Bugs and Wind
07 March 2020
Annette and Mike
The longer we're here the more I appreciate and respect the delicate balance of the environment we are living in. For the last few days the temperature was unusually warm, high 60's ,low 70's, and very little wind. Great days for traveling north. But, with the balmy weather came the hoards of biting gnats, making it impossible to be outside except for anchoring. We cover ourselves from head to toe including head nets and still they bite. Every time a door is opened hundreds swarm in providing the next hour of entertainment swatting and vacuuming the pesky buggers up. It's very frustrating to be cooped up inside because of little critters. But today we're back to normal Patagonia weather, cold temperatures, wind and lots and lots of rain. The gnats are lying low, waterfalls are over flowing and rainbows fill the air. Time to put on our red survival suits and go outside to play.
Thursday evening, after a long, 57 mile travel day we chose an anchorage that was easy and didn't require us to tie to trees. The guide book described it as a secure anchorage, protected from wind in all directions, which was important because a strong front was forecast to come through the next day. Once through the narrow entrance, that we slipped through with the rocks just feet on either side, it looked safe enough, but we were a little skeptical as it seemed that the wind was free to blow down its length. Sure enough, when the front passed the next day we were treated to 50+ knot williwaws that would form at the head of the estero and barrel down on us as walls of wind that whipped the water into white froth and filled the air with clouds of spindrift. The anchor held fast, but it was not a relaxing afternoon. Another front was due the next morning so, as soon as the wind died down, we slipped out through the opening and moved to better spot. We went 3 miles up a fiord between steep granite walls and waterfalls to a tight little nook where we could back in and tie to the trees. Along the way we passed right through a pod of orcas, the first we have seen this year. When the front arrived this morning we sat in calm water, watching the whitecaps in the fiord. Much better.
As the front passed the temperature dropped, the rain poured down and the bugs have lost their nerve. It feels like we are in Patagonia again.