Friday 13th November – no superstitions here – saw the crews of SEA BUNNY (Susan and Richard), VULCAN SPIRIT (Ali and Richard), ZEN AGAIN (Nikki and Mike) and MINNIE B heading for Ladysmith and Dundee for a weekend of exploring key battlefields in the Boer-Zulu war around 1838, the Anglo-Zulu war of 1879 and the Anglo-Boer War of 1899-1902.

We were in three cars and took three different routes: we went on the southern route and encountered spectacular scenery as we crossed the hills and valleys of KwaZulu-Natal, Nikki and Mike had good scenery on the northern route while Ali and Richard’s middle route was fairly nondescript but enlivened by a detour because of an armed robbery on a security truck.

First up was the museum at Ladysmith which covered the siege of 1899 by the Boers and its relief after over three months by the British. This is an excellent museum right in the town centre and close by is the Royal Hotel with a café/bistro called Penelope’s and does excellent food and drinks.

We stayed at Chez Nous B&B in Dundee where we had a fine dinner. Our guide, Paul Garner (recommended in Lonely Planet), arrived at 0730 on Saturday for our day of touring in his Land Rover.

Our first stop was Blood River, where the Boers defeated a Zulu army in 1838, experiencing few casualties but inflicting between 3000 and 6000 Zulu casualties. The cause was, of course, a land grab by the Boers. The battle was mythologised by the Boers and for the Afrikaaners became one of the most significant events in their history, with the date of the battle, 16th December, becoming the Day of the Vow. Since the end of apartheid and democratic government in RSA, this has become the Day of Reconciliation.

It was here that we learned that we had all made a big mistake. The weather had turned cold and our party was largely dressed in sandals and shorts with little by way of warm tops, but we struggled on.

Next was Isandlwana where, on 22nd January 1879, idiot Lord Chelmsford in the illegal British invasion of Zululand, divided his army and did not prepare defences at his camp resulting in the 25,000 strong Zulu army wiping out all but a handful of the remaining British contingent comprising 1300-1700 men (there is some uncertainty about the exact number as the British did not accurately know the number of native troops fighting with them – of course).

Then on to nearby Rorke’s Drift where Michael Caine, Stanley Baker, Nigel Green and one hundred soldiers including ‘B’ Company of the 2nd Battalion, 24th (2nd Warwickshire) Regiment sang “Men of Harlech” and killed about 400 of the 4000 attacking Zulus – you have seen the film “Zulu”, haven’t you? Well, our guide said there were a few inaccuracies in the film, but the general gist gives an impression of what happened – amazing feats of bravery resulted in eleven Victoria Crosses being awarded. Some have said the number was so high to divert attention from the Isandlwana disaster. The controversy rages on.

Paul, our guide, told the story of these battles and the context in which they took place with a wonderful manner that kept is completely rapt and enthralled. Very highly recommended.

Then back to Chez Nous for a warm shower and another good dinner.

On Sunday our party split up with the Nikki, Mike, Ali and Richard heading for Drakensberg mountains and we returned to Richards Bay with Susan and Richard, calling at the Talana museum in Dundee, which is quite quirky and eclectic with displays ranging from the 1899 battle (the first in the Anglo-Boer war) to Bushmen and Zulu life, and onto the economic and industrial heritage of the area and its coal-mining and glass-making.

We stopped also at Ulundi, the scene of the final defeat of the Zulu army in the Anglo-Zulu war, in July 1879 and at the recreated ikhanda or homestead of King Cetshwayo that was burnt to the ground after the battle. This is now in the Ondini Cultural centre and museum, and we were well looked after by our guide, Felike.

The drive back to Richards Bay was awful as there was low cloud and rain, but we could not complain as the rain is very badly needed.

This was a superb weekend and truly very memorable.