Cruising handbook

The following information has been given to us from various cruisers.

GALAPAGOS

General Information:

General Comments: "MUSIC" had his GPS set to WGS 84, which put him about � mile South on electronic charts. He had a temporary anomaly with Fluxgate compass between the islands. His autopilot started to turn the boat 180�. After some investigation and power cycling all of his instruments, he was back on course. His fluxgate compass was knocked 180� off for some strange reason. Four other boats have reported similar occurrences with in a week of his experience. "SHE WOLF", on the other hand, had no such problem several months later. ?????

There are many "tour guides" that will take you on any tour you want to go on. Some are licensed and do a better job than others. If you have even a little Spanish and have studied the cultural and natural history of the islands, you may get away most cheaply with a taxi driver who will tour you in Spanish. English speaking guides are more expensive. Shop around and get the best deal that you can, considering your needs and desires. Some guides monitor channel 16 and 14.

Unless you make (very expensive) prior arrangements for a special permit, and carry a licensed guide aboard, private yachts may only anchor at the five inhabited ports. Trips to other islands must be done by charter, with a licensed guide.


Travel Permits - AS OF MARCH, 2005 .

THE LAW: Ecuadorian law specifies that visiting boats must have a cruising permit issued by the Director General de Intereses Maritimos (DIGMER) in order to visit the inhabited ports in the Galapagos, which are Pto. B. Moreno, Isla San Cristobal; Pto. Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz; Pto. Villamil, Isla Isabela; Pto. Seymour, Isla Baltra; and Pto. Ibarra, Isla Floreana. Permits are issued for 30 days or more and must be applied for at least 60 days in advance. There if no fee for this permit. Stops are also allowed for emergency purposes, as specified by international maritime law, but in that case, the boat is restricted to the port into which it enters and for a period of time commensurate with correcting the emergency situation. This law has been in effect for many years, but has not been enforced in a regular manner. As of March, 2005, the Port Captains appear to be more uniformly enforcing the law.

There are two basic entry situations; either arriving from Ecuador on a National (internal) Zarpe, or arriving with an International Zarpe from either Ecuador or another country.

Arriving from Ecuador on National Zarpe:

To check out of a port on mainland Ecuador to the Galapagos on a National Zarpe, you must have been issued a DIGMER cruising permit.

Option 1: In Bahia, Tripp Martin, Puerto Amistad will write the application letter in Spanish. It is signed by the boat captain and faxed to DIGMER, along with copies of the following documents: proposed crew list, boat documentation or registration, copies of passports of all crew, copies of "recepcion" and "despacho" receipts from your initial check in with Migracion, copies of the "lights and buoys" and check-in receipts you received from the Port Captain from your initial check-in, and copy of a national zarpe if you already have one from a previous trip up or down the coast. There is a $50 fee to Puerto Amistad for this service, which includes follow up with DIGMER by Puerto Amistad to assure that the permit comes through in a timely manner. A copy of the permit needs to be given to the Port Captain in order for him to check you out on a national zarpe to the Galapagos. Since you will have the actual permit in hand when you arrive in the Galapagos, you can choose any one of the 5 possible ports of entry for your first stop.

Option 2: A cruising permit may also be obtained by the agent NAUGALA (offices on Islas Santa Cruz and San Cristobal) by emailing or faxing information to them prior to arrival. The details follow. The agent should be directed to fax a copy of the permit, when issued, to your local Ecuadorian Port Captain. The cost for NAUGALA to obtain the permit is $50 from the San Cristobal office and about $150 from the Santa Cruz office. You will receive your copy of the permit when you check in with the agent and pay his fee. Therefore, the agent you choose will determine your first port of call in the Galapagos. Tell the agent you just want the permit, without other agent services, to minimize cost. It is NOT necessary, at this time, to have an agent check you in to the Galapagos:

NAUGALA On Isla San Cristobal:

Naugala Cyber
Bolivar Pesantes, General Manager

The following information needs to be emailed or faxed in advance of your arrival at San Cristobal:

Name of boat:
Ships Flag:
Registration Number:
Length in meters:
Width in meters:
Depth in meters:
Gross Tonnage:
Color:
Propulsion, motor or sail:
Captains Name:
Names of Crew:
Arrival Port:
Date of Arrival:
Date of Departure:
Length of stay, number of Days:
Type of visit: Tourist-Only ports or Populated Centers

Email: naugala@hotmail.com
Fax: 593-5-2520846
Phone: 593-5-252-0958

Bolivar prefers 20 to 30 days notice, but may be able to get the permit more quickly.

The cost is $50 per vessel.

NAUGALA On Isla Santa Cruz

Send the information listed above to:

Naugala, Galapagos Yacht Services
Puerto Ayora
Johnny Romero, Manager
Email: nautilagalapagos@interactive.net.ec
Phone: 593-5-252-7403
Cell: 593-9-926-4355

The cost is approximately $150 per vessel.


After receiving fax confirmation that a permit has been issued, the Bahia Port Captain - and presumably the one in Puerto Lucia - will then issue a National Zarpe for the Galapagos. You must still have time on your Ecuadorian visa to do this. When ready to leave the Galapagos, either return to the mainland on your national zarpe or get an international zarpe in the islands and check out with immigration for another country. You can get an international zarpe from Port Captains at Pto. Moreno (San Cristobal), Pto. Ayora (Santa Cruz) or Isla Baltra, but immigration offices are only in Pto. Moreno and Pto. Ayora. If checking out of Baltra, you must travel to Pto. Ayora by bus/cab to get immigration clearance. There are no immigration offices at Isla Isabela or Isla Floreana.

Option 3: It is theoretically possible to go through the permitting process yourself. However, without follow up, the chance of the permit actually being issued in a timely manner is low. SEA TERN had the application letter written and faxed it to the appropriate authority 30 days in advance, and when nothing was heard, was able to visit the DIGMER office in Quito and get the permit issued during their stay. However, there is obviously a cost associated with traveling to Quito and staying for a day or two while things get sorted out, which is likely to be much more than the $50 charged by either Puerto Amistad or NAUGALA San Cristobal for the service.

Arriving from Ecuador or Elsewhere on an International Zarpe:

Option 1: You can get a DIGMER permit from NAUGALA or Puerto Amistad in advance of your arrival in the Galapagos from a foreign port (checked out on an International Zarpe either to the Galapagos or another destination), which will allow you the same privileges in the islands as described above. Follow the same process for obtaining the permit. Theoretically, you can also apply to DIGMER yourself from afar, but you've already heard about the difficulties there.

Option 2: If you arrive on an International Zarpe, either from Ecuador or a foreign port, without a DIGMER permit, AND you can demonstrate a problem that requires a stop in the islands, you will be allowed to stay for as long as it takes to fix the problem (presumably within reason). Theoretically, you can only stay in that one port and then must leave the Galapagos. Needing fuel or water would qualify, but would be easily and quickly correctable and wouldn't get you much time in the islands. The Port Captains in Ayora and Villamil are being particularly analytical about assessing the severity of your "problem" and may send a representative out to take a look at things. They are friendly and helpful and will even give advice on where in the islands the problem can be rectified - but it no longer seems to be a blanket "ok, you can stay for 21 days" situation, as in past years. You may be allowed to go on to another island if your problem cannot be dealt with wherever you first arrive. You may or may not be actually checked in to Ecuador, depending upon whether there is an immigration office in the port where you arrive. If you are checked in, then you'll have to get a new international zarpe when you leave for your foreign destination. This seems to be a very "hit and miss" situation, and depends a lot on which officer you deal with, how persuasive you are, the phase of the moon, etc. Good luck!

The Bottom Line: $50 and a little prior planning for a permit ensures a "no problema" reception in the islands and a relaxing stay of 30 or more days, with visits to 5 islands on your own boat.

Check In Fees:

Fees vary from port to port. The most expensive port is Santa Cruz, then Cristobal. If you use an agent, it will be even MORE expensive, since the agents are held to the letter of the law, which includes having a current Fumigation Certificate. In Santa Cruz, this costs $60, and a guy actually comes out to your boat with stuff he injects in various corners and crevices. Fumigation outfits in Panama are reportedly telling cruisers about this requirement and offering their services for $100! However, boats which checked in to Puerto Ayora and did NOT use an agent were not asked by the Port Captain for a fumigation certificate. Some fees are dependent upon gross tonnage. There is a fairly pricey Galapagos Lights and Buoys Fee which is assessed in Puerto Ayora if you make this your first stop. However, if you enter at another island, this fee is not assessed and a later stop by one cruiser at Ayora did not result in the Port Captain checking to see if they had paid. If your first port is either Ayora or Cristobal, without an agent, count on about $150 in fees for a 42', 26 gross ton boat. Based on recent experience, the least expensive, most hassle-free approach seems to be getting a DIGMER permit through PuertoAmistad and making your first port of call Isla Isabela.

AS OF THIS WRITING, cruisers are not being charged the $100 per person National Park Fee. Tourists arriving by air pay this fee at the airport, so if you have guests coming to meet you there, they must be prepared to pay, in cash. Organized tours are supposed to check to see that all guests have a receipt for the park fee, but unless you are going on a live aboard boat tour, they don't seem to ask for proof of payment.

Provisioning:

All towns have small tiendas where you can get most provisions, although it is more expensive than Ecuador and hit and miss, depending on when the supply boat was last there. Count on prices being 2 to 3 times more than mainland Ecuador, especially in Puerto Ayora. Santa Cruz had a large Gringo type market with a good selection of US provisions and a good wine and liquor selection. There is a very good local market just north of town in Puerto Ayora. Several stores on all islands will sell Pilsener beer, if you have bottles to return. MUSIC was able to buy a case of 12 in Isabela but had to pay the deposit for the empties (total of $20) and were unable to get the deposit refunded. There is one small tienda in Isabela that gets fresh fruits and veggies flown in once every two weeks, and will take your order for something special if you are there at the right time (order by Friday for a Monday or Tuesday delivery). Also on Isabela a great panaderia which is only open after 4pm. There are no stores on Baltra, except for a few tourist-type stalls at the airport.

Fuel:

San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Isabela have gas stations, where you can get gasoline and diesel. Diesel costs were $1.02/gallon. MUSIC was able to get 20 gallons of diesel - in jerry jugs - at Isla Baltra, through the port captain, for $2.00/gallon. At all the above ports, there are folks who will deliver fuel to your boat, either in your own jerry jugs or in bulk containers to be siphoned into your tank. Prices for delivered fuel for "SHE WOLF" ranged from $1.20/ gallon on Isabela, to $1.65/gallon in San Cristobal from a person's private stash when there was no fuel at the gas station. Be aware that the gas stations MAY be out of fuel if you try to fill up right before the next tanker is due to arrive. There is also a fuel barge (which services tour boats) that can deliver large quantities.

Banking:

San Cristobal and Santa Cruz have banks with ATMs, but you may need to go inside with a copy of your passport and ATM card, depending upon which type it is (go early to do this, as banks get very crowded and you might wait hours in line late in the day on a Monday, for example). Others were able to use Master Card/Debit Card at the ATM in Ayora ($300 limit in this case.) S/V MUSIC did have cash wired via "Money Gram" for a 8% fee on the sending side. There is a Money Gram office on Isla Isabela, but no bank.

Take lots of cash - most places either don't take credit cards or add a hefty surcharge.

Souvenir shopping:

About twice as expensive as on the mainland:

Isla San Cristobal: Many shops along the malecon where you can find a large variety of tee shirts and stuff.

Isla Santa Cruz: Many shops, some very high end, along the main road in town and some on the side streets. You can find almost anything you would want here. The Darwin gift shop is within the center itself and part of the proceeds go to the Darwin Research. The gift shop at the entrance to the area leads you to believe that they are the official store. They are not.

Isla Isabela: Very limited shopping, get your souvenirs in Santa Cruz.

Isla Baltra: There are a few vendors selling tee shirts and stuff at the airport.

Other Services:

There are decent lavanderias in Puerto Ayora and Puerto Moreno that machine wash and dry with same day service. There are machine wash, line dry lavanderias at Puerto Villamil.

Numerous cyber cafes in Ptos. Ayora and Moreno, one in Pto. Villamil.

Isla San Cristobal: Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (Wreck Bay)

Entry Information: On approach, stay clear of the SE point. Come in midway between the North point of land, which has a lighthouse on it and the northernmost of 2 tall, white/yellow, lighted buoys, with a short red one in the middle. The red buoy marks a wreck or pinnacle and the waves break quite high near it, so be aware and stay clear. Also, don't come too close to the lighthouse point, as there is a big surf break there and shallow water.

"SHE WOLF" Waypoints:

Approach: 00� 53.00'S 089� 37.00'W
Entry 1: 00� 53.37 089� 37.11
Entry 2: 00� 53.66 089�.36.96
Anchorage: 00� 53.78 089� 36.80

Anchorage: Good holding sand bottom but with big rocky patches which show up from the deck in 30' clear water. On the Southern side, near the Navy buildings, it may be calmer and better protected from the S swell at some times of the year, but it is also MUCH more rocky. No stern anchor required. Water taxi service for $.50 per person per trip, but there are only 2, call on channel 16. Port Captain is located to your right on the beach facing the anchorage. This is also a good beach to land a dinghy. HOWEVER, there are a lot of BIG sea lions around the anchorage and beach. They have no problem getting up on a swim step, or into a dinghy, so the water taxi may save you a messed up (or sunken) dink.

Things to Do:

* Cab tour across the islands to the tortoise conservation center, ocean view point, El Junco Lagoon (take the volcano crater rim hike, 1 hour) and La Loberia beach with seals and marine iguanas. $50 for a cab full (Spanish speaking only). There are English-speaking tour guides who will also give this tour (for more money)

* Self guided walk to the Interpretive Center (closed for repair in March) and trails to overlooks, snorkeling cove, and up frigate bird hill.

* Boat and scuba tours

* Snorkeling from your own dinghy.

* Side trip to circumnavigate Kicker Rock, about 10 miles up the coast of San Cristobal. This is an incredible rock, in three pieces, rising 500' up above the water which is 400' deep all around. Boat and dive trips to here also available.

Isla Santa Cruz: Puerto Ayora (Academy Bay); largest town in islands.

Entry Information: Very straightforward. Keep the lighthouse on Isla Coama�o to starboard upon entry. There are several yellow mooring buoys within the anchorage and many bleach bottles marking local boat moorings, large boats may use the buoys.

Anchorage: Good holding sand bottom, but with rocky patches. Unfortunately it faces S, right where the swell comes from, so can be very bouncy. There is a lot of water taxi and tour boat traffic near the pier on the left side of the bay as you enter, so anchor to the right side of the crowd to avoid it. You will see a large orange day marker on shore to the right of the blue and white Port Captain buildings. Lining up with that seems to keep you out of most of the traffic.
Anchoring Position: 00 44.850 S 090 18.570 W, 18' mid-tide. Don't go much closer to the shore than this, as it shallows up.

Stern anchors are essential, due to the swell, as well as crowded conditions. Water taxis will set and retrieve stern anchors for you for $2.00 each. It is very crowded when the tour ships come in on Wednesday and Saturday evenings. Also, it is very entertaining to watch as they use their dinghies as tug boats. They can anchor closer than comfortable to everyone. There is no dinghy dock, so use of the water taxis is mandatory, hail on channel 16.

Things to Do:

* Tour the Darwin Research Station - tortoise pens where they are raising young ones, and pens with the adults that you can just walk around in. They also had land iguanas in three pens that you could walk around. Nice visitor center/museum with video presentation several times morning and afternoon. Say "hi" to Lonesome George.

* Bahia Tortuga over a great paved path. Free, no guide required. Marine iguanas, shore birds and 2 great beaches made up of fine white sand. Surfing and body surfing if you are willing to brave the currents (large warning signs on beach). In the lagoon at the second beach there were white-tipped sharks in the shallows, shade trees to picnic under, and fearless Darwin finches.

* Las Grietas, which is a fissure in the volcanic rock, again free. Rougher trail there - take a water taxi to the Hotel Finch dock and follow signs to begin the walk.

* Tour to private ranch with wild land tortoises. Many tour companies arrange this for about $25pp or you can get a cab driver to take you, if your Spanish is up to it. Ranch owner will provide coffee/tea. This tour also usually includes a visit to a large lava tube and to the "craters" of Los Gemelos (actually huge volcanic gas bubbles that collapsed).

* Scuba Iguana Divers rents full air tanks for $6.00 per day. All of their dive tours are around $110 for a days trip and 2 dives and includes lunch and equipment. Also recommended is Galapagos Sub-Aqua. There are a number of other dive outfits as well. Incredible hammerhead sharks, large pelagics at Gordon Rocks and Seymour sites.

* Taxi tour to Lava Tubes "Los Tuneles de Bellavista. Described in Lonely Planet, cost $10 for round trip taxi, $3.00 pp for the tour. Not to be missed. This same tour costs $25 pp through the travel agents along the malecon.

* Tour to North Seymour Island and Las Bachas Beach. $75 pp for full day, including lunch and transportation. Bus across island to Santa Cruz-Baltra ferry dock, small cabin cruiser to North Seymour Island to see sea lions, blue-footed booby and frigate bird rookeries, lots of marine and land iguanas. Hot lunch aboard, then visit for snorkeling and beach-combing at beautiful white sand Las Bachas Beach. Flamingo lagoon behind beach.

Isla Isabela: Puerto Villamil; more protected, calm anchorage

Entry information: As you approach Isla Isabela from the east, there is a small island to the south of Villamil in the shape of a half moon, called Isla Tortuga and a small rock to the north of it, called Roca Bura. If you approach the island in the dark, shape a course to go between the two and avoid going north of Roca Bura. There are breakers off Isla Isabela in this area and the swell picks up.

After passing Roca Bura and Tortuga, alter course to the WSW to pass south of the shoals on the outside of Villamil and then to the NW to parallel them and to intersect the inbound 029� track that is the recommended course on the electronic chart (Chart 22529). (From the ocean, two adjacent orange pyramids on shore - actually roofs of a hostel - make a good day marker.) As you come in on the 029� course, it leads off a white beacon on the beach. You will also see a green buoy just to the left in the distance. On the chart, you will also see a light on the north end of the reef that you are leaving to starboard. The light on the chart has the characteristics Fl(2+1)15s 11m 7M. This marks the entrance to the anchorage area and is also marked by red/green channel markers, as well as a new buoy that is large and yellow and marks the anchorage.

PEREGRINATA's waypoints were:

00�57.96S, 090�58.23W
00�59.61S, 090�58.36W;
01�00.16S, 090�57.35W

Anchorage: The anchorage area is bounded by low volcanic islets, is quite calm and is a lot smaller than it looks as you enter, because it is mostly filled with submerged reefs and shoals. Reefs are above water at low tide. PEREGRINATA's anchorage position: 00�57.938'S 090�57.730'W (GPS is on WGS84) and were in 14' water at low tide. MUSIC's anchorage position was 00�57.90S, 090�57.74W, in 10' at low tide.

You can land your dinghy across the anchorage to the left of the cargo pier (Embarcadero) in front of the little restaurant/bar called "Club Nautico". We were advised to take our fuel hose with us each time, as this seems to be the item that goes missing (you see locals walking around town carrying their hoses, so it seems a valid concern for everyone). At anything but the highest point of the tide, you will need to travel around the periphery of the anchorage in deeper water to reach the dinghy beach, rather than go straight across. You will see the rocks and sand bars. With care and experience, you can make this trip ok even in the dark at low tide.

To reach town from the Embarcadero, follow the road, which bears to the left and stay left when the road branches. Town is about a 15-20 minute walk away.

Things to Do:

* Wildlife around the anchorage. There are sea lions that frolic around the boat and you could easily swim with them. On the small islets that surround the anchorage you can see marine iguanas, penguins and sea lions basking on the beach, as well as blue-footed boobies. All the animals let you get pretty close.

* Las Tintoreas: This is a trail around the reef and islets surrounding the anchorage. Free. Wildlife includes penguins, turtles, marine iguanas, white tipped reef sharks, sea lions, and blue footed boobies living in a volcanic landscape. The steps are in the center opening in the reef that many fishing pangas take to the open sea -just watch them.

* Tour to the volcanoes Cerro Negro and Volcan Chico. All day trip. By truck up to the agricultural area and then by horse back for two hours past Cerro Negro crater (12km acorss). Leave horses huge jaboncillo tree and then hike to the very barren, moonscape like, area of Volcan Chico (45 minutes). There are several vents that had some hot gas escaping and some deep sink holes with steam. The last time this area erupted was 1979. This tour was $25 per person with Minino, at The Wooden House hostel and you need to bring your own food and drink and long pants to ride the horses. Even if it is cloudy and rainy in the anchorage, it will more than likely be clear at the volcanoes. Other groups went with a licensed naturalist, Wilheim, found at Louis's tienda in the center of town ($140 for group of 5). Joseph and Richard will also try to sell this tour.

* Tour to the Muro de L�grimos (Wall of Tears), Mirador and Nature Trails. The wall was built after WWII by inmates of a penal colony. From there, go to the Mirador (overlook) and then walk along trails. We went into a large lava tube that goes under the ocean in the distance. You could hear the waves crashing onto the tube and the water dripping in. We also went to Playa del Amor, which was covered in marine iguanas. We then walked back towards town, passing two lagoons, which often have pink flamingos. Locals suggest going at 6pm when they return from feeding although there were some there at mid-day too. You can arrange a taxi for $12 to take you 6km to the Wall, wait, take you to the Mirador, wait, take you to the first set of trails, from which you visit the others and walk back to town.

* Snorkeling in the reef area with white tipped sharks. The cost is approximately $10 per person for two hours. You can go with your own dinghy by yourselves, too.

* Guided kayak tour. Hire guide from Wooden House B&B (Minino) for $25 and $5 each per hour for kayaks. To a little offshore island and coves along the coast. LOTS of sealife, surfing the waves! Alfredo Bolivar (Minino), ga_viye@yahoo.com, phone 05-252-9008

* Cabo Rosa: This is a 25 mile panga ride to Cabo Rosa, with a stop at Roca Union. This is an unbelievable lava landscape which is negotiated by the panga driver through a series of narrow channels and arches with cactus growing on them. The collapsed lava created many tunnels and bridges that are magical. We rode around for about an hour, stopped for a snorkel excursion (wet suits advised; it's chilly!);then to a different cove for our box lunch, which we provided. We organized this tour through Minino, who hangs out at the Hostel Wooden House. The cost was $250 for up to 10 people. If there aren't enough cruisers to fill the boat, Minino may be able to round up other tourists to cut the price to $25 each. This trip is worth the cost. The tour boats don't go here because of the breakers. LOTS of sea turtles and huge manta rays spotted offshore.

* Turtle hatchery, which is a 20-30 min walk from town. It is free and is prettier than the hatchery at the Darwin Center, although it is smaller.

* Lava Tunnels on West end of town up the beach road; there are many small beaches and lagoons along the way. These tunnels extend out to sea and can only be entered a small distance.

Isla Baltra: Puerto Seymour, international airport on this island, for Isla Santa Cruz. Some large tour boats pick up their passengers here, rather than in Puerto Ayora.

Entry Information: Easy entrance. The charts call it Caleta Aiolian, but the Port Captain's address is Puerto Seymour. Approach waypoint was 00�26.500S, 090�18.000W

Anchorage: There are large patches of rocks in the anchorage, but there are also large patches of sand. The tour boats seem to have no problems, but look for sand. The wind seemed to be diurnal in nature and swung us around 180� morning and evening. The anchorage seems to be well protected. Anchor at 00�26.248S, 090�17.042W

Things to Do: No real tours except to get checked out of Ecuador on Isla Santa Cruz Immigration office. MUSIC caught a bus to the airport $1 pp, then a truck to the ferry terminal $1 pp.,then the ferry across to Santa Cruz, $1pp., then a cab to Puerto Ayora to check out, then back again with a stop at the Mercado $30 total. Or, you can take the airport bus, which is scheduled to meet flights, for much less. Only runs in the morning, however.

* Isla Mosquera, white sand island with sea lion colony, is about 4.5 miles from the anchorage, and possibly reachable by dinghy, altho we didn't try it.

Isla Santa Maria (Floreana): Puerto Ibarra

Entry Information: Straightforward, if you avoid rocky patch noted on chart to north of anchorage area. Approach waypoint: 01� 16.0 S 090� 30.0 W

Anchorage: Anchor in front of Hotel Wittmer, to the right of the Port Captain building off brown sand beach. Lots of rocky areas, but good holding in course sand off this beach. SHE WOLF first tried to anchor closer to Port Captain, but just volcanic rock bottom there. Anchorage position: 01� 16.657 S 090� 29.436 W, in 35'. Beach your dinghy in front of the hotel. Sand is course, not packed down and dinghy wheels sunk in, so be ready to push hard if your dink/engine is heavy.

Things to Do:

* Highland tour: take the bus up to the end of the line and hike up to the old Wittmer farm. Turtle pen with tortoises which were the pets of Margaret Wittmer and are completely used to humans. Spring which is the only water supply on the island and caves where the Wittmers lived when they first arrived. Great island overlook. "Bus" goes to the farm early in the morning and returns right away - good for "birders" who ride up and then walk back down. Also goes at 3pm and returns at about 5 or 5:30pm. You may be able to tag along behind a tour group and listen to their guide, as SHE WOLF did, for free. SEA TERN went up with Erica Wittmer (grand daughter of the original settler, Margaret), who guided them. Bus is $1pp each way.

* Panga tour to "Post Office Bay": this is an official tourist site and requires a guide. Hotel Wittmer can arrange.

* Snorkeling tour to Devil's Crown: arrange through Hotel Wittmer.

* Have a beer and/or dinner at Hotel Wittmer, meet Margaret's daughter, Floreana and grand daughter Erica, and look through their Yacht Book, especially the one from the early 60's. Learn about the very interesting history of human habitation on this island. Make arrangements for dinner early in the day as the Hotel does not always have guests, or may have too many to accommodate extra heads.

* Walk or dinghy to La Loberia, sea lion rookery south of the anchorage.

Other Ways To Visit The Galapagos

If you don't want to take your own boat out to the Galapagos, or if you have guests joining you who need land arrangements, here are some options:

Air Travel: TAME flies from Quito and Guayaquil to Isla Baltra and Isla San Cristobal airports. Round trip fare from Guayaquil to Baltra in February, 2005, was about $350. TAME usually does not release seats for general sale until close to the departure date (saving them for pre-arranged tour groups), so if you want to assure a seat to someone not on a tour (particularly in high season), you may need to go through an Ecuadorian travel agency. SHE WOLF used Bahia Dolfin Tours agency in Bahia de Caraquez to book the flight and a few days in a hotel on Isla Santa Cruz for a visitor, when they were unable to get the flight arranged directly with TAME.

There is a small air taxi that flies from Puerto Villamil to Islas Baltra and San Cristobal. $80 one way to Baltra, timed to connect with TAME flight back to Guayaquil.

Boat Travel: There are regularly scheduled small boats which run passengers between Puerto Villamil, Santa Cruz and San Cristobal. $30 one way.

Multi-Day Boat Tours: Once in Puerto Ayora or Puerto Moreno, you can arrange to take multi-day liveaboard or live-on-land boat tours to other destinations, including many which can only be reached by a tour boat. Also liveaboard dive boat tours. Last minute bookings or advance bookings through travel agencies on the islands.

Hotels: Many hotels and hostels in Puerto Ayora and San Cristobal, and quite a few in Puerto Villamil. Wide range of prices and accommodations. Some suggestions:

Hotel Fernandina, Puerto Ayora: $37 single, private bath, a/c, including breakfast and taxes.

The Wooden House Hostal, Puerto Villamil: $25pp, private bath, including breakfast and taxes. Little dipping pool, free use of kayaks, a/c. Email: thewoodenhouse@hotmail.com

Hosteria Isabela del Mar and Hotel Ballena Azul, Puerto Villamil: same owner. $15pp single, $12pp double plus 22% tax, does NOT include breakfast. Email: isabela@ga.pro.ec

Hotel La Casa de Marita B&B, Puerto Villamil: European style"boutique" hotel on the beach. $35 plus 22% tax single, $60 plus tax double, $90 plus tax ocean front suite, including breakfast. Takes Mastercard or Visa. Email: hcmarita@easynet.net.ec or hcmarita@ga.pro.ec

Last but not least, when we were there we were told by french boats (who else) not to clear in. Apparently quite a lot of yachts just visit and go without clearing in and they get away with it. I guess as long as the money is still spent supporting the local entrepeneurs and shop owners...