What is most on my mind these days? Going home.
It was with gratefulness in my heart that we joined in the Seawind Rally which sailed from Puerto Escondido to Santa Rosalia together making new friends and being reunited with old friends. It helped me to focus on our last few weeks here and make the most of them; rather than just planning my exit strategy.
Our first day was intended as a short day with a little hop over to the Coronado Islands but after receiving a weather forecast (thanks to Ralph and his SSB) we altered plans and headed all the way to San Juanico. The next day was supposed to be blowing hard and right on our nose! That meant we had about a 7 hour sail and we hadn't departed until after 13:00 so the kids could participate in the dinghy races. Again, my stress level accelerated as I hate arriving in a new anchorage after dark. We had wonderful winds pushing us along until we got into the lee of Isla Coronado where Brad and I discussed attempting a new first: sailing wing on wing downwind with the main and our screecher! It worked beautifully....until the wind died. The winds picked up shortly after and we managed to sail sweetly into San Juanico about half an hour before dark.
A highlight of San Juanico is the abundance of obsidian just hankering to be collected by eager hands. Zach and I went for a little hike and came back with shirts and pockets full. Obsidian is basically shiny, smooth black glass formed from volcanic lava which cooled extremely rapidly. It was used to carve tools and weapons, including arrowheads. (They are also known as Apache Tears. The legend is from the late 19th century when there was fighting between the United States and the Apache. The Apache warriors realized they would not be able to win the battle so they jumped to their death to avoid capture. The families of these brave warriors wept for their loss and it is said that the tears formed the black stones and if you carry one in your pocket it is said you will never need to cry again because an Apache warrior's family will have wept for your sorrows.) We were so pleased with our finds. The snorkeling at the reefs was stunning - the reefs are both a delight and a danger; danger to boats entering the anchorages and a delight to explore the diversity of the ocean. I saw my first octopus!
After two days at San Juanico waiting for the norther to subside we headed to Punta Pulpito which had a gorgeous streak of obsidian in the cliff face. We found soccer ball sized chunks of obsidian. It was still quite rough out on the sea due to the prevailing winds so we waited a night to head up into the Bay of Conception.
Anchoring in Playa Burro, Bahia Concepion was fantastic other than the air brakes of semis as they descended the steep highway lining the bay. The water was deliciously warm and the kids very quickly jumped in; almost not waiting until the anchor was set!
That evening we were invited aboard Sylvester to share in the most amazing tuna catch in the form of sashimi and lightly seared tuna and ceviche! I was so stuffed and then we went out for dinner at Bertha's Bar and Restaurant. My appetite was hindered in a sharp sting of a bee that decided to make a little meal out of a piece of my ankle! I squashed the little bugger with my chair! Who says revenge doesn't bring relief? It didn't, to be honest; but ice did.
I was looking forward to a fantastic early morning hike up to a small peak that was noted for having Amerindian petroglyphs. The hike was great as Brad and Lori braved the heat and went all the way to the top. We were rewarded with a fantastic view of the Playa Burro where we were anchored, but no petroglyphs. A highlight of the hike was the opportunity for a "real" discussion with Lori Jerman who has become a friend. We both needed to vent a little as women who want more out of their lives and we ended up praying for one another at the end of the hike in the shade of a palapa on the beach. I was touched and moved by this time where I felt close to another sister in Christ who shared my longings for a great marriage, a great family and knowing our Lord more.
As one by one the boats pulled out of the anchorage, we, as a family, longed to slow down a little so we donned the snorkel gear, jumped in the dinghy and went exploring. We were much rewarded for our delay. We got to witness about a dozen sting rays swimming in a group gracefully under the surface. When we jumped in the waters around the rocky point I was a little unnerved to note a group of about seven small sharks swimming in circles. I kept my eye on them and they seemed more intent on feeding than in checking us out; at least for awhile. Not too much later they started coming our way and I let the family know. Kat very quickly swam back to the dinghy; I was already in! Brad joined us wondering what the little commotion was about while Zach, in disdain, stayed out on his boogie board completely unconcerned by their presence. Now who is like their dad?
We left the incredibly warm waters of the Bay of Conception to catch up to the Seawind fleet at Sweet Pea Cove on the north end of Isla Marcos. Katryn was antsy to get in the kayak until a couple of sea lions got a little too close for her comfort. Brad jumped into the water and swam to shore to cool off. Unfortunately he was repetitively stung by jellyfish and had to swim all the way back being stung again. He still bears the marks that look like burns on his arm.
In the early morning hours while sipping my most excellent cup of French pressed coffee I was alarmed to see a jet boat approaching with four men outfitted in khakis and one man armed with a mean looking gun! As they approached the anchorage I saw them don black ski masks! I kind of freaked out! I got out the flare gun and loaded it in case they were pirates scoping out which of these obviously luxurious boats would be their target! I was contemplating alerting our other friends of their presence but Brad stayed my hand...thankfully. They turned out to be Mexican marines....not pirates. I laugh at myself now, but when my heart was pounding all I could think about was protecting my children. Gato Loco who has sailed these seas for eight years now informed me that their presence on the beach was to deter the drug cartels from using the island. They were the good guys. I wish I had known.
And so....on to today. We are docked for our second and last night in quaint Santa Rosalia, our northernmost point of sail. We head back south tomorrow, spending our last two weeks alone as a family, revisiting our favorite anchorages on the way back south to La Paz.
And back to what is always lurking in my mind....going home. I can hardly believe the kids and I are down to our last two weeks. But that is another blog.