Our time in York and Northern Ireland flew by but it was great to catch up with family and friends, and we returned to Athens on Monday 15th July. We had a couple of nights in a hotel, and visited both old haunts and new places, and watched the Changing of the Guard at the war memorial. We found a great rooftop bar (MS Roof Garden) with a magnificent view of the Acropolis lit up at night. Lunch had to be in Monastraki at O Thanasis, first visited in 1973 by Phil and then in 1976 the two of us together. We ordered the Gyros which sadly were not as good as the were 50 years ago - like everywhere in Greece, they have started adding chips. We mentioned this when we had finished and they did kindly offer non-chip Gyros free, but by that stage we were too full. Next time we know to ask for no chips.

We took the coach back to Messolonghi and MINNIE B was fine, apart from a covering of Sahara red dust, which was quickly washed off.

We expected to leave after a few days of sorting and provisioning, but it was not to be. We had ordered some boat paint for delivery from the UK (ridiculously not available in the EU - no idea why as it is International Paints product) while we were in the UK. Unfortunately, DHL damaged the package and it had to be destroyed so replacements were sent, only to spend two weeks in Athens while DHL and Customs fiddled about. Our plan had been to head south and around the Peloponnese, but we decided it would be prudent to collect the paint. Instead of staying in Messolonghi we headed for Zakynthos (49nm).

Our first stop was Agios Nikolaos in the north-east where we tied up stern-to an our own anchor. It was good - free mooring, electricity if you needed it, water, laundry and wifi. Amazing. The only requirement was to eat at Dimitris's restaurant, which was actually quite good and not expensive.

We hired a car and toured the island - very, very busy with holidaymakers. The small monastery of Agios Georgios was quite charming with a tower and mosaics. We had thought of stopping at a few beaches and coves for a swim, but the car parking was horrendous. We settled for a recce of Keri beach as possible anchorage and a walk around Zakynthos town which exceeded expectations. The island has some quite dramatic scenery but is very much a holiday destination.

We sailed (32nm) down the west coast of the island and anchored at Keri for five nights - a pleasant place apart from the inconsiderate folk hiring small motor boats an driving through the anchorage at high speed. OCC couple Trip and Nicole von Hoffmann on Kalyra turned up and we spent a nice morning with them sharing information on places and OCC Port Officers.

On 7 August we returned to Messolonghi for the paint (60nm).

Plan A had been to go anti-clockwise around the Peloponnese, but having returned to Messolonghi we changed our minds and planned clockwise. Well, that didn't work out.

Leaving Messolonghi on Thursday 8 August we beat part of the way east off Patras and then passed under the marvellous Rio-Antirio Bridge, built for the 2004 Athens Olympics. Bridge Control is on VHF Ch14 and provide instructions on which span to pass under.

Our first stop was after 30nm at Nafpaktos - a really charming spot with Venetian fortifications and a tiny, fortified harbour which was filled by a dredging barge. We anchored to the east of the harbour, but It turned out that the holding was a bit patchy and when the wind went into the west we upped anchor and moved to the west of harbour where the holding was good.

Then on 16nm to the small island Trizonia where there is an underdeveloped harbour/marina and berthing alongside - there are several tavernas/restaurants but no provisions to be bought. We stayed five nights and managed a walk to the south side of the island. Temperature was mostly 35-40C, so lots of water and shade. But, hey-ho why not go back to Messolonghi since the forecast was for easterly winds in the Gulf of Corinth and then Meltemi in the Saronic Gulf and the east side of the Peloponnese. So we did, on 15 August, anchoring in the lagoon (38nm).

We met some nice Brit cruisers so it turned out to be quite sociable.

Which Plan version we were on no longer mattered but off we went to explore the west side of the Peloponnese and see how far we might get.

Killini was our first anchorage (30nm) - quite sheltered from N/NW wind behind the harbour close to the shore. Our 0.7m draft with keel up and rudder folded came in handy as we dropped in 2 metres - a change of wind direction overnight and we ended up in less than 1m. All was well.

Katakolon (32nm) was our first primary destination so that we could take the train to Olympia - we had delayed in Messolonghi to find a window in Katakolon when there would be no cruise ships and their thousands of passengers heading for Olympia.

Olympia is a marvel. In many ways it is another significant Greek and Roman ruin but it has been carefully excavated and there is a superb Archaeological museum housing such as the statues from the pediments to the Temple of Zeus and the Temple of Hera.

Then there was the weather forecast a storm cell heading for the southern Peloponnese. We had intended to go on to Pilos and Kalamata, but given the sea temperature, air temperatures, and what happened at Porticello, Sicily with the Bayesian sinking prudence appeared and we headed .... back to Messolonghi (56nm) with a lovely reach across the Gulf of Patras. We are experiencing thunderstorms, heavy rain and hailstones for an hour or two late in the afternoon and evening.

However, on Wednesday 28 August we drove to Diakopto and took the narrow-gauge rack railway which climbs 750 metres over 22km to Kalavrita, through the Vouraikos Gorge. We took the return train to Megalo Spilaio and then walked the remaining 12.5km to Diakopto. The route is either on the track itself, using the sleepers as stepping stones or beside it, and goes through tunnels and over bridges. Marvellous. A night and dinner at a small hotel in Diakopto rounded off a lovely trip.

Anyway, all is well, and we are planning to leave Messolonghi for ....


Photos to follow when decent wifi