Galapagos Islands
san Cristobal

Well, we are here! Safely anchored in a new place, full of new sights,smells and adventure! Our landfall to the islands sure was exciting enough! And our trip coming here, initially from Panama but then we had to divert to Ecuador due to mechanical problems, well, I always say it is like childbirth...fortunately, one forgets the bad very quickly...the bashing; the head winds; the rain;...the endless days making slow,slow progress; getting snagged in the fishing lines off the Ecuadorian coast......did that happen to us?

Daybreak yesterday was in beautiful pinks and blues and as it got lighter and lighter we saw the islands ! We were about 30 miles off, perfect timing and I was glad that we decided to motor during the night in order not to loose ground during the night, we have had only light winds the last few days and did not want to approach the islands or anchorage during the night. Dolphins joined us, frolicking in the swells off our bows....always such a pleasure seeing them.

In anticipation, we started to get the boat in order, packed everything away and at lunch time, as we reached the shallower water, the rod went off...with a loud "ziiiing"!! Whatever took line, took it with such a force that by the time Claude grabbed the rod, we only had a few meters left on the rod! I manouvered the boat and started to motor back while Claude and Mariska hung on to the rod with all their strength! We did not want to loose the rod or the line or our new purple Repalla!

At the end of the line was a Manta Ray. Huge, with a wingspan of about 3 meters and heavy! We think the Manta floated just under the surface of the water and it got hooked on the Repalla as we sailed past. This was going to take hours! and it did. We reeled in, it took off, we lost all the line again, we reeled in, lost it...at last we had the Manta close to the boat and then started to worry about how to get the Repalla loose. The Ray was way too big to even try and get it onto the boat and although tired, it was still alive. And then nature took it's course. The line touched the stanchion and with a loud crack the line snapped and off the Ray went..into the deep water. We lost the Repalla off course, but at least not the rod and line, ....and the Ray did not die!!!

The approach to the anchorage at San Cristobal was easy. Huge swells and breakers had us gawking and Claude was in his element when he saw beautiful "lefts"! El Canon is a famous surf spot and we have seen photos of the break when the swells are running and it is awesome. As soon as we had anchored, the local yellow water taxis started to approach and "inform" us. One had diesel and water to offer, the other a guided tour to the volcanoes, the other does laundry...on and on and on, always very friendly and very entrepreneurial!

And then we saw them! Sea lions. They were everywhere and on everything! Lying on dinghys, sprawled on the back steps of boats.....I guess you know what's coming? We decided there and then, not to lower our cute little dinghy into the water...one of those fat sea lions will just squash our little dinghy, and we could use the water taxis to get to the shore in the morning anyway.

I hung towels over the stanchions and lifelines at the back steps in case a sea lion should decide to "board" us...I thought that this would be a deterrent. We also tied "Amigo" in the cockpit and we were looking forward to a looong, restful sleep and with him running forward and back across the deck, his nails making scraping noises, it would not be possible.

I woke up this morning, it was still dark, with the sound of grunts and groans around the boat. I got up and saw "Amigo" staring absolutely stupefied at the back of the boat....and there they were! Two sea lions on our back steps, staring friendly and inquisitively at our hairy pooch, blinking their black eyes, twitching their noses. "Mitzi", our cat, was perched on the surf boards, her back arched round, ears flat, staring back at them....and so was I. Ok, not on the surf boards, the staring part I mean! I was at a loss as to what to do. Scared, absolutely amazed, astounded...all of those and I could not believe it! I grabbed the video camera. I thought that I just have to shoot it, capture the moment to believe it! A sea lion looked at me, very "friendly", I hope.....and proceeded to come up! First the one fin, then smoothly the big shiny glossy body. I grabbed the broom, not really wanting to appear unfriendly, but definately not wanting a sea lion traipsing all over our boat! I guess it was stale mate. He stared at me, sniffed at the broom. He was not retreating, but at least not moving forward. "Amigo" stood frozen ( he could not even bark) and the cat was in no better condition! It was hilarious.

I went down and woke the girls and just told them to come and see! Rochelle stood and stared, still sleeping...until the brain told the eyes what she was seeing. Her eyes widened, there was a visible start through her body...and I just had to suppress the nervous, hysterical laughter that was threatening!

The sea lion's appetite broke the spell, he slid off into the water, I guess to catch his breakfast....but only to be back a few minutes later!

"Amigo" has been sitting at the top of the back step like Noah's wife, for the last hour. Frozen, not moving...staring at the back steps, waiting for "them" to come onboard..which they do all the time! Me? Well, I am at least not staring at the back step all the time, I am staring at the computer screen, typing this letter, but (just so you don't think I am a "woozie") keeping an ever watchful eye on the back steps. I do not know how we will be able to leave the boat...we might come back and find a whole big colony all over "Prrr"! They are cute with their whiskers and big eyes and little ears...well, the smallish ones that we have seen on our back steps. The biiiiigggg ones....well, I just don't know if we will find them very cute and adorable on our boat... I think the friendly relationship will turn very quickly hostile! And Claude is still in dreamland amongst all this excitement!

Lots to see and to do still, we have to clear-in and see if they have internet here. We can go to one of the volcanoes. The volcanoes are
relatively active on these islands, the last eruption was recorded in 1988! Lots of beaches where we will see marine iguanas and turtles and, of course, Claude wants to surf! There is snorkeling to do, lots of fish around here. We could go to la Loberia, the sea lion colony( if we want to see even more sea lions). There is the old village, el Progreso, where the Norwegians used to live when they tried to start the fishing and canning industry.

So, let the day begin...and we will update you later!