The Tuamotus
29 April 2023
Annette
I've been trying to come up with interesting things to blog about in the Tuamotus, but I feel like it's a cliche if I talk about the endless sunshine, the amazing water color, the bountiful tropical fish and sharks we snorkel with everyday, in addition to perfect sailing conditions. However, I will say, atolls are unique, like craters in the middle of the ocean. They are basically very narrow strips of coral reef and sand forming rings out in the middle of he ocean, water inside and out. Really nothing much at'all. I just had to say that. But seriously, the amount of sea life and beauty is overwhelming.
The hot trend in the Tuamoto's is kiting and wing sailing on foils. It's the perfect place for these activities in the flat waters of the atolls. Protected from the outside swell and sea chop, a steady 10 to 15 knot trade wind from the east and endless space make for perfect conditions. Mike and I watch with envy as one cruising boat after another launch their rigs and fly off onto the horizon. Next season we'll be prepared with our own wings.
Maybe something of interest is our stowaway gecko community. While in the boatyard in Hiva Oa we picked up a handful of lizards who failed to jump ship before we were launched back into the water, so now they are stranded on our floating island. They actually make really fun and helpful pets. During the day they stay pretty hidden in the nooks and crannies around the boat, until we move a curtain or some random object that they are hiding behind startling us both. In the evenings we hear their little chirps and croaks and watch them boldly venture out, hunting the insects that are attracted to the lights on the boat. It's a very nice symbiotic relationship. We were a bit concerned about their food supply on our 4 day passage from Hiva Oa to Makemo, but they survived just fine preying on the jumping spiders and misc. tidbits that also stowed away. For now they have a pretty easy life aboard Rum Doxy, free from predators, but once we haul out again in Riatea, it's back to fending for themselves.
We are now at our second atoll, Fatarava, which is quite a contrast from Makemo in that it is larger and a tourist destination with resort accommodations. It is also a popular spot for the mega yachts. Rum Doxy feels dwarfed surrounded by many 70 foot and bigger catamarans. Last night we enjoyed a final dinner out together with our friends on S/V Saphira, Peter, Jennifer, Holly their daughter and her friend Nala, before we head our seperate ways tomorrow morning. The Francis family are some of the nicest people we've ever met cruising. We feel so fortunate to have met them and for the opportunity to share some really enjoyable, enlightening evenings together on their amazing biplane rig Chris White catamaran. We really hope to meet up with them again down the way.
Next stop Moorea.