sailed with the breeze steadying the boat and giving us a little more speed.

The wind did build from 1600 and by 1800 with F4, we had a reef in the main and 2/3 genoa. Minnie B felt comfortable.

By 2100 we had a full F5 and by 2300 we were experiencing prolonged spells of F6 with rain, which carried on until 0100 when over the next three hours the wind eased back to F3. BUT, the wind had not stayed in the west. Sod's law had been invoked and it veered earlier than expected, moving into the north-west by 2100 - bang on the nose. We put in the first of four tacks at 0015 (47º 38'N 04º 00W) to bear away from Les Iles de Glenan, and taken with an adverse tide out went our plan for the Raz de Sein on that leg.

By 0800 12th April we were going to miss the Raz by 2 hours so it was time for 'plan B' and Audierne looked most promising as it was not too far from the Raz and we could have a restful afternoon there.

By 0830 the wind had dropped to F2-3 and the headsail was rolled away. As the wind continued to ease, we motor-sailed round the impressive Pointe de Penmarc'h with its 65m tower at 0945 and changed course to 341º to head for Audierne.

We had split ourselves into two watches for the overnight:
 Norma and David - 1930-2200; 0200-0600;
 Phil and Julia - 2200-0200; 0600-1000.

The watches started after dinner on 11th and our normal safety rules when sailing at night were applied: lifejacket/harness and safety line attached to a jackstay before going into the cockpit. We did four hours watches so that those off watch could get a better chance of sleeping. It seemed to work well and those ending a watch put on a brew for those coming on watch. Full briefings of what was about in terms of fishing boats, lights, tide and position were given. The sea was quite lumpy but no-one succumbed to more than a bit of queasiness which was solved by staying on deck or steering.

We arrived at 1215 at Anse de Ste. Evette, a small anchorage with visitors' moorings, just outside the river Le Goyen which runs into the channel and down from the small marina in Audierne. We decided to pick up a mooring as the channel in the river is dredged only to 1m at low water and does an interesting couple of dog legs. Despite Minnie B drawing only 0.58m with the keel up and the rudder folded, we decided that this was not going to be our first experiment in shallow water.

We had completed 170nm in 29 hours 10 mins at an average speed of 5.8 kts. The rhumb line from Les Sables d'Olonne to Audierne is 153nm but the beating had added distance and we had lost some boat speed.

So, with the sun shining, we settled down to a splendid lunch with hot rolls, delicious pate and cheese, and a beer.

Then we had some visitors - dolphins.

Les Douanes (customs) had a boat moored nearby and an office ashore, so a brand spanking new Ovni with a red duster was definitely of interest. Four heavily armed douanes arrived and hopped aboard. Two were clearly providing the muscle, one was learning to run the show and the fourth played the role of coach. So, lots of polite questions and out with the paperwork. They got a bit frosty about comparative VAT rates in France and UK but moved on to other matters when all the paperwork was in order. Our passports were inspected and one of the muscle phoned the numbers to some monitoring unit, which confirmed that Norma, Julia and David had indeed flown in to La Rochelle on Sunday - that level of surveillance was a bit shocking but then in the post-9/11 and post-7/7 world we should expect and, perhaps, hope for it.

They inspected down below, were quite happy to leave Julia undisturbed as she slept in one of the aft cabins, and were most taken with the iPod connected to the radio/CD player. After about an hour they said their goodbyes and left. We had heard that the duanes can be a bit unfriendly and we know of people who have had visits that resulted in scratches and damage to woodwork as they conduct their searches, but ours were polite, courteous and careful - to the question "do you have any drugs or arms?" we said "no". Maybe that's what did it.

At 1430, we left the mooring and headed up river, finding a berth on one of the pontoon hammerheads.

Audierne is an attractive port with the usual cafés, bars and restaurants, and quite a good chandlery where a few bits and pieces were bought. We had a stroll round the old streets and took tea and cakes in a patisserie overlooking the harbour where the fishing boats are tied up.

Some essential maintenance was carried out, with the diesel being topped up from containers, and the engine oil level and coolant also being topped up.

We then thought we had the worst of all on-board jobs to deal with. During the night the head off the saloon appeared to be blocked, but as they say "two heads are better than one", and we could use the forward head. We had put off dealing with this but it had to be tackled. First thing was to check the valves and lo and behold, someone from the factory had left the valve switched to the holding tank - we should have thought of this with the boat having been in the marina for a month. So, yippee no marigolds needed this time.

The marina provides showers (for a Euro) but the pontoon shore power for the boat was down. Fortunately it was now warmer than the day previously, so we were OK without the heater. Dinner was taken on board and we sampled some of the red Burgundy bought in Les Sables d'Olonne.

We felt that we had been tested overnight and not found wanting. All agreed that Minnie B made us feel safe - and all agreed that as we get to know her we will sail her better, and this was to include remembering we were cruising not racing so it was OK to reef a bit earlier.

Leg 2: Audierne towards L'Aber-Wrac'H, Thursday 13th April 2006

Audierne: 048º01'N 004º32'W
L'Aber-Wrac'H: 048º35'N 004º34'W

Distance: 58nm
ETD: 0800 13th April 2006
ETA: 1600 13th April 2006

Gale Force Greg yet again provided a forecast the previous evening which was for West F3.

This was Phil and Norma's 30th wedding anniversary - it was pearls. First things first, so presents were exchanged and congratulations shared. Then it was with some trepidation that we set out for the Raz de Sein and Chenal du Four. We had pored over the charts, seen the photographs of mountainous seas and read about the tidal horrors that could be encountered, so it was with concentrated focus that we read and re-read our passage plan.

The weather when we awoke was overcast, the barometer 1020 and no wind.

The timing was good as we wanted to get out of Audierne while there was enough water in the channel, and arrive at the Raz de Sein for the start of slack water at 1050 (High Water). We left the pontoon in Audierne at 0800 and motored west-north-west, with full main hoisted, for the 15nm to the Raz without pressing too hard. The sea was calm as we passed between Le Chat rocks off the Ile de Sein and to port, and La Plate west cardinal marking the rocks to starboard at Le Pointe du Raz and La Vieille light. Neptune had responded well to the champagne proffered at the naming ceremony four days earlier.

Our passage required us to keep a half mile off La Plate and steer north with a back bearing on La Vieille of 160-200 degrees. We left the rocky outcrop, with a white house, of Tevennec to port and it was then mark to mark pilotage.

We steered 350º for 10nm towards the west cardinal Vandree and left it to starboard. Then on 2nm steering 000º for Basse Royale a south cardinal left to port and avoiding the many rocks by Bozmen Occidental and Bozmen Oriental. Another 2nm on and having steered 010º, we were leaving to port Fourmi, a green channel mark, and entering the Chenal du Four with 4-5kts of north-going tide. Just over a mile further on we left a red channel mark, Tourmant et Lochrist, to starboard and were swept onwards to leave Grand Vinotiere, another red lateral mark, to starboard. We continued on 000º for another 5nm passing east of St Pierre (green), and west of St Paul (red). A change of course to 340º for 1nm to Le Tendoc (red), then 1nm further on we left Les Platresses (green) to port and La Valbelle (red) to starboard, and we were through.

We were pleased with our pilotage, with David taking the lead and everyone keeping a good look out - visibility was good but care was needed. We had completed a challenging passage, having got our timing just right and been able to use a light wind to help us through without problem. There was an important lesson learned though - trying to identify marks too soon is just as bad as too late, since there had been a bit of confusion about a south cardinal and an east cardinal at Ile de Beniguet at the south end of Chenal du Four.
Norma had continued to keep morale high with well timed coffee, snacks and lunch.

At 1345 we unfurled the genoa, turned off the engine and we were sailing past Le Four light (28m at 48º31'N 004º48'W) and on to L'Aber-Wrac'h, looking forward to a meal in a fine French restaurant to celebrate the 30th anniversary. The wind was in the west and picked up to F4/5. We had a speedy downwind sail that was all too short, arriving at 1635, having covered 58nm. Now that was interesting because the log read 48nm - a significant underreading and something for the 'to do' list.

The entrance to L'Aber-Wrac'H is another maelstrom of vicious looking rocks and not somewhere to be in poor visibility and weather - it was bright and clear for us. We put the sails away and motored towards the harbour where we were expecting to find somewhere to tie up.
It all looked a bit odd, and as we got closer we realised why - the good burghers of L'Aber-Wrac'H had filled in the harbour and there was major engineering taking place. Disappointment hit us - we had been so looking forward to a final French restaurant, but it was not to be.

Fortunately there were lots of visitors' buoys and we picked up one of these. With the wind now rising to over 25kts we put on an extra line to the mooring. There is always the anxiety that you have no idea what you are hanging on to - what size/weight of boat is this designed for? When was the mooring last serviced? Just how do you set the anchor alarm among the electronic gadgetry on board? As the wind eased during the evening and with the daily forecast in from Gale Force Greg our anxieties also eased.

Well, under the circumstance we just had to have the wedding anniversary celebration anyway, so more inroads were made into the stock of wine and Norma produced one of our favourite French recipe meals: sausages, potato and onion baked in the oven, accompanied by the sweetest petits poids.

Leg 3: L'Aber-Wrac'H towards Falmouth, Friday 14th April 2006

L'Aber-Wrac'H: 048º35'N 004º34'W
Falmouth: 050º09'N 005º03'W

Distance: 95nm
ETD: 0800 14th April 2006
ETA: 2100 14th April 2006

A phone call to 'Gale Force' Greg had produced a MeteoFrance forecast of:
 0800 SW 12kts
 1400 S 6kts
 2000 NE 13kts.

This was not going to be fast sailing. No, this was not going to be sailing at all. We had about 95nm to cover and motor-sailing was the best we could hope for. The barometer was at 1016 and the forecast outlook was for a few days of quiet weather.

Norma produced a great breakfast of eggs and beans - there was some concern about the possibility of deck frogs later on but we were not deterred by this.

We adjusted our watches from French Summer Time to BST. Our departure from L'Aber-Wrac'H was at 0820 under engine with a southerly F1 and the sun shining. This was one of the big ones for us - our first trans-Manche. Yes, our big adventure was continuing: all being well we would be experienced cross-Channel sailors by the end of the day.

But what about the anxiety - there had to be some. We had heard the stories about wall-to-wall shipping and how difficult it would be to dodge in between the tankers and the container ships that would be hurtling along at 20-30kts and would be on top of us within 5 minutes of appearing over the horizon. Then, of course, they wouldn't be able to see us because we are so small. In any case they wouldn't see us because there wouldn't be anybody on the bridge keeping a lookout, and if we called them up on the VHF they wouldn't be able to speak English. So, we had better all keep a GOOD LOOKOUT.

At 1620 we saw our first ship - some 8 hours into the crossing and after 60nm. As we approached the English coast we saw about another eight ships. With one general cargo ship we were taking bearings for potential collision and there was some debate about slowing down to let her pass ahead, but in the end we pressed on and were well clear. If it had been at night and without radar the decision would probably have gone the other way.

The wind never arrived and it was light airs all the way across.

The iPod was strutting its stuff, blasting out favourite tunes. We had the obligatory sing-along to "Les Miserables", with Julia leading since she knows all the words so well that she can sing it in its entirety without the accompanying soundtrack.

The major anxiety though was whether we had enough fuel - an anxiety kept from the crew.

We arrived in Falmouth at 2030 and tied up at the fuel berth in Falmouth Yacht Haven, having completed the crossing of 95nm in 10 minutes over 12 hours. So we had done this at an average speed of 7.8kts, which was very pleasing as there was still plenty of time to get something to eat and have a few pints.

A quick rinse and change into shore clothes and we were in downtown Falmouth - what a choice of restaurants! What? No choice of restaurants? It was Good Friday and the whole of the south west of England had decided that eating out in Falmouth was the only thing to do. After trying at least half a dozen restaurants that were all full and booked out, we fell back on that old reliable "we'll squeeze you in somewhere, cos we're not turning custom away" - the Indian. We had a superb selection of curries washed down with copious amounts of Tiger beer. Afterwards, it was call in at one of the pubs that are on the waterfront beside the marina for some real ale, and then we were all suddenly quite tired and it was back to the boat and a quick raid on the 'naughty cupboard' for a wee nightcap.

Leg 4: Falmouth towards Howth, Saturday 15th - Sunday 16th April 2006

Falmouth: 050º09'N 005º03'W
Howth: 053º23'N 006º03'W
Distance: 241nm
ETD: 1000 15th April 2006
ETA: 2000 16th April 2006

The weather forecast from Gale Force Greg was for light, variable winds and good visibility. The barometer was at 1007.

We had managed to put 50 hours on the engine with the time at commissioning, so an oil and filter change were needed. Being alongside the fuel berth was very handy because they had waste facilities. However, we now discovered a very important tool missing from our fairly comprehensive tool kit - the oil filter remover. Eventually, after lots of serious risk to various blood vessels and the combined efforts of Phil and David, it moved and we were in business.

Just how low on fuel we were became clear when the diesel pump dial reached 257 litres - the tank is rated at holding 250 litres. It must be magic.

The passage had two main tidal gates to watch - Lizard Point and Land's End. It is 18.5nm from Lizard Point to Runnel Stone just south of Land's End, so they need to be taken together. We calculated our timing range for earliest and latest departures from Falmouth and we had to leave between 0730 and 1100. We aimed for:
 Depart Falmouth 1000;
 Pass Lizard Point 1230;
 At Runnel Stone mark 1530.

This gave us the time to do the oil change, refuel, generally tidy up, have showers and do a bit of shopping - the tasks were shared.

We eventually got away at 1020, and motored. We passed the Runnel Stone mark at 1500 (37nm) and were abeam Pendennis Point at 1600.

We had waved at all the people visiting the Land's End tourist trap and hoped they waved back.

We settled into an easy routine of reading, looking out, listening to music and having a yarn. Yet again Norma maintained a high level of morale with frequent food and drinks treats.

We planned a slightly different watch system and got into it earlier in the day so we were better rested:
 Phil and Julia - 1600-1800; 2000-2200; 0200-0600;
 Norma and David - 1800-2000; 2200-0200; 0600-1000.

However, this was interrupted at 1900 with the dramatic and wonderful sights of a pod of six dolphins enjoying themselves leaping around the bow. They stayed with us for about 40 mins and we were sad to see them go. Here was a live show that we only usually get to see on television programmes such as 'Planet Earth'. It is another part of the sailing magic - we are privileged to see these things and we are grateful.

Norma produced a fine meal of pasta and we were allowed one glass of wine. The night was clear, the stars were out in abundance and we could steer by the Pole star - it was getting even more magical. Yet, the wind remained a memory and a hope.

We passed close to the traffic separation zone off The Smalls to the west of Pembrokeshire (51º 42'N 06 º 03'W) at around 0400 and saw more shipping than we had seen in the English Channel.

When we all assembled for some breakfast at 1000, we exchanged Easter eggs - it was Easter Sunday. Norma did it again with bacon and egg sandwiches and once more we affirmed that food tastes best at sea.

We motored on north with good views of the Wicklow Mountains. The wind never rose above F2 and we arrived in Howth at 1820, having completed 240nm in 32 hours, and an average speed of 7.5kts.

We tied up at the fuel berth at Howth Marina and were met by a welcoming group of Howth Yacht Club members who had clearly not seen our red duster as they brought along a French speaker to act as interpreter. They were fascinated by the stern arch and the hull finish, and this made us feel very proud of Minnie B.

Having refuelled we moved to one of the hammerheads on the pontoons and serendipitously encountered Jim to whom we had sold our Sigma 33 'Sirius', and there she was a few berths down. This was not too great a coincidence but it was nice to see the old and the new together.

A quick change got us up to the Yacht Club bar for a few pints of Guinness and a yarn with Jim. Then it was over to the Italian restaurant (Portofino) for food and more wine than we had intended. So much so, that the naughty cupboard had some serious visiting when we got back to the boat. We were just so elated that we had made it to the Irish coast. We had been prepared for weather that would force us to leave Minnie B at some point and as we ticked off the least favourable places in order (south Brittany, north Brittany, Falmouth, Milford Haven, Irish coast) we had a great sense of triumph - Neptune and Aeolius had been kind, along with anyone else watching over us.

That night the craic was truly mighty as we looked forward to the final leg up to Bangor.

Leg 5: Howth towards Bangor, Monday 17th April 2006

Howth: 053º23'N 006º03'W
Bangor: 054º40'N 005º40'W

Distance: 85nm
ETD: 0600 17th April 2006
ETA: 1800 17th April 2006


The forecast from Gale Force Greg now was for a westerly F5, which with the weather shore would be just perfect for a cracking sail to Bangor.

The tides at Donaghadee Sound were a prime consideration in our departure time and so we were up at 0500 to a very toasty boat, having let the electric heater run overnight.

We left Howth Marina at 0605 and were very quickly speeding along in a westerly F4. The wind increased to F5 through the morning and we had some sun and broken cloud.

We put in a reef at 15kts and then rolled away the genoa to the first mark. By 1200 the wind had eased to F2 and we fired up the engine to keep us on schedule. Then by 1340 the wind was back up to F4/5 but it was starting to veer to NW, which was not so good.

By the time we reached South Rock lightship (54º 24.5'N 05º 22'W) at 1500 the wind was in the north and bang on the nose. The engine was needed as we had to be through Donaghadee Sound before 1930.

We had plenty of time, but with home feeling closer we were getting a slight dose of the "Channels" - that old merchant seaman's condition brought on after being away at sea for months/years and by the anticipation of returning to home port.

With still quite a bit of north-going tide and a northerly wind the exit from Donaghadee Sound was quite lumpy, but Minnie B ploughed on through and we completed our trip, tying up in Bangor Marina at 1810.

We were met by a welcoming party of David's wife Jackie, Gale Force Greg and his wife Carol, along with friends Nigel and Bertie, bearing several bottles of champagne.

This last leg was 87nm in 12 hours 5 minutes - an average speed of 7.2kts.

The overall trip had been 650nm in 94 hours of sailing and motoring - an average speed of 6.9kts and the whole trip was completed in seven days, with four nights tied up and two nights at sea.

We loved it all. We were very pleased with Minnie B and we were reassured by her behaviour in the first night of strong winds. We could only look forward to lots more sailing.