We have spent the past few days anchored at Taravai Island, just south of Mangareva. We had a great time snorkling, kayaking and paddling, but the hightlight was a beach BBQ and potluck that we were invited to by a couple who live on the island.  Valerie and Herve have been inviting cruising boats to their beautiful garden property for Sunday BBQ’s for the past 12 years. Herve is a fisherman and farmer born and raised in the Gambiers and Valerie is an amazing artist, originally from Tahiti, whose medium is drawings done with glue and different colored sand and dirt that she collects from her island. Much like the sand paintings of the Navajo and just as intricate and beautiful. They are completely self sustained on their little island. The property is full of avocado, pamplemouse, banana, lemon and lime trees. The island has feral pigs, goats and chickens left by previous owners, which they hunt or trap as needed. Valerie was explaining to me how the hens give away the
location of their nests by causing a rukus after laying their eggs, that’s how she knows where to look. She explained she always leaves one egg in the nest because they can’t count and won’t return to the same nest if all the eggs are gone. Herve knows what fish are safe to eat and where to get them easily. They have a water collection system attached to their roof which empties into a huge tank and enough solar panels for all their electrical needs. Valerie and Herve have two sons both of whom were home-schooled until recently when the younger son decided he was having more fun going to school in Rikitea. Their older son joined the French Air Force and is on his way to France.

We were a small group this Sunday of 5 boats, 13 people total. 3 boats from France, 1 from Norway and us. Lucky for us English is the Language that binds us all. We ate fresh roasted pig from the island and shared creative appitizers and side dishes which everyone contributed. There was a bocci ball game that I sucked at, but most of all after 6 weeks of being in the company of two, it was exhilerating to be in the company of others, swaping stories, exchanging ideas and making new friends. For Mike and I the Sunday BBQ was our first opportunity to meet other cruisers since arriving in French Polynesia. For Valerie and Herve being isloated on a tiny island, it is a way to be social, make friends and expierence different cultures without leaving home.

Life in the Gambiers is difinately off the beaten path. Except for a handful of cruising boats, mostly from France, we haven’t see any tourists or anything tourist related. There aren’t any resorts or hotels, official restuarants or bars. The old mission style church is the most prominante structure in town and the only other identifiable buildings are the medical clinic, pst office and the Gendarmarie, which also serves as the coast guard, fire department and the police.  The main industry here is pearl farming with the oysters attached to lines suported by thousands of black and blue bouys scattered throughout the lagoon, often just below the surface. These add interest to navigating through the coral heads. 

Since we arrived on a Friday and could not check in until Monday we had to stay in the main achorage just off of Rikitea and, craving a little exercise we decided to hike up Mt Duff, the highest peak on all the islands. It was a difficult, 1400 foot climb, at times so steep that ropes tied between the trees were provided so you could pull yourself up the hill. The trail wound it’s way through palms and mimosa trees, giving way to pine forest as we moved up the hill.  Along the trail we found and were able to forage a bit including a grapefruit-like citrus call pamplemouse, some type of sweet red berry and very spicy red chili’s. Once on top we got a fantastic view of the entire archipelago. We were also directly above the town and were just in time for a birds eye view of a traditional Polynesian ceremony with drums and dancing with the dancers wearing traditional woven headresses and grass skirts. Our little hike turned out to be a full body workout and by the time we g
ot back
down our heads were spinning and our sea legs wobbly. It probably wasn’t the best way to aclimate to land. But the hike was well worth it. 

Once we were officially checked in we were free to roam so we pulled anchor and snaked our way through pearl farm bouys and coral heads to the barrier reef and dropped anchor behind a tiny ilsland called One Palm Motu which was nothing more than a patch of sand and, you guessed it, one palm tree. Unlike in Chile we don’t have to tie additional lines to trees, however, with all the surrounding coral heads we have to suspend our anchor chain with bouys so that it floats above the coral without damaging it. 

Speaking of coral, the snokling is the best we have ever expierenced. The water is crystal clear and beautiful turquoise blue over the sandy areas. When you look sideways underwater it feels like you can see all the way to the horizon. Ciguatera poisoning is a risk throughout the region, particularly here, so the fish are not hunted. As a result they are big, numerous and relatively tame. 

Today we moved to the south side of Taruvai Island as some light northerlies are predicted. We went for a paddle over the reef on our SUPs and saw lots of huge, flourescent blue parrotfish, giant angelfish and a couple of black tipped reef sharks.




Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.

When I woke up the islands appeared so close it looked as though we would be there within minutes. It actually took another 7 hours. It was deceiving because the islands are surrounded by a reef which we had to skirt around before entering the marked channel, the only safe route to the main village of Rikitea. As we turned into the channel the depthsounder went from no registration because it was so deep to 4-5 meters instantly. The water went from the intense azure blue to a crystal clear aquamarine dotted with coral heads and a white sand bottom.  Hibiscus flowers floated on the surface like rose petels before a bride, and as we rounded the last turn into the Village of Rikitea we heard the sound of Polynesian drums start up in a welcome precussion. The long anticipated destination on the chart is now a reality. 

With the anchor down, there was silence. The boat sat motionless after 5 weeks of nonstop rocking and rolling. It was like someone pulled the plug, our energy completely drained and the excitment of our arrival petered out as our need for a nap overcame us.

As soon as we popped our heads out after our little nap the first of our closest boat neighbors came by with a bag of fresh fruit and a warm welcome. Later, the neighbors on our other side came by to say hello and they too brought us a bag of fresh fruit and homemade banana bread.  Both neighbors spoke english which was a thrill, having conversation with people other than ourselves and a really nice transition from isolation to civilazation. But civilization is was and it was time to check in with officials, so we dropped the dinghy and rowed to shore. After over 5 weeks on the boat our heads were spinning and we were staggering like drunken sailors as we made our way to the Gendarmerie, proudly bearing our passports, bond exemptions, health certificates, visa permissions and clearance papers from Chile.  Of course no one was there, it was Friday afternoon and they were out snorkling.  

We had read in the Gambier guide that there have been times when 35 boats were anchored up in Rikitea and at other times a mere handfull, so it was a mystery how many other cruisering boats would be here when we showed up. There were 4 boats in the anchorage and on AIS we spotted 6 others in the outlying anchorages, making it a total of 11 boats including us in the entire archipelago. We have been reading reports of 50 boats in a single anchorage in the Marquesas, so we will try to spend as much time as we can here before heading North. 




Sent from Iridium Mail & Web.

Spotted the peaks of Mangareva Island in the moonlight this morning a few hours before sunrise. We have been motoring for the past 2 days, this past night in a dead calm. I have never seen an open ocean sea so flat. The clouds, moon and stars are reflected perfectly, slightly undulating like a funhouse mirror. By a trick of the light the horizon is obscured so that the Gambiers appear to be floating above the water. Every now and then I can catch a whiff of land. Looks like a 10:30 arrival at the pass and a couple hours after that until we arrive in the anchorage off Rikitea.

Spotted the peaks of Mangareva Island in the moonlight this morning a few hours before sunrise. We have been motoring for the past 2 days, this past night in a dead calm. I have never seen an open ocean sea so flat. The clouds, moon and stars are reflected perfectly, slightly undulating like a funhouse mirror. By a trick of the light the horizon is obscured so that the Gambiers appear to be floating above the water. Every now and then I can catch a whiff of land. Looks like a 10:30 arrival at the pass and a couple hours after that until we arrive in the anchorage off Rikitea.

I want to give a shout out to my dad. Our onshore telecommunications operator, route supervisor, and WORDLE master. Every morning began with a G’ morning text from my Dad. First he let us know if we were on course, how many miles to our destination and our speed. Remember the phrase Do you know where your children are? 
It also was the signal to join in the family WORDLE challenge.  Dad and I would play and after I got a BINGO, Mike got to play. Through my dad we were indirectly connected to all the WORDLE’rs in my family and how many tries it took them, bragging or consoling each other. It was a daily routine we very much looked forward to. 

Cruising today is very different from the first time I set out on an ocean voyage back in 1981. That cruise traumatized my parents and I feel terrible about it to this day. We had absolutely no communication and I was grossly mistaken on our ETA as well as our ability to communicate via VHF Marine Operator, causing them panic to the extent that they had the Coast Guard and ships on the look out for us. 

The remarkable ability to communicate with such ease and fluidity with texts and phone calls while in the middle of the ocean has truly changed the dynamics of cruising for me and my family. Being able to communicate instantly eliminates the worry of the unknown, gives us peace of mind and allows us all to relax and enjoy the journey together. I appreciate and am so grateful that my parents, both pushing 90, have kept up with comminications technology, especially my mother for whom the tech world is completely alien yet who is able to keep in touch via text and email. As always I am grateful for the enthusiastic support my parents have given Mike and I as we continue our circumnavigation around the world.