29th August, 2008

As per usual, we ended up motoring all the way to Monkey Beach but what a lovely anchorage it was, completely sheltered. There were three yachts anchored in the first bay but we went around a bit further and there were 7 of us anchored there Wednesday night and last night 6 of us. Wednesday was so hot and once anchored was in the water for a swim as quick as lightening. The days are certainly getting hotter now and we now have the fan going in bed every night as the temperature is still up in the late twenties even at night - mid thirties during the day with very little wind.

Yesterday morning by 10am I had made a loaf of bread, a fruit tea loaf and had bottled some bread and butter pickles which I made out of cucumber and egg plant. We then went in Catala's dinghy to TK Riung which was 2 miles away. Looked to be a very poor fishing village, but it did have a really good wharf which we tied the dinghy to. We ended up being taken around the village by a guy who could speak good English so he helped us with buying our fruit and vegetables as it is rather difficult finding out the price of things when they don't speak English and we don't speak Indonesian. We were going to have lunch there but on seeing an eating establishment we decided we would wait until we got back to the yacht. However it was just as well we didn't stay as the tide was going out and in places had to paddle rather than using the motor. The locals seemed to be intrigued with us and stood all around us listening to the conversation with this guy and wanting photos taken etc.

Had a couple of hours back on the boat and then went ashore to the little local village where one of the locals took us to their house and gave us a coconut drink and the coconut to eat from inside it. It was the grandfather and some of his family we presume and about a dozen little children whom we presume were his grandchildren. The children followed us everywhere and they laugh and laugh when they see the photographs on the screen of the digital camera. We took them jars, pens, pencils, some clothes etc. They are just so poor but it is amazing how happy they all are.

If you have ever seen photos of old Indonesian people you may have noticed that they have the most dreadful teeth. Well, we now know why. Once they are adults they chew on a nut called beetle nut which when chewed becomes red and turns their teeth red and is supposedly a type of stimulant and they all look as though they are wearing lipstick as well. To our minds it looks revolting but they just love it!! The young ones all seem to have good teeth though. Also needless to add is that we never saw any monkeys at Monkey Beach.

This morning we up anchored at 7am and are headed for Lingeh which is 32 miles from Monkey Beach. As per usual we motored for four hours and then the wind picked up so had a gentle sea breeze and got along at between 4 - 5 knots- very pleasant but once arrived (3pm) were inundated with locals wanting stuff but not prepared to trade, although two enterprising kids bought us some bananas and a coconut so gave them a t-shirt each. No matter how much stuff you have on board you can never have enough! Janine & I went to a 2nd hand shop in Darwin and got some stuff and also bought biros and school books. We certainly will up anchor pretty early in the morning and go, couldn't stand another day of the invasion like this. We just don't get any peace. They hit you up before the anchor is even down. Dave is going to add a bit to this.

With 117 yachts and listening to our morning sked (on HF) as we are too far spread for every one to hear on VHF, we are hearing of many problems among the boats! Many are Aussie boats offshore for the first time and some of the boats are not properly prepared for long distance cruising . Maybe we have been lucky that every thing has been going well on Pied A Mer. One or two boats have had the odd altercation with a reef or sandbar, but nothing too serious yet.

Certainly a lovely Country to cruise, 17,000 Islands must add up to 17,000,000 mostly pristine beaches, from the cockpit while traveling I can see at least 20 beautiful beaches. The only down side for us is we have not caught a fish since we left Australia. We hooked two simultaneously 100 miles off Kupang and lost them and have lost a couple of lures since, possibly catching a big fibre glass sack. A couple of boats have been lucky enough to catch a Spanish mackerel. The locals however seem to catch plenty although mostly smaller fish than we are after.

Of the several hundred miles we have covered there is a constant blue haze from the continuous fires here. Just grass or tussock fires which has burnt at least half the hills we can see. We have no idea why they light these fires as it all appears to be waste land. The few people we meet that speak any English come from the towns and don't know. Maybe it's just cigarette butts? Talking of cigarettes most roll their own with a thick flax like material that is so thick it has to be tied to hold it together. Zig zag won't make it here!

30-8-08: Wasn't able to get this through yesterday and last night so will try again this morning. Heading to Telok Bari this morning and will leave at 7am.