Still waiting for a weather window to head north to the Marquesas. Looking like we should be able to head out tomorrow. For the past week we have been anchoring at different spots in the archpelago. First, we spent a couple of days back at Taruvai, visiting with Herve and Valerie. We then moved over to Akamaru island where we anchored behind Mekiro Islet. We had a nice hike to the top of Mekiro and picked up some coconuts on the beach on the way back. Since then we've been eating coconut banana bread, coconut banana pancakes and coconut bran muffins. The snorkeling there was fantastic with coral gardens that looked like castles and lots of fish. We saw turtles and black tip reef sharks, both trailing remoras, every time we got in the water.

After a quick resupply in Rikitea we visited Aukena Island. After anchoring we noticed there was a shack on shore so in the morning we launched the dinghy and went for a visit. We met the owner on the beach who is there as caretaker for the old church just inland. We couldn't talk much due to the language barrier but he was a very cheerful dude and loaded us up with fruit. He was very proud to show us the pound or two of weed that he had drying on some old corrugated tin, which may account for the cheerfulness.

The next day we went north to False Pass which is a break in the barrier reef where you can take your dinghy through and snorkel on the outside of the reef with the big critters. It is only a 4 mile trip and, after scanning the route with binoculars and seeing only a few pearl farm buoys we headed out. Soon enough, though, we discovered that the pearl buoys are in this area are set in long strings 4-6 feet below the surface, just shallow enough to be a problem for our rudders. We crept through at one knot but still managed to clip a buoy with a rudder. From now on no more shortcuts. Once we arrived we had some trouble finding a spot where the anchor would set. We believe the bottom is mostly either shallow sand over coral or coral rubble but after 7 tries we finally got it to stick. Once in the water outside the pass we did see a lot of fish, as well as some bigger black tips and a small nurse shark. The water was not as clear as we had hoped, though, so the next day we went further north to a place just south of One Palm Motu where we had anchored several weeks ago and found crystal clear water. We spent a couple of days there in water that was not only clear but had warmed to 77 degrees in the sunny weather. It was pretty idyllic until well after dark on our last night there when a squall hit with winds up to 35 knots. We ended up having to leave and head back to Rikitea where we arrived the night before Bastille Day or the Fete Nacionale and the end of the Heiva celebration. 

We went ashore for the festivities and a long hike in the rain to a rumored avocado tree where windfall avocados could be had. We did beat the rats to a few so it's guacamole for happy hour for the next few weeks.

Today we are taking care of last minute projects before leaving for the Marquesas tomorrow. We will miss the Gambiers, but the weather gets worse every week, the seawater temperature is down to 73 degrees and we are getting tired of the rain.