Auckland is a city of ferries and water. For the new arrival it can be hard to orient yourself. The Sky Tower (Auckland’s bulbous predecessor to Shanghai’s TV tower) pops up in views in all sorts of unexpected ways, but that doesn’t always help you work out which bit of water you’re crossing.

We took the ferry to the suburb of Devonport. The area has a long history, being the site of three Maori pa (forts) on its volcanic cones. The white settlers built elegant colonial villas with balconies and fretted columns, now shaded by mature trees. The headland played a big role in NZ defence, and is scattered with gun emplacements, searchlight mountings, the last pillars of a chain across the harbour entrance and a small warren of tunnels. A period of decline has ended in a surge of gentrification and it is now uber-chic. Home to a splendid chocolatier, a coffee roaster, various exhibiting jewellers, and more nic cafes than you can shake a stick at.

The picture is Auckland’s CBD from the water, a cluster of towers and shapes that belies the sprawling, low-rise nature of the city.