Mainland havens
04 September 2022 | Mt Ilias
Phil Heaton
We toyed with the idea of visiting Korcula and Mljet, but again we were put off by the mooring options and so headed for Loviste at the western end of the Peljesac peninsula. This is a small, sleepy village with one shop and a few bars/restaurants but it provided a very large and secure anchorage with good holding and protection. It also provided an unexpected bonus when we found that there was a good hike to be had. Mt Ilja summits at 961 metres and we could get a taxi to the start of the trail near Nakovanj pass, not far from Loviste and this gave us a commencing height of 269 metres. It is a there and back route of 15km partly along a gravelled track, partly though steep and rugged karst, and partly through pine forest. The view from the top is superb. The round trip took us 6 hours including stops – it was very hot but a super hike. We had been advised to watch out for adders and viper but saw none. Highly recommended.
Where next? We have continued to an anchorage at Slano on the mainland, not overly far from Dubrovnik which we visited in 2004 and don’t feel the need to join the crush of visitors. Slano provided a large and safe anchorage – we are in 12.7 metres with 50 metres of chain as the forecast is for light winds only.
Our trip here from Loviste provided us with some of our best sailing in Croatia with a close reach along the Peljesac peninsula past Mljet with a F5/6 … for 17nm, until the nice big black cloud providing the wind dissipated and we were back to motoring for the last 18nm.
Slano is another sleepy village with a couple of shops and restaurants, a marina, an enormous hotel, and remaining evidence of its devastation by Serbian artillery in the 1992-3 war. This will be our jump off for Cavtat and outbound clearance in few days’ time.
Gallery photos when we have better wifi.