Intrepid Travels

It was windier than expected when we woke on the 16th, but we decided to head out as planned with our chosen route across the North Channel. We headed initially eastwards, towards the Mull of Kintyre, hoping for flatter water and a better sailing angle to get us across the channel. As we raised the main sail, with three reefs, the winds screamed up to 30 knots plus and the seas were a mass of white caps. Its didn't feel good with a difficult and narrow crossing to make with very strong tidal flows, so 5 minutes later we decided to pull out and retreat to a small bay on the western side of the Mull, and shelter from the gale force south easterly winds. It was a good decision: the winds only increased and we were glad to be safely at anchor in flat water for the night. The break gave us another opportunity to check the times for crossing the North Channel and Rathlin Sound, where the tide rushes through at 6-8 knots.
It was a tense morning as we waited for the departure time to arrive. At last it was 2 pm and we set off, hoping that we had got the planning right. It was an adrenaline filled afternoon, as the winds changed repeatedly in both strength and direction as we cleared the tip of the Mull and headed across the shipping lane. The visibility was poor but eventually we could see Fair Head looming majestically in the distance. The current took us flying forwards but, as we entered the Sound, the tide suddenly turned and we were fighting to maintain 3.5 knots with both engines flat out. We could see the sheer zone marking the edge of the current stream just ahead but for many tense moments it seemed like we might not make it and would be swept backwards, as our pilot book had warned us would happen if we were even a few minute late in arriving. Thankfully, we just made it across the line and were exhausted as we entered the tiny fishing harbour at Ballycastle where we tied up against the harbour wall and had our first Irish fish and chips for dinner.