Croatia then
22 July 2022
Phil Heaton
There is always a lot of negative chat and social media postings with horror stories for different parts of the world. The story for Croatia has been: expensive, difficult officials who will find any excuse to levy fines, nowhere to anchor and overcrowded.
Being good citizens, complying with laws and regulations, we went to Umag as the first port of entry in Croatia. Having tied up at the Customs quay, Norma was required to stay onboard while skipper Phil did the clearance. The police office is at the root of the quay and it all turned out to be very polite, convivial and friendly. Importantly, the police officer knew the Schengen rules and quickly identified that we were an EU citizen accompanied by a non-EU spouse. All papers in order, and next to the port authority for our Vignette or cruising permit. Again, all friendly and welcoming … and quick.
Then off down the coast 6nm to an anchorage at Dajla where we stayed for four nights getting back into cruising mode. There was a beach bar ashore along with a minimarket and café – all very nice.
We continued 9nm down the Istrian coast, calling at Porec where we took a mooring and explored the charming town and its 6th century Euphrasian Basilica, famous for its mosaics and Bishop’s Palace.
Then 16nm for one night at Ravinj, also on a mooring but fatigue caught up with us and we stayed onboard – the guidebook says the town is delightful.
Next, 21nm to Pula where we anchored in the north of the harbour in 4.8m in mud – great holding. We took the dinghy to the fuel dock by the main marina and for a few cans of beer, the attendants are happy for the dinghy to be tied up in the corner with the quay on the north side. The big draw is the 1st century CE oval Roman amphitheatre and it is quite impressive being the sixth largest of its kind still standing. Then there is the Temple of Augustus originally built around the 1st century BCE but bombed in 1944 and rebuilt stone by stone, and the 1st century BCE Arch of the Sergii – a gateway.
One of the star attractions is the Lighting Giants – the iconic cranes of the Uljanik shipyard are lit up at night in many different colour schemes. We had a perfect view. For us one of the other star attractions is the superb market for fresh fruit and vegetables as well as butchers and fishmongers. A great place to keep the provisions topped up.
Finally it was time to leave Istria and continue south and it was 42nm to the small island of Unije, where we found an excellent anchorage at Uvala Vovisca, arriving on Friday 15th July. The water was clear and it provided great shelter and holding in 25kts Bora wind. We took the dinghy to the muddy beach and found a goat track/footpath that led to a wider rocky track to the village on the other side of the island – a two hours round trip but rewarded by fabulous iced coffees in the village and some provisioning at the mini-market. Then onward to the south to Ilovik for one night on a mooring and more provisioning and a decent dinner ashore, and to an anchorage at Silba where we will stay for a few days.
Photos in the Gallery when we get better wifi.