Bahia de Car�quez
Ecuador

Cruisers Handbook
Revised March, 2005

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. Bah�a de Car�quez
2. Transportation
3. Land Trips
-Ba�os
-Cuenca
-Guayaquil
-Latacunga
-Manta
-Otavalo
-Portoviejo
-Quevedo
-Quito
-Riobamba
-Salinas (Prov. Bol�var)
-Peru and Bolivia
4. Cruising Destinations in Ecuador
-Stella Maris Yacht Club
-Cabo Passado
-Manta
-Isla de la Plata
-Los Frailes/Machalilla
-Isla Salango
-Salinas/La Libertad (Puerto Lucia)
-Isla Santa Clara
-Galapagos

Acknowledgements: Contributors to this handbook: Marsha and Rick (SHE WOLF), Jan and Joe (CABIRI), Tripp and Maye (WALKABOUT ), Mike and Catharine (BREILA), Winona and Roy (SAUCY LADY), Terry and Gary (ISHI), Joe (MUSIC), John and Linda (HAWKEYE), Scott and Sonia (PEREGRINATA), Herman and Nancy (SEA TERN), Bob and Cheryl (NEW PASSAGE), Doug and Lisa (MAMOANA), Ronel and Claude (Prrrfection)

BAH�A DE CAR�QUEZ

Waypoints:

Approach (from north): 00� 36.6' S 080� 28.2' W - this keeps you away from shoals

"Waiting Room": 00� 35.8' S 080� 26.8' W - anchor or wait for pilot here for entry over bar. Open roadstead but relatively calm at most times of year.

Entry Procedures

Pilot required for entry (and exit) over bar of Rio Chone. Entry or exit only possible at high tide. Contact Port Captain to arrange on Channel 16, and if possible, pre-arrange with Puerto Amistad by email (PuertoAmistadEcuador@yahoo.com) or through SSB net and then VHF contact on Channel 69 to help coordinate with Port Captain. $30 charge payable to pilot ($20/boat if two boats entering at the same time, $15/boat for 3 or more).

Port Captain or assistant will come out to your boat for a brief inspection.

Check in with Port Captain after arrival and inspection (opposite Puerto Amistad dinghy dock).

It is necessary to travel to Manta by bus or cab within a week or so of entry to complete immigration procedures if entering Ecuador on an international zarpe. No immigration office in Bahia.

Services (partial listing only - new ones all the time!)

ATM / Bank - Banco de Pinchincha; Bolivar at Ascazubi; VISA, MasterCard, Plus, Cirrus. No access fee. Banco de Guayaquil; Bolivar at Riofrio; VISA, MasterCard, Plus, Cirrus. $1.50 access fee.

Alternator and Starter Repair - Taller de Electricidad "Bahia", Walter Mero. In Barrio Astillero, Av. Ibarra (past Policia building in Bahia, toward Leonides Plaza)

Copies - See Internet. Many other places in town as well - look for "Copias" signs.

DHL - #1115 Bolivar, in front of Banco de Pichincha. Also Western Union

Diesel - Repsol station on the Malecon or delivered to boat by Puerto Amistad

Dinghy Dock - Bahia Yacht Club (members and associates); Puerto Amistad ($25/month)

Long Distance Telephone - See Internet. Cheapest long distance rates.

Fed Ex - Guacamayo Tours is agent, Bolivar at Arenas.

Gasoline - Repsol station on the Malecon or delivery by Puerto Amistad

Groceries - Mercado Publico, on corner of Morales and Ante; 2 floors; fruits, veggies, meat, seafood, flowers. Micro Mercado Yanina, Mateus between Bolivar and Montupar; best selection in town. Many other tiendas.

Haircuts - Loly's, Bolivar 809 near Checa; cutting ($4), coloring, manicures, pedicures, facials; air-conditioned. Fanny's (on Malecon) ($2)

Hardware - Auto Repuestos Chavez, Ascazubi between Malecon and Bolivar, English spoken. J&H, next to Police behind Bus Terminal.

Internet - Systecom, Bolivar near Aguilera, English spoken; Genesis Net, Malecon across from Repsol, English spoken, Spanish language classes. Both have local and long distance phone booths.

Laundry - pick up and delivery by Puerto Amistad; Inquire at Auto Repuestos Chavez for lady who does laundry at home; Hostal Bahia B&B, 2nd floor reception (machine wash, line dry), $3 for LARGE bag; Blancanieves Lavanderia, Intriago y Plaza (machine wash and dry).

Pharmacy - numerous, all over town

Post Office - Aguilera, just off Malecon.

Propane -Puerto Amistad will get tanks filled in Montecristi. Takes 1-2 weeks, $8/10 lb. Tank). Can fill US style tanks.

Refrigeration Supplies - small cans of refrigerant (non-resealable) available from Auto Repuestos Chavez. Major supplier of large, relsealable cans of refrigerant, as well as compressors, copper tubing, and other refrigeration/air-conditioning supplies is Angloequatoriana, with shops in Manta, Quito and Guayaquil. Manta shop is at Av. 4 de Noviembre y Calle 118 (halfway between El Paseo Mall and Migracion, on the same side as Migracion. Tel. (05) 292-1097, email anglo3@ecua.net.ec

Restaurants-
- D'Camaron - delicious shrimp, low prices
- Muelle Uno - excellent food, especially parrillada, large portions. Higher prices than other parrillada places, but good value
- Chifa Lau - inexpensive and plentiful Chinese food
- Tropihelado - ice cream, hamburgers, papi-pollo, salichipapas
- Big Boy Robin - hamburgers, other fast food
- Pollo Dorado - great roasted chicken, $2 for a huge quarter plus sides
- LOTS of others!

Supermarkets (US style) - see Manta and Puerto Viejo

Taxis - Many regular and "Eco-Taxis" (tricycle cabs);

Travel Agencies - E Ceibas Tours, Bolivar and Checa, Luigi speaks English; Guacamayo Tours, Bolivar and Arenas; Bahia Dolphin Tours, Bolivar and Riofrio

Water - city water available at Puerto Amistad or Bahia Yacht Club dinghy docks, for cooking or cleaning, but not for drinking. Puerto Amistad will deliver 20 liter purified water to boat. Purified water also available many places in town.

Yacht Club - Bahia Yacht Club, associate membership $20/month, hot shower, pool, dinghy dock, fresh water (not potable), bathrooms, activities room available for parties or large projects, book and video exchange, manager Giovanni, treasurer C�sar.

Puerto Amistad

Moorings - $125/month

Dinghy Dock - lighted, gated, directly in front of Capitania de Puerto

Fresh Water - available at Dinghy Dock, non-potable

Clubhouse - bathrooms, showers, office, dinghy dock, restaurant and bar, cruiser resources room (Clubhouse is under construction and partially completed - check with Puerto Amistad for availability of specific services) Clubhouse services only (no mooring) is $25/month

Boat Services:

Diesel and gasoline delivered to boat in your jerry jugs or pumped from 65 gal. container - pump price plus $0.10/gal.

Laundry - pick up and delivery

Propane - pick up and delivery

Purified Water - in 5 gallon jugs, $1.75, delivered to your boat

Boat Services - Referrals Available

Boat sitting - air out, run engine, etc.

Bottom cleaning - Ken on LINDA LEE, $1/foot

Polish stainless and hull

Sand and varnish

TRANSPORTATION

Eco-Taxi

The least expensive way to get around Bahia is the pedicab or "Eco-Taxi" - great for getting your mercado purchases down to the dock or laundry to and from the lavanderia. $0.50.

Taxi

Yellow taxis, $30-35 all day, Fernando's pick-up truck ($35 all day); Roberto's taxi, 269-0233 or 269-0037 ($30-35 all day); Margarita Lopez Quiroz, 239-9394 or 09-754-5374 ($30 all day)

Bus

Local Bus - around town, $0.18, no change given

Buses to and from Bahia de Caraquez

Puerto Viejo - $2.25, 2hrs.

Manta - Change buses in Puerto Viejo, $0.90/ 30 minutes. (Some buses with no change required in Puerto Viejo - check at bus station for times)

Guayaquil - Executivo class, reserved seats, bathroom, air-conditioned with movies, $8, 6 hrs. Seats in front row have less legroom. Reina de Camino. 9:30am among others.

Quito - Reina del Camino, Executivo class, air-conditioned with movies, comfy seats, 8-9hrs. day (9am, $9, arrives about 5:10pm), or overnight. Goes through Chone (buy food and drink here) and Santo Domingo. Day bus stops for almuerzo at about 1:45pm, but not recommended. Driver side of bus has best view going TO Quito; right side on the return trip. Arrives Terminal Terrestre on south side of town.

Ferry Service to San Vicente

Passenger Ferry (Panga) - from Muelle 1, $0.30/person

Car Ferry - passengers ride free

LAND TRIPS

Bahia de Caraquez and Vicinity

La Tortuga "Miguelito"

Museo de Bahia de Caraquez

Excellent regional museum, concentrates on local north-western Ecuador pre-Columbian cultures. On Malecon in Banco Central building. Also includes art gallery featuring local artists and exhibits which change monthly, museum shop, library, restoration and research area. $1 entrance to museum, library free (use side door). Closed Mondays. Tour available in English (worthwhile to arrange, as exhibits are all labeled in Spanish) from Jacob Santos (museum director) or Carlos, his assistant.

Chirije Archeological Site

This site, about 15km from Bahia on the coast, is owned by Bahia Dolfin Tours, who have developed a small "eco-resort" on the premises. Day trips to the small museum, archeological digs, hiking through the property and along the beach are available, as well as overnight or multi-day visits. The day trip is $15/person, and includes transportation and a delicious lunch. Because the site is accessible only by driving along the beach, day visits are limited to 3 hours on each side of low tide. Potshards, other pre-Columbian remains, and fossils are literally everywhere. Anything found on the property must be turned in to the owners. However, anything found OFF the property, such as on the beach, are yours to keep. You need a group of 6 people minimum for the $15 rate, altho you may be able to join another tour group if you can't find enough cruisers. Inquire at Bahia Dolfin Tours or with Jacob Santos at the museum, who often acts as a guide.

San Vicente

Sosote

Local source for inexpensive tagua nut jewelry and decorative items (most $1-$5). Will sell loose beads as well as finished items. Shops arrayed on both sides of the road from Bahia to Puerto Viejo. Several lunch spots; the restaurant on the left side of the road after the last tagua workshop as you go toward Puerto Viejo is clean, good selection of local dishes, TV, hammocks to sleep off your lunch, and clean bathrooms. Take bus from Bahia to Puerto Viejo but check with driver or ayudante that it passes through Sosote. On return trip, catch bus to Bahia.

Montecristi

See Panama Hats being made

Isla de Corazon

Mangrove island, bird watching. Tour with guide through tour agencies in town, or dinghy yourself up the river.

Ba�os

Transportation:

Quito to Ba�os: Ejecutivo, $3, 3-1/2 hrs. Interesting scenery - view of several volcanos, including Cotapaxi.

Latacunga to Ba�os: $2, 2hr.; direct or change in Ambato

Ba�os to Riobamba (via Ambato): $2, 2hr., every 2 hours or so.

Places to Stay:

Hostal Plantas y Blanco: Martinez, near 12 de Noviembre. Rooftop terrace with cafeteria, honor bar, lounges for sunning, books and games, steam bath, laundry. Guests can use kitchen during off hours. Pleasant rooms with plants and artwork. GREAT breakfasts. Choice of shared or private bath with hot water. $4.50-$7.50pp. Popular. Tel 03-274-0044. Email: option3@hotmail.com

Hostal Hospedaje Santa Cruz: Calle 16 de Diciembre near Martinez. Fireplace, tropical garden, games, self-service drinks, movie library, private baths with hot water. $5 - $7pp. Tel. 03-274-0648.

Residencia Hostal (name not known) across from Santa Cruz upstairs (NOT the one above Restaurant Good). Nice room with shared bath $4; also furnished apartment on top floor, spacious, 2 bedrooms, kitchen, living/dining room, bathroom, $25/day.

Hostal El Oro: Calle Ambato y Mera, Tel: 740-513. $4 pp. Small room with private bath, hot water, full breakfast included, and really nice owners.

Hostal Isla de Ba�os: Haflants 1-31, Tel: 740-609, $8 pp, continental breakfast, nice double room, knowledgeable owner.

Hotel Santa Clara: $36dbl.

Places to Eat:

Tienda Alex: food tienda, Calle 16 de Dicembre (across from Santa Cruz). Owner Alex speaks english. Very helpful.

Restaurant Good: to right of Tienda Alex - mixed reviews - some people had good food, others awful food and service; 2-hr. machine laundry service.

Restaurant TJ's: to left of Alex (TJ is Alex's brother) - excellent breakfast and free internet while waiting for meal.

Caf� Mariane: okay food - VERY slow service.

Casa Hood: on Martinez, tasty foods, real coffee and espresso, and old movies in English nightly. Same person owns Caf� Hood, with slightly different menu.

Caf� Tecuba: excellent, freshly made Mexican food.

Bella Italia: delicious Italian food and pizza, happy hour 2 for 1 drinks, including house wine.

Bar Mocambo: Alfaro between Ambato and Oriente, cable TV with ESPN for you sports fans

Quilombo: Av Montalvo and 12 de Noviembre. Argentinian restaurant whose house wine is in fact from Argentina and very drinkable Sit near the kitchen as the chef uses a wood stove and lots of alcohol so the flames make quite a spectacle. Order a steak.

Things to Do:

- Jungle Trip: Recommended tour agency Sixto Perez/ Conquistour Expeditions, Calle Ambato y 16 Dicembre. Wildanimal45@hotmail.com. Friendly, professional, good English. One and multi-day jungle tours. One day trip included hiking, canoing, swimming at waterfall, lunch by river, Indian village visit, for $30pp.

- Piscina el Salado baths - short hike (about � hour). Okay but crowded, even on a week day, and not very hot.

- Mountain biking on the road to Puyo. Fabulous. Take a rain jacket - even if it is sunny - as the waterfalls at Pail�n del Diablo are very wet. Lots to stop and see. Cable car across at the first waterfall ($1 each), hike down to cross the suspension bridge and hike back up. Trout restaurants (catch your own if you want) on the waterfall side (wear long pants or take bug spray for the restaurants, as ravenous little mosquitoes LOVE the trout ponds). Further down the road, the walk to Pail�n del Diablo waterfalls is spectacular. Privately-owned trail at the end to goes out over the falls ($0.50 pp) really worth it - pays for the family to maintain the trail. Have a drink at La Otra Lado, across the small suspension bridge. Many bike rental places, all $4 to $5, including helmets, lock, extra inner tube and pump. Among others, can rent from hostal (El Oro), Roca Mysteriosa Travel Agency. Check condition of bike (shifting, eg.) and seat and handlebar adjustments before leaving town. Catch a bus or friendly truck for the trip back uphill.

- Basilica - "miracle" paintings.

- Waterfalls -walk around town, and visit the waterfalls there.

- View from La Virgen del Agua Santa statue above town. Trail begins one block west of hospital on Montalvo. Look for green hiking trail sign. Follow sign for one block, then turn right to the edge of the cemetary where you will see steps leading up.

- Museo de Mi Pueblito - just outside of town on the road to Puyo - walking distance. Memorabilia and local art in an old aguardiente distillery.

- Galerie Huillacuna - Ecuadorean paintings, sculpture and jewelry, Montalvo y Vieira

- Zoo San Martin - excellent small zoo with Ecuadorean animals in natural setting - condors, spectacled bears, tapirs, monkeys, etc. Buses go direct to zoo from downtown. Zoo is outside of town, just across Puente San Martin.

- Quad Runners to climb the road up Volcan Tungurahua to Pondoa - $8-15 per hour, depending upon size. Great views. 150cc ($10/hr) was ok for two people, up the mountain road.

Cuenca

Transportation:

Bus between Guayaquil and Cuenca has two routes, same line. More scenic route with mountainous views and steep climb is through PARQUE NACIONAL CAJAS. Bus runs every 35-40 minutes. Ejecutivo class $7, 3-1/2 hours.

Riobamba to Cuenca: $6, 6 hrs., approx. every 2 hours.

A taxi from the bus depot will take you to the town center.

Places to Stay:

Americano. Tamariz 1-14 y Ave. Heroes de Verdeloma. Tel. 07 283-7882 Casa of Francisco and Sandra. BRAND new room on the second floor with private bath for $12pp. (Long) Walking distance to town. Quiet. They were helpful with bus schedules, side tours, restaurants and such.

Hostal el Monasterio, Padre Aguirre 7-24 (opposite San Francisco mercado), tel: 824-457. $7 pp, large rooms, double beds, TV, hot water, very clean, good safe location. Dorm rooms with shared bath less. TV lobby, kitchen and lunchroom. Rooms scattered around several floors of an office building.

Posada del Angel, Gran Colombia at Toral, $33 dbl, incl. continental breakfast. It is a really nice place, a restored colonial home.

Hostal Macondo, Tarqui 11-64 y Lamar, $17 dbl, shared bath including tax and continental breakfast. Only a couple of rooms with private bath ($24 dbl). Lovely old house with large garden, QUIET but still near center, rooms vary in size, but all extremely clean, well-maintained, lots of plants and artwork, shared bath was cleaned at least 4 times per day and never a problem. Safe location, friendly and helpful. Highly recommended!

Hotel Atahualpa, Sucre 3-50 and Tomas Ordenez. Good hot water, quiet, TV, and big rooms.

El Cafecito Hostal/Restaurant, Vasquez 7-36. Dorm rooms $4pp around interior courtyard, rooms with private bath $7pp around a garden. Popular restaurant with music til 11pm each night.

Places to Eat:

Caf� Austria: Malo 5-45 - Austrian style cakes and coffee

Caf� Eucalyptus: Gran Columbia 9-4 y Malo. International tapas and bar. Midweek Happy Hour specials good. Wednesday and Saturday nights ladies drink for free!

WunderBar - for a great almuerzo. Gets noisy at night, though.

Grecia Restaurant: Gran Columbia y Aguirre - only a couple of greek items on the menu but tasty, good paella

La Lucia: looked nice, but very uneven. Service confused, some items overpriced for what you got. Pasta tasty (once it arrived).

Raymipampa: under colonnade, next to Cathedral. Large portions, good prices.

Hari Krishna: vegetarian Pizza parlor a block from Hostal El Cafecito on Jaramillo.

Moliendo Caf�: Colombian food, on Vazquez 6-24 y Miguel

Things to Do:

In Town:

- Museo de las Culturas Aborigenes - Calle Larga #5-24 Between Miguel and Cueva. Exhibits of all major Ecuadorian aboriginal cultures.

- Museo de Banco Central - art and archeology, Cuenca history, Inca ruins and garden

- Museo de Artes Populares - traditional native crafts and costumes

- Flower Market - in front of church of El Carmen de la Asuncion

- Tourist Center - free maps

- Barranco Panama Hat Factory: Calle Larga 10-41 between Torres and Aguirre. Museum, store, wine bar, art gallery, workshop, best prices.

- Homero Ortega Panama Hat Factory: Gil Ramirez Davalos. Good tour, larger selection of styles, but considerably higher prices than Barranco, and out of town by the bus terminal.

- Alberto Pulla Hat Factory: Tarqui near Calle Larga. An older-timer who makes the indigenas hats - all the same style, painted with sulphur to shape them, thus he has lost his voice.

- Mercado: shop for crafts - bargain hard - get some excellent deals.

- Casa de la Mujer: Torres, between Cordoba and Sucre (near San Francisco Market) - many indoor craft booths

Out of Town:

- Ba�os - smaller version of the town described above, 5km southwest of Cuenca; sulfurous hot springs with public pools and restaurants

- Gualaceo-Chordeleg-Sigsig - Famous for Sunday markets. Can make bus trip to all markets and return same day.
- Chordeleg: Shop the jewelry stores around the plaza - mostly gold jewelry; Joyeria El Brillante on Juan Bautista Cobos y 24 de Mayo, corner of Parque Central. Owner Carlos Lopez - specialist in gold jewelry; very friendly and speaks good English. Museum on the square is free. Las Ruinas Llaber: a mile walk from the square An unprotected archeological site, a hill with rock walls, overgrown with grass and wildflowers with a nice view of the city and of the surrounding hills.

- Principal - tiny highland town (take bus from Cuenca to Chordeleg, then another bus to Principal). Stay in Hostal Anabel (dorm rooms). Simple meals available.
- Local guides available to El Chorro de Principal Waterfall.
- Horseback ride to Los Dos Encuentras Rios $11. Wouldn't recommend this for a large group. These were workhorses, not used to being ridden and not used to being around each other. The saddles were wooden with metal stirrups hung on rope; the bridles rope with no bit in the mouth so it was hard to make a point with the horse. Rode to a beautiful spot for a picnic. Then, hiked back to the horses and continued over hill and dale, sometimes on a rocky, muddy and precipitous trail, so narrow at times that our feet were knocked out of the stirrups. We were glad for the rubber boots we rented for 60 cents. Many times the horses slid and tripped on the wet rocks. Donkeys might have been better for this ancient trail, the path the Ca�ari people used before the Inca civilization
- Hike to Los Tres Lagos. Very strenuous. Beautiful spot but more of a mountain climb than a hike.
- Ingapirca Ruins - most important Inca site in Ecuador. 1km from bus stop in village of Ingapirca. Don't miss the hiking trail. Guides available on site (Spanish and sometimes English) - free if you just stand and listen, extra fee to walk the ruins with you. Guided tour arranged through Expediciones Apullacta (Gran Columbia 11-02 y Torres) for $35pp (plus $6 park fee), including English speaking guide, transportation, lunch. Guide, Juan Carlos Brito, is an independent and can also be contacted directly for tours at 09-423-0672 (cell).

It is possible to stay at the ruins. Hostal Ingapirca is NOT recommended. There is at least one newer hostal which looked good.

- Walk up to El Turi church on a hill on the other side of the river. Walk up Av. Fray Vicente Solano, cross Av. 24 de Mayo to the base of 450 stairs. At the top a plaza with a grand lookout over the city, a cafeteria and a tourist shop

- E. Vega Galeria/Taller, Via a Turi 201 frente al PAI - ceramic workshop and showroom, in town of Turi, overlooking Cuenca. Beautiful work and reasonably priced. Sr. Vega came out to greet us. Walk up as described above. We were taken by our guide after tour of Ingapirca.

Guayaquil

Transportation:

Guayaquil to Bahia: Reina del Camino, Ejecutivo class, $8, movie, about 6 hours. 11:30am is directo,

Bus between Guayaquil and Cuenca has two routes, same line. More scenic route with mountainous views and steep climb is through PARQUE NACIONAL CAJAS. Bus runs every 35-40 minutes. Ejecutivo class $7, 3-1/2 hours.

Taxi from Terminal Terrestre to downtown $3 or $4. Taxis tend to be expensive, overcharging is common.

Places to Stay:

Hotel Rizzo, Ball�n 319, tel: 232-7140. $20 dbl, with private bath, continental breakfast. hot water, cable TV, fan in small, interior room, double bed, good pillows and sheets, clean and comfortable, tho a bit worn. Larger rooms with a/c are $30-$40 dbl. ASK for $20 rooms. Near the malec�n and parque Bol�var, safe to walk day and evening.

Hotel California, Urdaneta 529. $24 dbl., hot water, private bath. Check with desk re which streets are safe for walking after dark.

Pacifico Hosteling, Escobedo 811. $7pp, hot water, private bath.

Hotel Ecuahogar, Av. Ayora, Sauces 1, Mz. F-31. $18 dbl with shared bath or $25dbl with private bath, hot water, continental breakfast. Discount for Hostelling International members. Near airport and terminal terrestre - handy if you are just staying over to catch a plane or bus.

Hampton Inn, Av. 9 Octubre. $60 dbl , plush"American Style" hotel with all the amenities, bountiful breakfast buffet, and airport van. A couple blocks from the Malecon. Free airport pickup and delivery - and to the terminal terrestre if they aren't busy.

Places to Eat:

Hotel Rizzo has a restaurant - somewhat pricey for what you get, but convenient

Bongo Burgers: an old-fashioned soda fountain downtown on Nueve de Octubre near Chimborazo.

Tipo Don Rico's - Escobado near 9 de Octubre

Things to do:

- Walk the Malec�n - try the whispering wall at the rotunda, visit the botanical garden, and see the Eiffel-built crystal palace - open 7am to midnight, heavily patrolled by police, very safe and clean. Exercise area, underground shops, and restaurants both below and above, lots of locals and kids out for a stroll, particularly on weekends.

- IMAX theatre at the north end of the Malec�n - several choices of IMAX films showing afternoon and evening every day

- Climb steps up Las Pe�as and walk along the colonial street of Calle Numa Pompillo Llona

- Artisan's market, just past the Crystal Palace at south end of Malecon

- Tour of research ship "Orion", Navy dock on Malecon.

- MAAC (art & archeology museum), north end of Malec�n, includes a theatre - this is the new home of the Banco Central Museum.

- Parque Bol�var with 50 or so land iguanas (daytime only - they sleep in trees at night)

- Cathedral, on Parque Bol�var

- Parque Hist�rico Guayaquil - Via Samborond�n, Av. Esmeraldas y Av. Central, on the island between the airport and Duran. Cab $4-6. Can be reached by bus, but requires a change. - small zoo, reconstructions of period buildings, hacienda, campesino home. English speaking guide is part of entrance fee.

- Museo Municipal - history of Guayaquil, archeology and shrunken heads!

- Naval Museo (free) - Malec�n Simon Bolivar y Clemente Ball�n open 8:15 - 12:00 and 1:00 - 4:00

- Black Market (Thieves Market) - across the street from the south end of the malec�n; rows and rows of booths selling electronics, CDs, T-shirts and stuff

-Shopping for Boat Parts:
- HIVAMAR, Av. Marengo, Km 2.5 y Casilla - huge importer of bearings
- Commercial Alarcon, 1714 Eloy Alfaro - large ferreteria, some marine items
- Pescaequipos, 1516 Alfaro - mostly fishing gear
- Other marine stores on Alfaro, Argentina and San Martin
- IMPROMAC, 2014 Alfaro y Columbia - hydraulic hoses
- Angloequatoriana de Guayaquil, Chimborazo y Argentina - refrigeration supplies

- Mall del Sol - Number 2 bus from the Malec�n to the airport stop. Cross busy street and walk two blocks. Expensive stores, 99-cent store, food court, seven MOVIE theaters

Latacunga

Transportation:

Quito to Latacunga: Bus passes Volc�n Cotopaxi

Quevedo to Latacunga: Tansportes Cotopaxi, $4, 6hrs., hourly departures. Wonderful scenery; road passes through tropical forest, cloud forest, and over Param� at 12,000'.

Latacunga to Ba�os: $2, 2hrs., direct or change in Ambato

Taxi from Terminal Terrestre to town center for 4 people and luggage was $2

Places to Stay:

Hotel Central: entrance on Orellana, just north of Parque Vicente Leon. Shares building with Hotel Cotopaxi, whose entrance faces directly onto the Parque. $15 dbl. Friendly owner. Breakfast $2.

Places to Eat:

Pizzeria Bon Giorno - Orellana y Maldonado. Pizza, pasta and salads. Good food, reasonable prices.

Things to Do:

In Town:

Out of Town:

- Sunday markets in Pujil� - colorful produce and some crafts

- Thursday market in Saquisili - mostly local stuff

- Quilotoa circuit for the spectacular scenery and walks - there are a number of small villages that form a circle, including Saquisili, Zumbahua, Quilotoa, Chugchilan and Sigchos. You head west on a bus from Latacunga to Zumbahua and then onto Quilatoa by bus or pick-up truck. Small, simple hotels in Zumbahua (basically the home of an indigenous family). Cabanas Quilatoa was recommended in Quilatoa - VERY basic, fireplace in room but toilet was an outhouse (3-holer). See Crater Lake in Quilatoa; hike or rent horses. Bus or hike (difficult but rewarding) from Quilatoa to Chugchilan. In Chugchilan, recommended are Hostal Mama Hilda, Black Sheep Inn, and Cloud Forest Inn. Travel by bus on some days, or by pick-up truck (literally the "milk run" - picking up and delivering mile and propane) to Sigchos.

Manta

Places to Eat:

Bar Mama Rosa - Reyes y Perimetral, Barrio Umi�ia, Frente al Parque. Pizzeria y Parrillada. Tel. 05-262-6076. Email: mamarosa@latinmail.com

Things to Do:

- Immigration: office behind Policia Nacional building, second floor (ask Guard in booth near driveway entrance). Initial entry into Bahia de Caraquez by boat (3 months) - get passport stamped and tourist card, $15/person. As of Oct. 2004, CANNOT provide visa extensions - must go to Quito for 1 month extension.

- El Paseo Mall: modern, enclosed mall, with food court on second level. Large "Mi Commisariato" supermarket, Ace Hardware store, etc. Discount store (reportedly best liquor prices) across the street from the mall. Supermaxi supermarket near new hotel area downtown.

- Malecon: stroll along the wide, white-sand beach, studded with windbreak enclosures. Many restaurants.

- Museo de Banco Central:

- Yacht Club

- Boat Supplies and Repair:
- Refrigeration supplies: Angloequatoriana de guayaquil; Av. 4 de Noviembre y Calle 118 (halfway between El Paseo Mall and Migracion, on the same side as Migracion. Tel. (05) 292-1097, email anglo3@ecua.net.ec

Otavalo

Transportation:

Quito to Otavalo, Transportes Otavalo or Transportes Los Lagos. 2.5hrs., $2, leaves from the downstairs part of Terminal Terrestre at frequent intervals. If you have arrived in Quito on day bus from Bahia, you may be able to catch the 5:15pm departure.

Otavalo to Quito - sit on right side of bus for best views

Taxis in Otavalo are $1.

Places to Stay:

La Luna: 4.5km south of Otavalo. Restaurant, movies, rooms with fireplace, live Andean music Saturday nights. Rooms with private bath, as well as camping, dorm and shared bath rooms. $2-$9pp. Guided hikes to Mojanda Lakes, can arrange horseback riding and mountain biking. Tel. 09-973-7415. Taxi to town $3. Free pick up for stays of 2 nights or more until 6pm.

Hostal Santa Fe: Calle Roca 7-34 near G Mareno. Tel (062) 923 640. $7pp. Hot water, TV, big rooms.

Hostal El Geranio: Ricuarte, between Morales y Colon. Tel (06) 2920-185. $5pp, hot water, private bath, pleasant rooms, comfy beds, breakfast included. Kitchen and laundry service available, inexpensive guided tours. A real family atmosphere. Convenient to all markets and downtown.

El Valle de Amanecar: "Not Recommended", per CHAMELEON and CABIRI

Places to Eat:

Shenandoah Pie Shop - Poncho Plaza

Cafeteria Bogota Plaza - a pie shop, on Sucre 12-03 near Morales. Good coffee and breakfasts

Restaurante Il de Roma - Montalvo 4-44 y Bolivar. Part of Hostal Do�a Esther. Good Italian food, brick oven pizza, lovely setting off central courtyard of hostal. Mid-range prices.

Pizza Restaurant - C. Mareno, around the corner from Cafeteria Bogota, great pizza with real mozzarella cheese

Things to Do:

In Town:

- Animal Market - must get there early - over by 8 or 9am.

- Saturday Markets - THE BEST!! Walk into town early to watch setting up. Many indigenes sell at this market. Bartering is EXPECTED - early morning and late afternoon prices are best (tour groups come mid-day).

Out of Town:

Peguche Cascade - Head out of town in a N/NE direction and veer to the
right after you pass the bus terminal so that you are walking with the gum tree
hill to your right. You will see the old railway track which you will walk on until it veers sharply left through the corn fields. Walk up the hill and where it T's turn right towards a German sponsored school and follow the track to the waterfall. When you come back walk up the road for about 45 minutes for a great view of the valley and Otavalo.

Tour to Cotacachi, and on to Laguna de Cuicocha which is in the bowl of a crater. This is a beautiful area at 3350m and there is a hostel there for those that may want to spend a tranquil night or two. Condors can be seen in the morning and there is a well maintained walking circuit that takes in the hundreds of botanical plants as well as views of the looming Volcano Cotacachi,4940m, and the lake. On a clear day you can see 8 of Ecuador's volcanoes from this spot. (www.lospinosdecuicocha.com or email
Jorge@lospinosdecuicocha.com, tel 593-9-9001516).

Portoviejo

Transportation:

Bahia to Portoviejo: see Bahia
Portoviejo to Quevedo: Transporte Reales Tamarindos, 12noon and 8pm, $5, 4 hrs.
Transportes Sucre, 11:45am and 5pm

Places to Eat:

Food court in El Paseo Mall (see below)

Things to Do:

El Paseo Mall: modern, enclosed mall, with food court on second level. Large "Hipermercado" supermarket, hardware store, department store, etc. Multiplex cinema.

Quevedo

Transportation:

Portoviejo to Quevedo: Transporte Reales Tamarindos, $5, 4 hrs, 12noon and 8pm,.
Transportes Sucre, 11:45am and 5pm

Quevedo to Latacunga: Transportes Cotopaxi, $4, 6hrs., hourly.

Taxi to centro $1

Places to Stay:

Hotel Ejecutivo Internacional - 7 de Octubre #214 y Cuarta, $15dbl. Color cable TV, cold water, mini-frig, a/c. Some street noise at night. Friendly. Restaurant next door for breakfast ($1.25)

Places to Eat:

Chifa Peking: 7 de Octobre. Good, inexpensive food

Things to Do:

Early morning produce market along Rio Quevedo

Quito
Transportation:

Bahia to Quito: see Transportation section under Bahia. Sit on driver's side (left) for best view.

Quito to Bahia: Reina del Camino, Ejecutivo Bus, $7.50, 8-9 hrs. There is an overnight bus, which departs at 11 pm from Reina del Camino's North Terminal (Larrea & 18 de Sept.) and gets to Bahia about 6am. Comfy seats, bathroom. Day bus leaves from Terminal Terrestre in old town at 10:30am ("normal" class); sit on RIGHT side for best view. Price the same as night bus.

From Terminal Terrestre to Mariscal Sucre Tourist Zone: take taxi ($3-4), or take Trole (trolley) up Av 10 de Agosto. Taxi less from North Terminal to Mariscal Sucre.

Places to Stay:

New Town (Mariscal Sucre)

In general, Rodriguez St. in "New Town" Mariscal Sucre has many decent hostals of varying prices and is quiet, being "semi-pedestrian".

Loro Verde - Rodriguez 2241-231. $17 double. Spacious rooms with private bath. Breakfast extra ($1.40 continental, $1.70 American with eggs)

Arco del Sol Inn - Rodriguez 7-36. $25 double. New place, comfortable rooms with private bath, hot water, TV, "American" breakfast included in price. Sitting room with cable TV and DVD player.

Hostal La Galer�a - Calam� 233. $4-8 pp, nice big rooms, hot water, TV, relatively clean, safe area at night. Real backpacker-ish, though.

Hostal La Vanessa - Wilson. $5pp, rooms dark and unattractive, smoking patio, cable TV with some English movie channels.

Magic Bean - Foch 681, above restaurant of same name, which has great coffee. Wonderful breakfast included.

La Casona de Mario - Andalucia 213. Attractive old house with garden. TV lounge, laundry and kitchen privileges. Shared baths.

Hostal Amazonas Inn - Joaquin Pinto 471 y Amazonas. $20 dbl. Hot water, TV, hard beds, cafeteria and relatively handy to old town. Tel (593-2) 2225-723.

Casa Sol - Calama 127 - B&B with airy courtyard. Price includes breakfast. (mid-range)

Old Town:

Hotel San Francisco de Quito - Sucre 217 y Guayaquil. $28 double. Historic old hotel in an attractive colonial building with a courtyard. Clean, comfortable, carpeted room with private bath, hot water, TV, "American" breakfast included in price. Convenient to center of old town and within walking distance of Terminal Terrestre, but secure and quiet.

Hotel Internacional Plaza del Teatro - Guayaquil N8-75 y Esmeraldas (Plaza del Teatro). $9pp. Private bath with hot water. In a large old mansion, somewhat funky lobby but much renovation in rooms, especially elegant new bathrooms. Airy, spacious outside rooms have balconies and windows overlooking street . Interior rooms less attractive but quieter. Caf� on site.

Places to Eat:

New Town:

Bhuoos: on Rio Amazonas y Colon - nice restaurant, bacon and omelet breakfast for $5; somewhat pricey but good Mexican food for dinner.

Magic Bean: Foch 681 - great coffee and breakfast

Mango Tree Caf�: Foch (across from Magic Bean) - another good breakfast choice

Mama Clorinda - Reina Victoria y Calama. Good for Ecuadorian food - try the cuy (guinea pig). The special Ecuadorean teas (with booze) are really tasty.

La Sala - Reina Victoria y Calama. Ecuadorean "fusion" food. Small place, with comfy lounge in back. Good prices and "specials", interesting food, nice ambiance.

La Boca del Lobo - Reina Victoria y Calama. Great d�cor, creative international cuisine. Not a budget place, but for a special night out.

Texas Ranch - Mera 1140. Good steaks, reasonable prices, nice fireplace.

Reina Victoria: "British" pub - awful, and ridiculously over-priced.

Flanagan's: Irish-American Bar on Calam� (newly opened). Also awful and overpriced.

Old Town:

D'Camaron - Crespo and Borrero - same owner as the shrimp place in Bahia.

Tianguez - Plaza de San Francisco, outside entrance to Monastery. Caf� and restaurant with both indoor and outdoor seating, and first class handcraft shop. Open for snacks and meals 9:30 to 18:30, 7 days a week.

Pizza CHQ - Espejo between Guayaquil y Flores. Good pizza and italian dishes. Mezzanine level above ovens is cosy on a cool, rainy night.

San Agustin Heladeria y Restaurante - Guayaquil 1053 y Mejia. Clean, friendly place for lunch or early supper.

Things to Do:

New Town:

- Migracion - Av. Amazonas 3149, upstairs - easy to obtain 90-day visa extension. Big mall with Radio Shack across the street.

- Parques: La Alameda and El Ejido - Sunday music and vendors

- Museum of the Quito Observatory - Parque Alameda. Observatory in the heart of Quito, established in 1873. Collection of old instruments, documents. Astronomical, seismological and meteorological stations. Sky viewing through main telescope evenings at 7pm. $0.50 entry, with guide. They were thrilled to have foreign visitors!

- Museo Nacional de Banco Central - excellent archeology and art exhibits, labeled in both Spanish and English.

- Shopping:
- Libri Mundi, down a side street from Hostal Amazonas - guide books in all languages, some english language magazines
- Laboratorio Technico - Av. Republica 2063 y 10 de Agosto. Any electronic part or accessory you might need for equipment repair, etc.

Old Town:

- Old Town Colonial Architecture. Sunday is best for strolling, as traffic in center is limited to residents. Churches, government buildings, Plaza de Independencia.

- Museo de la Ciudad - Moreno 572 y Rocafuerte. History and art of Quito, with some interactive elements. Entry $2.

- San Francisco Church and Monastery. Guided tour (in English) of museum and renovated areas of church. Furniture, paintings and sculpture dating to 16th century. Entry to museum (with guide) $1.

- Church of La Basilica - Carchi 122 y Venezuela, at northeast end of Old Town, on a steep hill. Relatively new gothic style church, with grand stained glass windows. $1.50 give entry to the towers. Climb up into the belfry, ring the bells, get a fantastic view of Quito. For those who enjoy heights!!

Out of Town:

- La Mitad del Mundo - on equator, 15km north of Quito - $1.50 per person to enter compound; monument and ethnographic museum ($3 entry), model of colonial Quito ($1), planetarium, Museo Cultura Solar (donation). 9am-7pm;. Live music on Sunday. Take green bus labeled "Mitad del Mundo" from the corner of Av. America and Colon in Quito ($0.40pp each way) - stops right in front of the compound. Okay, the French miscalculated by 300 meters, but the real story here is in the Museo Solar, which explains why this area is so important to astronomy, and how the city of Quito was laid out by the pre-Incans. Really fascinating. Plenty of restaurants and handicraft shops on site.

- Volcan Pululahua - 6km from Mitad del Mundo. Guided tour available for $6pp at Mitad del Mundo gate by Community Ecotourism Information Center (comunidad_pululahua@hotmail.com). Drive to base of this extinct volcano (Reserva Geobotanica Pululahua), hike up a steep trail to the rim, overlooking 1300ft. deep caldera, where the bottom is farmed. Bilingual guide points out medicinal plants along the way and provides commentary/history. Do this in the morning, because clouds roll in from the opposite side in the afternoon, obscuring the view. Longer walks available to the northwest side where there is cloud forest, waterfalls, etc.

Riobamba

Transportation:

Ba�os via Ambato to Riobamba, $2, 2 hours, leaves every couple of hours.

Riobamba to Cuenca, $6, 6hrs., approx. every 2 hours.

Places to Stay:

Hotel Tren Dorado: Carabobo 22-35 y 10 de Agosto (near train station). $8pp, hot water, sitting rooms, caf� with fireplace, most rooms have twin beds. Buffet breakfast served at 5:30am on "train days". Also a al carte breakfast and light dinners.

Places to Eat:

Hotel Tren Dorado Caf� - limited menu, but tasty and reasonable. Nice fireplace.

Chifa Pekin - Borja 37-42 y Brasil. Good Chinese food, inexpensive, large portions.

El Dilirio - Primera Constituyente 28-16. Lots of atmosphere but pricey.

Things to Do:

In Town:

- Museo de Banco Central - $0.50pp, nice archeology exhibit, labeled in Spanish and English.

- Saturday Market - all over town. Crafts at Orozco y Colon - Salasaca weavings, woolen goods, jewelry.

- Parque 21 de Abril Observation Platform - great view of city and mountains

Out of Town:

Nariz del Diablo Train - $11pp, buy tickets the evening before and show up EARLY for best seats on top (by 6am). 6 to 7 hours from Riobamba to Sibambe and back to Alausi. Two stops (Guamote and Alausi) with bathroom facilities, plus basic toilet in one car. Rent cushion for $1 from vendors. Dress warmly. Train leaves at 7am Wed, Fri and Sun only. Ride terminates in Alausi between 2 and 3pm. Buy onward bus tickets to Cuenca, Guayaquil or Quito on train or ticket counter in Alausi, to Riobamba ONLY at ticket counter in Alausi. Bus to Riobamba leaves hourly on half hour, $2pp, 2 hours.

Salinas (Provincia Bol�var)

Transportation:

Guayaquil to Salinas: From bus terminal in Guayaquil, bus to Guaranda via Babahoyo, 4.5 hrs. One bus leaves at 8am, arrives Guaranda at 12:30pm. Ask directions in Guaranda for the bus or colectivo (truck with benches in the bed and plastic curtain sides) to Salinas, 1.5 hrs.

Riobamba or Ambato to Salinas: Bus to Guaranda, (2hrs. from Riobamba), then take the bus or colectivo (see above). The road from Riobamba to Guaranda passes Volcan Chimborazo and is spectacular.

Places to Stay:

Hotel El Refugio: dorm room with 6 beds, $5pp, toilet and hot shower down the hall. Lobby with Direct TV and fireplace, dining room, mountain views. Cozy "ski lodge" ambiance.

Places to Eat:

Lenin's Caf�: English-speaking owner gives town tours.

Things to Do:

- Tour of cheese, sausage, mushroom co-ops, chocolate and wool factories. Lenin (of restaurant fame) gives 2 hr. tour for $3.50.
- Soccer Ball Factory
- Knitting Factory
- Market (Tuesday)
- Rent horses for rides through hills, 11,500' and higher!