30th May. We’re currently anchored at San Cristobal in the Galapagos. We took our time getting here as we wanted to go to Taboga and then cruise the Las Perlas Islands before setting off. Taboga was quite quaint and the islands did not disappoint us. We had deserted anchorages and tranquil conditions. I did try a spot of snorkeling but came out with some vicious jellyfish stings across my wrists and hips. Thank goodness I wasn’t skinny dipping otherwise it could have been the end of the world!


The high street at Isla Taboga


Isla Chapera, Las Perlas Islands where Survivor was filmed


Anchored at Isla Espirito Santos in the Las Perlas Islands


All the time though we had that 900 mile trip hanging over us so it was difficult to relax. We contacted a local weather router called Karsten about the best time to go. He basically said go any time as it was the rainy season and we would have weak to variable winds and would probably have to motor a lot. So be it then. Let’s go tomorrow!

Tomorrow (18th May) came along with a thunderstorm that narrowly missed us. The clouds soon cleared and we shot out of the Bay of Panama with a gentle norther pushing Phylis along at a decent 6 to 7 kts. If we can keep this up we’ll be there in four days, I mused. Alas it was not to be. On day three the current and wind reversed and so began a god awful plug into 15 to 22 knot headwinds and current. The seas built up into a nasty 6 to 8 foot chop that had Phylis bouncing around and quite often static in the water. Our average speed for the three days went down to 2.9 kts and I was getting seriously concerned about having enough diesel to complete the journey if these conditions prevailed.


Sunset on the first night of our 8 day trip


I’d like to talk a little about “these” conditions. Often cruisers gloss over the crappy bits and use euphemisms like “it was a rollercoaster ride”. This description infers fun and excitement, however if you were to spend three continuous days on the rollercoaster and also try to eat, sleep and poop without getting off then you understand that fun it isn’t. In fact it’s absolutely bloody awful. Of course we could always have quit, turned around and gone back to Panama to wait for the next season but we’re made of sterner stuff than that and after all things have to improve, don’t they?

Well things did get better. The further south we went the wind shifted to the SSE and ultimately to the SE (you were right Ron) and the current slackened meaning that we could motor sail quite effectively. The seas calmed down and for the remainder of the trip we glided along at a respectable 5 to 6 kts with a fairly stable boat. Suddenly our appetites came back and we were managing to get some sleep. Hey this passage making isn’t so bad after all! We even had company in the form of flocks of sea birds that followed our every move. Some even managed to perch on our bowsprit leaving copious amounts of bird crap behind all over the sprit platform.


Our hitchhiker, who left a nasty mess behind on the bowsprit


We had a fullish moon most of the trip and night time watches were quite special. The birds would ghost in and out of view with occasional large black Frigate birds swirling around amongst them, like the Dementors from Harry Potter; quite creepy really.

One incident occurred about half way. Out of nowhere a rusty looking fishing boat appeared off our starboard bow. I mean one minute it was all clear the next, there it was. It was towing five pangas behind it and appeared to be stopped in the water to let us pass. We sailed passed them giving them a hearty wave but the crew just stood and stared at us. After we passed, the boat started to follow us a few hundred feet astern. After about an hour they moved over and paralleled us on our port side. We were getting quite concerned. What were they doing? Sizing us up? Waiting for dark to attack us? We got out our water pistols and bear spray and waited. Happily, just before dusk, they peeled away to port and we saw no more of them.


Crossing the equator, one day to go…


Looking a bit the worse for wear as we cross the equator after 7 days at sea


On the morning of the eighth day at sea we made our anchorage at dawn at San Cristobal in the Galapagos. In fact I had spotted land the previous night as with a full moon I could easily make out the coastline as we glided down the west coast to the southernmost part of the island. What a relief, we had made it and I absolutely swear to whatever god you wish, I am never, ever, sailing to windward again!!!!


Made it! Now why is the land rocking so much??


The anchorage at San Cristobal

As a foot note, what amazed us was that we experienced none of the typical rainy season conditions. We never had light or variable winds. We never went through the doldrums. We had a constant 15 to 20 kt wind and pretty clear warm, sunny, conditions all the way although the night time temperatures did drop significantly. We did have a couple of casualties. The port navigation light decided to part company from its housing after a particularly nasty sea pounded the bow. The insipid air leak that causes the engine to die every now and then got worse and then for some reason got better. The aft head salt water inlet hose started to leak so we had to shut it down and use the very bouncy forward head. Just you try pooping when your arse is in freefall – it’s not pleasant!

The plan now is to kick back and relax, eat, sleep, drink and be merry, after all, we are in the Galapagos.