Wednesday-Saturday, April 27-30, 2016

Trip planning in the Exumas comes with its own unique challenges – this Saturday morning is an excellent example! We came into the noted Staniel Cay Yacht Club and Marina (SCYC) on Thursday because we were told there was a large regatta of powerboats from Ocean Reef arriving on Saturday and there would be no docks available until Monday. So we decided to take advantage of Thursday and Friday night availability and explore beautiful Staniel Cay.

We were also trying to secure dinner reservations at the very unique Hill House on Fowl Cay, a small island next to Big Majors Spot Cay. When we called on Wednesday at 12:00 for reservations that evening, we were too late. Even though the restaurant does not take advance reservations – one needs to call first thing in the morning, with reservations taken on a “first call-first serve basis.”

Upon calling on Thursday morning, we then learned that the restaurant would be closed May 1-10. Hence because of our SCYC dock commitment, Saturday night, April 30, was our only option. We actually called on Friday to be sure they knew we wanted Saturday evening reservation. They wrote down the “Lady J” – party of 2, but emphasized that we needed to call again on Saturday morning.

I decided it was time to fill up the 6-gallon gas tank for our dinghy that was nearing empty. When I went over to the SCYC fuel dock early Friday afternoon, I was informed that they were not selling gasoline today and that they did not know when the next delivery would arrive – maybe today, maybe tomorrow, maybe next week??? Now you need to know, being in the Exumas without a motorized dinghy is like being in a candy store without any money!

So our plan for Saturday morning was to call and confirm our Fowl Cay reservations and, if confirmed, see if gasoline had arrived at SCYC, fill up and return to the beautiful Big Majors anchorage for a few days. BUT here is the litany of Saturday morning:

Fowl Cay Club – contacted at 8:15 and was told we are on the list but they are awaiting a party of 8 and a party of 6 to confirm. If they call and confirm before 10:00, they could not take us??? -- so much for “first call, first serve”

SCYC – still no gasoline and not sure when it might arrive. HOWEVER, since the marina was running out of gasoline for their rental boats, someone might have to travel 60 miles to get some gasoline. If so, we could send our 6-gallon tank with them to be filled??? Or maybe the dock office gal, Patrice, could find a local that MIGHT sell me one gallon??

SCYC – willing to let us stay Saturday and Sunday if we were willing to move to the fuel dock??

SCYC – we have been trying to rent a golf cart for the past two days – none available nor could any be reserved?? However, Patrice was willing to call Isles General Store that might have a cart available.

So with all these uncertain options facing us, Judy and I decided to have breakfast on the sunset deck and wait for “island time” to unfold --- and then determine how “Lady J’s” day might unfold???

Fortunately, by 10:00 we were confirmed for a unique dining experience at Hill House on Fowl Cay – whose uniqueness was verified by the pricing per person – all inclusive BUT the sunset view is free! So Judy and I confirmed our dinner choice of spiny lobster and started our departure preparations – interrupted frequently by admirers complimenting us on the beauty of our Gozzard sailing vessel.

We originally arrived at Big Majors Spot and the pig beach on Wednesday afternoon, after a 3 hour close hauled motor sail with main and staysail from Warderwick Wells. We quickly determined this to be our best anchorage to date, well protected from the wind with little impact from the current – as a result, the anchorage included a “gaggle of boats” – but it is so vast, that we did not feel crowded – although it did take us 3 anchoring attempts to avoid feeling too close to our neighbors.

Big Majors Spot Beach:

o Fish that fly
o Pigs that swim
o Roosters that crow – morning and night
o Seagulls that seem to have blue underside wings (reflecting the turquoise waters)

Exploring with the dinghy was our first order of business. We cruised past the pig beach to observe why these must be the best fed pigs in the universe – even though they may have to swim for their food – which they do quite well. We decided to return later in the afternoon when the crowds would surely have departed.

After returning from an exploratory visit to SCYC, we saw the beach was empty of humans and decided to have our own private encounter with the swimming pigs. We gathered some lettuce and carrots and as we approached the beach, we spotted one very large pig resting and awaiting our arrival. We enjoyed a pleasant “encounter” with this hungry and very friendly hog that only photos can adequately describe.

After docking at SCYC on Thursday morning, we enjoyed a delicious lunch – then confirmed our entrée selections for the 8:30 dinner seating. Next we settled in for a relaxing afternoon – planning for Friday to be a boat chore day: check systems, re-provision (as much as possible), clean the boat.

Thursday night, Judy experienced what we now think was a severe pinched nerve in the elbow of her left arm – the one that was not recovering from shoulder surgery. Not knowing exactly what was causing the pain, we treated it for several hours during the night, with a heating pad providing the best relief. So there was some uncertainty about Friday morning until we were able to confirm the pain was dissipating and we could then work on our Friday boat chores.

I decided I would go “swimming with the sharks” – that is, the nurse sharks - that are also well fed near the SCYC fish cleaning station. So with snorkel on and camera in hand, I furthered my experience with underwater photography. What a thrill to be swimming with these gentle creatures and seeing a very large ray glide by frequently.

We finally discovered that the “Thunderball Grotto” from James Bond fame is located a short dinghy ride from the SCYC. It is best visited at low tide and with the sun high. Because of our gasoline shortage that we were rationing for the Fowl Cay dining experience, we decided to visit the grotto next week when we make our return visit to SCYC.

So our first visit to Staniel Cay has been most interesting but not yet completely fulfilled. On our return next week, we hope to visit Thunderball Grotto and have a golf cart available to truly explore the entire island.