Rodrigues: Indian Ocean Gem
22 August 2015
Isn’t it great when somewhere exceeds expectations? Well, the island of Rodrigues, just 11 miles by 5 miles, has done that in spades.
The anchorage in the harbour at Port Mathurin is safe in strong winds as the inner reef provides protection. The holding is good in about 10 metres apart from one stretch where the current zips through and has scoured the bottom hard.
The only downside to the anchorage is the arrival and departure of the supply ships. When we came in two weeks ago there was a temporary Port Captain who allowed the yachts to stay at anchor if they were close to the western reef. However, the new Port Captain has arrived and he is probably a bit less certain of the situation so he takes no chances and we all have to up anchor and go to the outer part of the bay, still inside the outer reef, and hang about until the supply ship has tied up or cleared the channel. The ensuing rush to get back in for a choice anchoring spot is a little unedifying – ourselves and another Brit boat try to keep to some sort of pecking order based on how long you have been here, but others see it as an opportunity to pinch a good spot.
There has been one anchoring incident when we were all away for most of the day for a walk and lunch with a delightful Rodrigues-English couple, Liz and Tim (she is from here but was nursing in Birmingham when she met Tim and they now have a lovely house here overlooking Port Mathurin, and they are so welcoming to cruisers). From the top of the ridge we could see that a new yacht had arrived and was very close to MINNIE B’s stern, but we could also see a crew member at the bow taking care. We completed our walk and fabulous lunch then came back to see what was what. It turned out that Christiano (an Italian) on LIBERO (Brazil registered) went to start his engine to come in and the switch panel caught fire. He put it out, but no engine and he had to sail in and drop anchor. He had tried to get a clear spot but … So, no problem, no damage and we upped anchor again and moved.
We had a splendid day out with a hire car with Richard and Susan on SEA BUNNY – first met in Rebak, Langkawi and we had been in touch during our passages by SSB most days. We visited the Cathedral at St Gabriel, the superb Giant Tortoise Reserve Francois Leguat, which was far better than anything in Galapagos, the south coast, and parts of the east and north coasts, culminating in a very nice dinner at the 'Blue Marlin' in Anse aux Anglais.
There are some excellent walks around the island with a good walking map and paths are indicated with different coloured paint on rocks and trees. There are small cafes and restaurants dotted about the place too – food is quite cheap and some of the dishes are excellent but some are also a bit ordinary. Octopus is a favourite on the island and we have had some very nice preparations of this.
We have done two coastal walks: Riveire Banane to Pointe Coton with Susan and Richard, and Chris from SILVER GIRL (he was dismasted about 300 miles from here and is waiting for spars, rigging and sails); and from St Francois to Graviers. The latter is excellent with beautiful small bays and in places the reef comes quite close to the coast. The walks are about 90 minutes to two hours. The bus network is very good for getting about, but the last bus is usually late afternoon/early evening, and the published timetable seems fairly accurate.
The big event a week ago was the Feast of the Assumption, when a large gathering took place on the hill overlooking Port Mathurin for hymns and prayers – we went along to have a look. It rained a lot.
We also visited a school (Gonzague Pierre Louis Special Learning Centre) and workshop (Care-Co) for people with disabilities – mostly deafness and learning problems. Children with disabilities are not treated well in the community and are mostly ignored and even bullied (well the latter happens everywhere), so the school is important but the Principal (Suzanne from Scotland and also Hon British Consul) finds it hard to get funds. The workshop cannot take on all the people leaving the school and also struggles, making Coconut shell jewellery and artefacts, beehives and beekeeping equipment, chain link fencing and producing honey.
The anchorage is very sociable – someone always goes to buy a small baguette for an arriving boat. There is a restaurant in Port Mathurin called ‘Ti Piment Rouge’ where there is an eclectic mix of jazz, blues, ballads and old rock (think Procol Harum and “Whiter Shade of Pale”) by a quite good trio, so everyone goes there on a Friday night for dinner.
The daily market (not Sundays) is quite good for vegetables and fruit albeit limes and lemons are not easy to come by, and there are some OK supermarkets: the Mauritian beer, Phoenix, is good too.
So, the weather is looking good for a passage to Mauritius (350nm) and we plan to leave on Monday 24th August, along with SEA BUNNY and APOGEE (US boat with Robert and Lori, who we met in Cocos Keeling). The downside is that a supply ship is due in at 0700 so we have to move out of the harbour and then come back in to clear with Immigration, Customs and Coastguard, albeit Rodrigues and Mauritius are one country. The Port Captain and Coastguard are quite strict about leaving as soon as you have completed clearances so no grace as in some other places – apparently there used to be some flexibility but some idiot took on a Rodrigues passenger to Mauritius after clearance and spoiled it for everyone.