Por Dos

Family cruising in a Catamaran

16 December 2017 | Brisbane
04 November 2015 | Brisbane, Australia
30 October 2015 | Isle de Pines, Noumea, New Caledonia
08 October 2015 | Tanna, Vanuatu
01 October 2015 | Viti Levu, Mololo, Fiji
21 September 2015 | Namena, Musket Cove Malolo, Vuda Point Viti Levu, Fiji
12 September 2015 | Vanua Levu and Taveuni, Fiji
02 September 2015 | Tonga
13 August 2015 | Suwarrow, Cook Islands
25 July 2015 | Tahaa, Bora Bora and Maupiti French Polynesia
17 June 2015 | Tahiti & Moorea, French Polynesia
16 June 2015 | Fakarava, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia
06 June 2015 | Tahanea, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia
01 June 2015 | Raiatea, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia
28 May 2015 | Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
12 May 2015 | Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
26 April 2015 | Academy Bay, Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz, Islas Galapagos, Ecuador
13 April 2015 | Panama to Galapagos
07 April 2015 | Balboa, Panama
31 March 2015 | Colon, Panama

Bonifacio: One of the most beautiful harbours in the Med.

26 August 2013 | Bonifacio, Corsica, France
Marta Portoles
After cousin Ingrid and family left us on Saturday, we waited a couple of days in Baia Reparata, Capo Testa, at the North tip of Sardinia, for strong West winds to subside.

Monday, we sailed to the French island of Corsica. A total of 10 miles across the Bonifacio Strait and 90 min or so later, we entered Bonifacio, a natural harbour. It is shaped as a deep, narrow inlet (but wide enough to accommodate a marina for 450 boats, many of them expensive super-yachts.) The inlet has vertical cliffs on both sides. The medieval town is on top of the outward cliff, looking at sea and protected by the walls of a citadel. It is truly spectacular.

We had called the marina and asked for their nightly fees. We had two choices: 190 euros a night in the main harbour or 40 euros a night to tied up to the cliff walls on the Calanque de la Catena, a little bay on the North side of harbor. The difference, you may ask? Well, the 190 euros gives you a dock and help from the marina crew to tie up your boat. With the 40 euros choice, you have no help and no dock. Guess which one we chose? Tying up to the wall of the Catena bay with wind gusts up to 25 knots from the side, was almost as exciting as getting caught on one of the mooring lines as we were leaving the Santa Teresa marina in Sardinia, and lying across the two boats on either side of us. In Catena, Alec and Roan jumped in the dinghy while Mark was holding Por Dos with the engines; a tricky maneuver due to the big gusts of wind coming down the cliffs. It took a couple of tries for Alec and Roan to find a suitable mooring line - these lines are often attached to big metal rings on the wall; from there, they run underwater all the way to a mooring block in the middle of the bay. Alec handed me the mooring line and I attached to the starboard bow cleat. Then, while Mark was spinning the boat to face the middle of the bay, we ran a starboard stern line to one of the metal rings on the wall. With the starboard side secured, we found a mooring line for the port bow and ran a port stern line to another metal ring. With Por Dos nicely secured, we jumped on the dinghy and went ashore to explore Bonifacio and treat ourselves to a French Corse dinner.

I will tell you more about our Corsican visit in a later blog, but let me digress here for a minute on the Mediterranean stereotypes - which, by the way, are all true. We have gone from the Spanish need for smalltalk to the Italian exuberant ways with their hands. From those two cultures, nothing can prepare you for the sharp and short ways of the French - you need to remember, they are doing you a favour by talking to you :-). No matter how you tried to phrase an open question with the idea of getting as much information as possible, you get "Oui", "Non", "C'est pas possible" or the dreaded "Je suis dessole, madam" which it translates into either "Please go away, I can't/won't do anything for you" or "I do not know the answer, but my culture forbids me to say that I do not know". Of course, I am referring at people in businesses and customer service; we have met plenty of nice Spanish, Italian and, yes, even French, sailors and non-sailors alike.

Vessel Name: S/V Por Dos
Vessel Make/Model: Catana 48
Hailing Port: Salem, MA
Crew: Mark, Marta, Alec & Roan
S/V Por Dos's Photos - Main
5 Photos
Created 11 October 2012
26 Photos
Created 3 July 2012


Who: Mark, Marta, Alec & Roan
Port: Salem, MA
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