Gili Aer & Lombok
17 September 2008 | Teluk Kombal
Joanne
Thursday, 18th September, 2008
We ended up having a very pleasant sail to Gili Aer and had to drop the sails and motor for a few hours that night and then at 12.30am the breeze got up and we had a lovely sail the rest of the way until we dropped anchor at Gili (meaning small island) Aer at 7.45am and as we were going into the bay it was amazing being able to see the coral and beautiful fish under us. After we had had breakfast we had a visit from Barbara on Musketelle and then after lunch had a little rest before going across to the mainland on a catamaran (El Misti) to the venue for the Official Welcome by the Regent of Lombok.
The welcome ceremony was a very low key event as Lombok is predominantly Muslim and as they are in the middle of Ramadan certain procedures have to be observed. Food could not be served before 6.30pm and at this time there is no dancing. Had about three quarters of an hour of speeches and then they served dinner on banana leaves and woven cane plates. There was apparently quite a mix up over the whole thing so there wasn't a lot of food served but what we had was not too bad, even though a little hot. It was all over by 7.30pm.
Then the fun began!! Once on El Misti we then had to negotiate the reefs in the dark back to Gili Aer. Jen on El Misti accidentally turned the GPS off before the track was saved so we had no track showing us how to get back. It ended up taking 2 hrs to do the 2 miles back to Gili Aer with a few of us on deck with torches watching out for the reefs and the skipper relaying the depth information to them. Quite scary stuff and something on in a mono hull would not even attempt to do.
Next morning went ashore to get some fruit and veges as they have a little market there every morning. After which 12 of us went to a little restaurant for lunch that cost less than $10 for both of us.
That night Dave and I took a ride in a pony and cart (the only mode of transport on Gili Aer) and was dropped off at another restaurant as we were told the meals were superb. And what a meal we had - barbecued prawns which were 6 inches long and 6 each of them at a cost of less than $12 per person. They were beautiful. We sat at a table on a futon to have it looking out across the sea to a volcano which when the sun set was covered in a lovely pink haze - it doesn't get any better than that!! Gili Aer is just a delightful spot and would recommend it to anyone for a holiday. The snorkeling is great too but unfortunately the wind got up and wasn't conducive to snorkeling on the reef.
By Monday morning the wind was really up and looked to be increasing so we up anchored and headed across the strait the 2 miles to Teluk Kombal, which is on the mainland where we still are and relatively sheltered. It is unbelievable as since we have been here it has done nothing but blow. Catala also arrived in here on Monday morning so was good to catch up with them again and they had dinner with us that night, along with Dave from Sahula who had been sailing with them.
Tuesday Catala and us hired a car with a driver and a guide for the day and we took off at 8.30am First stop was in the National Park to see the monkeys and feed them. These monkeys are so friendly and they take the peanuts out of your hands and if you have your fingers closed over the peanuts they open your fingers up very gently one by one to get the peanuts!! Quite amazing and they are all shapes and sizes but there was definitely a pecking order!
From there we carried on into Mataram which is the capital of Lombok and about a 45 minute drive from here on pretty good roads and the scenery was lovely and very fertile and lush looking compared to the other islands we have been to.
We then headed to Immigration as before the end of the month we have to renew our Visas for another 60 days as one can only have a 60 day social visa and then we have to renew it for another 30 days at a cost of 532,000 rupiah each ($NZ85 approx.). We have to be out of Indonesia by 30th October. We could have got this done in Bali but decided to try here in order to give us a few more day around here. Destiny 111 and Purnama tried but were told they had to do it in Bali as they needed a sponsor. Was obviously who you got and the guy we got said he would sponsor us and to come back on Friday to pick up our passports with everything done.
We were then taken to a pottery place and they had amazing pottery and Lombok is well known for its pottery and weaving. Watched both pottery and weaving being done and I had a go at the weaving but what a complicated process when doing designs etc. Was quite fascinating to watch. We were taken to a nice place for lunch, which looked really expensive and wondered what it was going to cost!! Ended up costing $6 for both of us but as our driver and guide were Muslim they didn't come with us.
Visited the Kings Palace which was built in 1727 and which had a Hindu Temple but we could not go inside and we were taken around the grounds and there were several lakes and swimming pools which are spring fed. Also had rice paddies and there are 22 people working there.
Had a short visit to the Mataram Mall and it was just like any mall in NZ or Australia. There is a really good supermarket there so will go there on Friday to do a bit of a stock up on a few things and also come back through Senggigi which is the real tourist spot.
Mataram has a population of about 350,000 and is a fascinating place and in rush hour traffic it was a sight to behold. Motor bikes galore, cars and pony and carts and the odd cyclist who I reckon are taking their life in their hands!!
Finally arrived back at our anchorage at 5.45pm after a great day. We did a chuckle when our guide and driver stopped at 6.15pm and got out of the car and had a drink and came back to the car smoking. Couldn't wait any longer after having to abstain all day.
Yesterday was spent doing a fuel run and a few minor repairs, main one being having to rewire the fridge. Has been playing up a bit which has been caused by a lack of power getting to it so are having to run a new wire to it.
There appears to be two mosques in this village so the call to prayer happens about five times a day during Ramadan, starting at 3.30am with another one at about 5am. I hear it all, but Dave, being deaf, sleeps through it all!! They have it coming through loud speakers so you can hear it for miles.
This morning we went by pony and cart to the next town to the local market which is a few miles away. It was an interesting experience and the market was like being in a rabbit warren but we managed to get most things that we wanted. There is one price for the locals and another for the tourists!! We were the only white people there.
This afternoon was spent still trying to rewire the fridge but was not what we thought it was but at least we have it going.