Change of scene
04 September 2022
Phil Heaton
Whether it was in our own minds and we were projecting it is hard to say, but we did get the sense that once among these big and popular islands things became just a bit more grasping and frankly we were not particularly desirous of visiting very busy places with superyachts, ferry trippers and wall-to-wall cafes and restaurants. Some places charge for anchoring and that doesn’t sit well with us – clearly buoys need to be paid for, but paying to use your own tackle is a bit of a stretch.
Anyway, we identified good possible free anchoring at Stari Grad on Hvar island. Our first options at Luka Tiha were too busy, so we settled on anchoring to the east of the ferry terminal in 14 metres dropping back to 9 metres with 50 metres of chain. There was some localised wind blowing WNW into the bay but the holding was good and there was not too much wash from passing boats.
We met up with Roxy and Phil on SY SONDER, an American couple that we first met at Krka, and we had a very fun morning in Stari Grad with them and Roxy’s brother and sister-in-law. Roxy and Phil are part of a new breed of younger cruisers – digital nomads – who can work or run businesses remotely as long as they have a good wifi connection. We hope to see them again in Greece and possibly the UK.
Our guidebook says that Stari Grad is “a quieter, more cultured and altogether more sober affair than Hvar Town, its stylish and sybaritic sister. If you’re not after pulsating nightlife and thousands of people crushing each other along the streets, head here”. Yes, Stari Grad is our kind of town, and we had a superb lunch of traditionally cooked fish.
The following day, Sunday, brought a bonus from our anchorage as we were right at the pin end of the start line for a yacht race from Stari Grad. The yachts of varying classes but including some serious racing machines and it was really enjoyable to watch the pre-race manoeuvring and the actual start.
Gallery photos when we have better wifi.