Back to Turkey
23 September 2012 | Turkey
Jane, still warm and sunny
Whilst we were in Cyprus we headed down to the southern Greek side where we had a wonderful four days with our friends Jim and Elaine of “Jenna”, who very kindly lent us one of their cars so we could explore the area. It is very different from the north, the Greeks have been spending lots of money (yup our taxes) on the infrastructure, it is cleaner, newer, more touristy and a lot more expensive, even property is twice the price. We wonder if the two sides will ever become one, it is hard to imagine.
Back in northern Cyprus we spent a very interesting evening with David and Kathy of “Mashona” with their friends from Israel before returning to Ta-b. We had to delay our departure because of a public holiday long weekend, but it was worth it as we were treated to a spectacular air display that went right over Ta-b which broke the sound barrier as it did its aerobatics – wow nearly blew our eardrums off!! We also enjoyed the fireworks, and the navy who all stood on the decks to salute as they left the harbour.
We have never experienced heat like we did in Cyprus. Luckily we were at anchor most of the time where it was approx. 40 degrees by mid day and the water was a cool 33 degrees. On land apparently it was up to 45 degrees. So we were happy to leave the heat and head back to Turkey. We had a good sail most of the way to Alanya where we anchored off the marina, we were the only boat at night, but it was crazy during the day with all the gullets/pirate boats. After checking back into Turkey we linked up with Nev and Sarah of “TaraLee”, provisioned up, watched the opening of the Olympics, and then took off again for the ancient city and harbour of Side. A bit touristy, but a fun place to spend a few days.
Next stop was Tekirova a fantastic spot to anchor and explore the ruins of Ancient Phaselis. Yes we are nearly ruined out, but not quite. The backdrop of the mountains was stunning, the snorkeling was fantastic and and at night we were the only boats there with “TaraLee”. From there we went to Cineviz before heading into Ucagiz in Kekova Roads. What a delightful spot with restaurants all along the front for us to enjoy. At 15 TL for bream or bass with salad and chips, it was a no brainer (about $7) and the restaurant also does a free water taxi service.
Kekova Roads is an area under a preservation order. The site contains preserved ruins, above and below water, of numereous ancient Lycian settlements and tourism has remained fairly low key apart from the daily boat trips. The small village of Kalekoy is dominated by a castle which is worth the hike as the views were spectacular. We spent quite a few weeks exploring the many anchorages in the area including Karaloz, Sicak, and Gokkaya Limani where we had a lovely little bay all to ourselves which we shared with 2-4 turtles. We met up with “KintuKani” and “TynaTwo” and enjoyed a 66th birthday party ashore, the Turkish love to party and made a big cake and we ended up dancing the night away with the locals. We also took some old friends from England out for the day, we shared our favorite spot Aperlai with them. Mustafa put on a lovely lunch for us over the water, after we had walked and swam over the ruins in Asar Bay.
In Kas we caught up with lots of old friends. There is a fantastic market on Fridays and a delightful bay opposite called Bayindir Limani to anchor. There is a fantastic restaurant/beach in the SE corner where we tied up for a night, watered up and enjoyed a lovely dinner. Kas is a charming town and we had some great days and nights out. We can understand why quite a few of our friends have chosen this spot to winter over.
While we were in Kas we also spent some time over at the Greek island of Kastelorizo. Lots of charm as all the Greek islands have, but a tad expensive. We were also invited over to Kalkan for a night to stay with Vicky and her friends who we had had on the boat in Kekova. The house that she had rented was amazing, two pools, hot tub, media room, gym and stunning view – we felt like VIPs and had a fantastic evening with them in town.
It was now time to move on and leave this stunning area. After spending a few days in Kalkan, a delightful little town although a tad touristy with lots of English, we picked up our friend Derek and made our way to Gemiler and St. Nicholas Island (yes Father Xmas). We were surprised at how busy the area was, but still enjoyed ourselves and before we left had a fun meal ashore at Karacaoren where the snorkeling was great off the reefs.
Fethiye was our next stop where Derek left us to go to Marmaris and we spent time anchored off Yacht Classic Hotel/Marina. What a great place, they allow boaties to use their facilities and have a small dock where boats are only charged a minimal amount as long as they have dinner at their restaurant. Here we met up with Robin and John of p“Panthera” who we had not seen since Italy and their friends Alex and Ruth off “Lucky Lady Lucy”. Being New Zealanders we all got together with “Awatea” to watch the Tri Nations rugby and ended up as a large group in the evening, along with our friends Shirley and Andrew “Amazing”, at the fish market. Fethiye is known for its fish market, not only do they sell great fish, but they cook it. For 6TL per person ($3) you buy your fish and then take it to one of the many restaurants around the market who cook it and serve it with salad, bread/chips and special house sauces. Where else can you do that and at such a crazy price I wonder?
The sailing around Fethiye and Gocek is fantastic. The wind always comes up by noon and we have had some wonderful trips back and forth across the bay. So far it has always died down at night and we have enjoyed several anchorages with friends. The highlight a few days ago was our friend from Cape Town, Andre’s 60th birthday; which we celebrated at Yacht Classic with about 7 other boats. We had cocktails and appertisers on “Kintukani”, dinner at the restaurant and finally nightcaps of some South African liquor. A memorable evening for everyone and a fun EMYR reunion.
I have gone on a bit, well it has been a long time since our last blog I suppose.
The gallery pictures will tell you more with their captions – enjoy.