On Monday morning, we took our first Bahamian morning swim at Great Sail before we hoisted anchor for a leisurely cruise to Green Turtle Cay. W navigated the very narrow channel into White Sound, fortunately well marked, and docked at the Bluff House.

I experienced some nostalgic feelings on our return to the Bluff House. I came here with Tom Liber 41 years ago to check on the 38 Cabo Rico that he and the owner, Al, had sailed from Florida several weeks earlier. It was my first trip to the Bahamas, my first sailing experience, and my first snorkeling.

We anchored in White Sound, just off of the Bluff House, a dining treasure in the Abacos, located on the highest point in these islands. For many years following when we bareboat chartered sailboats in the Abacos, the Bluff House was a dining destination because of its great food and incredible views. In the early days, you called in your reservations on the VHF and made your selection from 2-3 dinner choices at the same time.

Upon docking at the Bluff House Marina, we learned that the restaurant on the Bluff was irreparably damaged by two back-to-back hurricanes in 2008. I was sad and disappointed to learn of its demise, despite its replacement down by the water by a new Boathouse bar and restaurant. I hiked the Bluff the next morning, stood on the site of the Bluff House, looking out at the Abacos view – the view has not changed a bit – a very beautiful bay with many boats at anchor.

We were unable to clear customs because of our late afternoon arrival so that became our first task on Tuesday morning, renting a golf cart and going to the customs office at the Green Turtle Marina. Since we had completed our pre-arrival custom clearance process online, clearing at the office went very smoothly.

Judy and I took our cart into New Plymouth to explore this island community post hurricane. While there are still signs of the destruction from Hurricane Dorian that devasted these islands in September, 2019, there has been remarkable recovery – reflecting their slogan “Abacos Strong”.

We were very excited to find Miss Emily’s Blue Bee Bar – which had been heavily damaged from the hurricane winds and flood surge. It has been completely renovated to look exactly like the original – a cement block structure painted blue. Miss Emily was the proprietor of this famous island bar until her death in 1997, when her daughter took over. Miss Emily created the world famous “Goombay Smash”, whose secret recipe is still protected by her family today. It is comprised of several different rums and the only hint they will give is: think “coconut and pineapple”. The granddaughters mix the concoction every day to store in one-gallon jugs so the juice can ferment for a few days. I ordered a drink to go with my lunch of grouper fingers and can attest to its consistency in flavor and effect, having been “smashed” on several previous occasions during our decades of sailing these waters. I also learned that Blue Bee’s sells their Goombay Smash by the gallon ($90). We purchased a gallon to share with our visiting family and guests.

A 75 year old secret recipe still being preserved, protected, and served by the third generation owners, through the challenges and trials of past hurricanes – don’t you just love a multigenerational family business!

After we completed our New Plymouth visit, we left our Bluff House dock to make the passage through Whale Cay pass while the weather was still calm. We anchored for the night at Baker’s Bay on the north end of Great Guana Cay, another of my very fond and nostalgic memories. Before 15 years ago, we could anchor on this pristine beachfront, dinghy around the tip of the island to experience some of the finest snorkeling in the islands.

For many years, a cruise ship company tried to develop a resort on this site, including the dredging of a deep water channel on passengers in launches to the Baker’s Bay shore, Green Turtle Cay, and Treasure Cay. This cruising destination was abandoned after several years because far too often, the wave rage caused by the unique weather and current issues in that area prevented the ships from entering the pass and the ships had to go elsewhere.

Then 15 years ago, a new development was started on the northern end of Great Guana, including a large man-made deep water marina. This has evolved into the very successful and exclusive Baker’s Bay resort, with a plethora of homes now lining the beach. In fact, we watched two mega yachts enter the harbor at sunset, having waited for the tide to rise.

While I am somewhat impressed with the success of Baker’s Bay, I cannot help but yearn for the quiet serene uninhabited beach setting on the Abacos and Atlantic sides of this island that existed for so many years -- nonetheless progress does prevail . . .

On Wednesday morning we hoisted anchor and cruised Harbour View Marina in Marsh Harbour, where we will dock for the next several days. We are looking forward to exploring how this community has rebuilt since Hurricane Dorian, which stalled over this area for four days. Our family and business supported the relief efforts at the time of the recovery by donating rolls of fabric and funding for one of the island’s early replacement fire engines.