Florida to North Carolina, USA
07 July 2017
NOAA gives positions of the western edge of the Gulf Stream as it heads north up the coast of America. It makes such a difference to speed that we endeavour to stay in the current as much as possible. Up to 4 knots at times making our overall distance in 24 hours over 200 nm and the decrease in water temperature as you move out of the warm tropical current gives a clue on current direction. The weather isn't that great though. Frequent rain squalls with gusting winds and wind over current waves make things less idyllic but progress is quickly made by opting to stay in the current rather than the shorter more direct route. Eventually approaching Beaufort/Morehead, North Carolina, the channel markers nod between the rather large waves as the wind continues to build. Heading towards the low-lying land a pleasure trawler judders into the steep waves as we surf down wind. The wind drops and flags flutter while small power boats with large speakers anchor along the beaches making the most of the forthcoming Independence Day holiday. Beaufort looks to be a pretty seaside town (renowned for its association with Blackbeard), we’ll visit again, but for now sleep beckons with pine trees scenting the air.
Dolphins cavort through the early morning anchorage slapping their tails, herding their fishy breakfast before heading out to sea and we have our first real experience of the Intracoastal Waterway. The river and canal waterway cuts the corner with a day/night off our journey. The inland scenery is beautiful, eagles soar over riverside houses while ‘Marry Me’ signs and sculptural dockside bird homes provide talking points as the occasional rather fast motor boat disturbs the tranquility. The shrimp trawler ahead trails its nets as it wends its way out of Adams Creek into the tannin brown Neuse River and we head towards New Bern. Juffa’s new home from home for a while.
The ‘new to us’ sail is inspected on grass overlooking the geese and ducks of New Bern. Additional luff and leech boxes are acquired while a dinghy trip up river with local boaters give us the first taste of North Carolina USA. Breakfast of everything is tried at the up river store - bacon, eggs, biscuit with cheese, hashbrown, sausage, grits…and it is an experience….maybe the grits will grow on us.