An Abaco Gale!
16 April 2023
Richard Seaman
Hunkered down we were. Sunday evening was very calm as we celebrated Bill Earney’s birthday. Judy regretted not being able to anchor off Baker’s for the night and said she sure hopes we get a gale – to validate the Captain’s decision. Well, Judy got her wish – a stretch of the 3 worst weather days of the season! 25-35 knot winds, cloudy and rainy. We were so fortunate to be “hunkered down” between two mega yachts at the Baker’s Bay Club, providing us some excellent protection.
Though the weather was rather unpleasant, we did get to experience the Baker’s Bay development over the next several days. I was eager and very curious to see how this property was being developed. This was the place where, 41 years earlier, Tom Liber and I anchored the 38 ft Cabo Rico off of one of the world’s most beautiful beaches next to an Atlantic coral reef that offered us some of the best snorkeling I have ever experienced. Over the course of the next 30 years, I have shared anchorages and snorkeling in this area with family and friends.
I have watched Disney cruises try to develop this north end of Guana Cay into a cruiser’s resort, including digging a deep-water channel through Whale Cay pass. This investment failed after a few years because all too frequently the Whale Cay pass was too dangerous for even a cruise ship to enter. So, somewhat to my delight, Disney abandoned the resort investment.
Then along came the Baker’s Bay development. I watched this investment develop as the company dug its own channel and deep water harbor, entering from the Sea of Abaco. Over the past decade, this property has become peppered with residential homes. The marina is capable of accommodating mega yachts.
On Monday we were able to use one of Matt’s golf carts and do a self-tour of the development. With adventurous Bill at the helm, we explored most of the development – even the areas we were told not to enter without a member being with us.
We then took the cart into the community of Guana and rediscovered Nippers! It has been completely rebuilt since after being destroyed by Dorian. Unfortunately, with the 30 knot gale force winds, there were very few customers. We were able to sit at a table inside and watch the raging sea while sipping our Nipper juice.
On our return to Baker’s, we stopped by Grabber’s – again one of our favorite anchorage spots – where the Sailing Bozos ran aground on the white coral head unmarked in the harbor. Grabber’s too has become a resort community, complete with cottages and a swimming pool.
Bill delivered us safely back to Baker’s just before the cart battery ran out of juice!
I have always been skeptical and somewhat disappointed that this pristine area had succumbed to a very exclusive resort. My perception of this development did change once we were given the official tour of the property by Greg, the new general manager.
Although this resort was developed as a protected family retreat for the very wealthy, the immense size and the quality of the development seems to have had a positive economic impact on these out islands. Even with the destruction wrought by Hurricane Dorian four years ago, the islands seem to have rebounded and are economically vibrant. Many of the members of the Baker’s Bay Club made special efforts to get this development rebuilt so that the Bahamian employees could return to their jobs.
The Bahamian staff were all very friendly and helpful. I am sure these are coveted jobs. We had some interesting conversations with AJ, the bartender at the marina bar. He shared his experience of surviving Dorian – he and his siblings gathered at his Mother’s home so they were all together. Her home was damaged but did provide safe shelter for the family. AJ lost his home and was only recently called back to his job at Baker’s. But his attitude was one of immense gratitude. This was uniquely expressed when, after the engaging conversation he had with us, he refused to charge us for our drinks.
I believe that the very significant investment in the Baker’s Bay development has led to major investments in many other areas of the Abacos, such as the new Grabber’s. It is as though in the past decade, the world has discovered this treasure called the Abacos Islands. And although Hurricane Dorian was devastating, it has allowed rebuilding to be done to new updated quality standards, that will make these treasured islands all the more attractive.
While it is somewhat difficult to accept the impact of progress on these Bahamian out island jewels, I take solace and immense gratitude in having had the privilege of discovering these Abaco treasures 41 years ago and enjoying them over the next three decades with family and friends before the rest of the world discovered our paradise. And while the rest of the world are now able to enjoy these treasures, their experiences will never be the same as our early years of adventures in these pristine colorful waters – no matter the price.
Improving weather finally allowed us to depart from our Baker’s Bay refuge on Thursday to return to Marsh Harbour so that Bill and Suzan could catch their morning flight to Ft. Lauderdale on Friday. We enjoyed a meandering cruise back to Harbour View Marina and enjoyed a tasty dinner at Wally’s. A loud croaking above our patio table proved to be a frog in the rafters that later jumped down on Judy’s jacket, eliciting a shrill scream that I cannot ever hearing before, capturing the attention of the rest of the restaurants.
We sent Bill and Suzan off for the airport at 9:00 AM, only to hear them announce their return to the “Lady J” two hours later??? Their flight to Ft. Lauderdale was cancelled because of the 26 inches of rain that pummeled that area the day before. So we had crew for another 24 hours, unfortunately not long enough to depart the dock and add a more enjoyable experience to their Abacos cruising adventure.
Bill and Suzan did help us provision at Maxwell’s Saturday morning before they departed for the airport once again. Our cab driver was “Lady K”. When we tried to contact her after finishing our grocery shopping, I asked another cabbie to call her. He said he would because “Lady K” was his sister. In the meantime, Bill commandeered another cab. As we were loading, I mentioned that this was a bit awkward – our cab driver said no worries – “Lady K”?? I am her father. Truly a family business!
After Bill and Suzan left once again for the airport, Judy and I departed our Harbour View dock and headed to Tahiti Beach to enjoy a few days at one of our very favorite anchorages.