A Boat Too Far

In 2005 we bought a 46' catamaran in Thailand as a wreck. We removed the cabin, bridgedeck, main crossbeam and all the bulkheads then completely redisigned and rebuilt her in Phuket over the course of 5 years. It seemed like a good idea at the time..

22 May 2023
13 May 2023
05 May 2023
02 May 2023
29 April 2023
23 April 2023
15 April 2023
10 April 2023
26 March 2023
13 September 2022
11 September 2022
01 September 2022
18 August 2022
13 August 2022
10 August 2022
08 August 2022
01 August 2022
29 July 2022
26 July 2022
24 July 2022

Bloody Mary's

22 May 2023
For Mother’s Day Mike went all out and took me to Bora Bora for a Holiday, even promised me a fancy dinner out on the town. We decided on Bloody Mary’s which has been around since 1979 and claims to be the resturant that all the celebreties and famous people go to. They even have a wooden sign at the entrance listing the names of all the attendees. It is the ultimate tourist experience with white sand floors, thatched roof, tiki torches and live Polynesian music. We got lucky and picked up a mooring ball in an anchorage right in front of the restaurant where BM has it’s own exclusive dock. At 5 o clock, we donned our best evening wear and headed over. The place looked deserted, except for a group of 4 people just leaving. I was hesitant to go in but one of the guys leaving said it was a real fun place! So we sidled up to the tiki bar, ordered beers and connected to internet, the first connection we had in weeks. Before I could even check my email there were 6 of us s
at the bar, all Americans, and the conversation started flowing. One couple, from Hawaii, were off the cruise ship anchored in the bay, the other 2 couples were chartering sail boats, one from SF the other from Michigan. Before we knew it the resturant had filled up and the couples we were visiting with at the bar were being seated for dinner. Having not made a reservation we were about to leave when another couple sat next to us and started speaking German to one another. My ears perked up and I just had to say hello. We ended up closing the place down in the wonderful company of Frank and Sabine from Weisbaden, Germay. They invited us to join them for dinner at their table, where we shared fun experiences, good wine and the most amazing dinner. I had the local specialty, Mahi Mahi with vanilla sauce and Mike of course had a rib eye steak with pepper sauce.  It was a fantastic Mother’s day and I’ll always remember Bloody Mary’s. 

We spent the 3 days circumnavigating the island taking in Bora Bora’s dream like setting. The water which kaliedescopes sapphire, indigo and turquoise, is framed with a white sand reef and palm covered motus, aka islands on the reef. Every motu in Bora Bora is privately owned by an exclusive resort with bungalows over the water. The island in the center of the reef is a soaring rainforest with spires and pinnacles, loosely draped in clouds and laced with rainbows. It has high end resturants, all the water activites above and below the surface and Dream Yacht charters of all kinds. It truely is a fantasy Island.


13 May 2023
We left Huahine Wednesday morning, hoping the forecasted 15 knot breeze would give us a pleasant downwind sail to Tahaa, but the forecast was wrong. For the first 2 hours of the 25 mile crossing we motored with 6 knots of wind from behind, Then the wind started up from the NE and by the time we were at the entrance through the reef into Tahaa the wind was blowing 25 knots with 3 meter seas. The passage in looked a bit narrow and turbulent from the outside, but we sailed through with no problem. We found a nice sandy 2 meter shelf to drop anchor on around 2:30 in the afternoon.  By then the clouds were so low and dark all around it looked like nightfall, the wind was gusting up to 39 knots and we were happy to be safely tucked behind the reef. It remained dark and stormy the whole day and the next, keeping us boat bound but encouraging us to get some boat projects done. Saturday was sunshine and rainbows, we sailed  4.5 miles up the coast for a change in scenery, found an
anchorage on the shelf of the fringing reef, dropped the hook and watched the sunset over Bora Bora, just 16 miles away.

On Vacation

05 May 2023
The boatyard mud and grime is now a faded memory washed away. Arriving to the Tuamotus was the beginning of a new adventure. 77 little Atolls 800-1000 miles away from urbanization. Most are sparsley populated, if Atoll, just had to say it again. These distant, isloted destinations with little human influence provide the experience of a wilderness exploration. Now, arriving into Moorea is like being On Vaction. Moorea and Bora Bora are the Crown Jewels of French Polynesia, the romantic get away with fancy bungalows sprawled over crystal clear lagoons behind barrier reefs. A place you can rent motor quads, jet skies, parasail, snorkle, dive, kiteboard, even sail around……all with the stunning back drop view of the lush volcanic peaks that are iconic to Moorea. Also the location used to film the classic musical South Pacific.  We’ve been here 5 days and have moved our floating bungalow to 3 different anchorages, getting the full experience from deep, quiet bays surround
ed by
mountains to the busy and populated shallow lagoons. We toured the inland valleys and coastal towns with our old clunker bicycles, ate lunch out at a local Snack, aka resturant, and even made time to hang around in the hammock. As our days are numbered we keep an eye out for the next good weather window coming up to continue west toward the Island of Raiatea. In Raiatea we get to haul out again,yipee, in order to store Rum Doxy while we go home to welcome our precious granddaughter’s arrival, due July 1st. 

Living the cruising life isn’t always a Vacation, on the contrary it’s a liestyle with all the same chores, hassels and frustrations as living in a house on shore but when you drop anchor in Moorea, you are on vacation.


02 May 2023
We left Fakarava and the Tuamotos the other day for the 2 day passage to Moorea. The forecast was for light winds from the northwest, giving us a downwind sail, becoming very light the second day. We hoped we would not have to motor. As it turned out, we need not have worried. Day one was as promised and we flew the spinnaker all day. The night was mellow, but we were able to sail and had the spinnaker up again at first light. It was another beautiful day, until it wasn’t. In the early afternoon we sailed into a black wall of squalls with shifting winds and lightning all around. We went through our drill of putting all movable electronics in our ammo box Faraday cages, switched to our smallest sail plan and settled in to wait it out. As the sun went down, what looked like the last squall passed but, as it did, the wind shifted to the southwest and picked up to 35 knots. With our smallest sails up we were OK, but sailing into double digit speeds, which does not make for a
restfull night. We dropped all sail which kept our speed at 5-6 knots. The lightning passed us by and we were able to fill our water tanks with rain water. The rest of the night was uneventful and we sighted the lights of Tahiti just before sunrise. We sailed on by and pulled into Cook’s bay on Moorea as the morning sun lit the island’s peaks and the local outrigger club paddled by. Can’t get the song Bali Hai out of our heads as they used this area as the setting for the movie South Pacific. 

After resting up yesterday we took our bikes ashore today and explored the northern part of the island. It is quite a change being surrounded by lush, green valleys and volcanic peaks after the flat, dry atolls of the Tuamotus. We plan on spending a few more days poking around here before heading northwest to Huahine.

The Tuamotus

29 April 2023
I’ve been trying to come up with interesting things to blog about in  the Tuamotus, but I feel like it’s a cliche if Italk about the endless sunshine, the amazing water color, the bountiful tropical fish and sharks we snorkel with everyday, in addition to perfect sailing conditions. However, I will say, atolls are unique, like craters in the middle of the ocean. They are basically very narrow strips of coral reef and sand forming rings out in the middle of he ocean, water inside and out.  Really nothing much at’all…. I just had to say that. But seriously, the amount of sea life and beauty is overwhelming.

The hot trend in the Tuamoto’s is kiting and wing sailing on foils. It’s the perfect place for these activities in the flat waters of the atolls. Protected from the outside swell and sea chop, a steady 10 to 15 knot trade wind from the east and endless space make for perfect conditions. Mike and I watch with envy as one cruising boat after another launch their rigs and fly off onto the horizon. Next season we’ll be prepared with our own wings.

Maybe something of interest is our stowaway gecko community. While in the boatyard in Hiva Oa we picked up a handful of lizards who failed to jump ship before we were launched back into the water, so now they are stranded on our floating island. They actually make really fun and helpful pets. During the day they stay pretty hidden in the nooks and crannies around the boat, untill we move a curtain or some random object that they are hiding behind startling us both. In the evenings we hear their little chirps and croaks and watch them boldly venture out, hunting the insects that are attracted to the lights on the boat. It’s a very nice symbiotic relationship. We were a bit concerned about their food supply on our 4 day passage from Hiva Oa to Makemo, but they survived just fine preying on the jumping spiders and misc. tidbits that also stowed away. For now they have a pretty easy life aboard Rum Doxy, free from predators, but once we haul out again in Riatea, it’s back to
for themselves.

We are now at our second atoll, Fatarava, which is quite a contrast from Makemo in that it is larger and a tourist destination with resosrt accomodations. It is also a popular spot for the mega yachts. Rum Doxy feels dwarfed surrounded by many 70 foot and bigger catamarans. Last night we enjoyed a final dinner out together with our friends on S/V Saphira, Peter, Jennifer, Holly their daughter and her friend Nala, before we head our seperate ways tomorrow morning. The Francis family are some of the nicest people we’ve ever met cruising. We feel so fortunate to have met them and for the opportunity to share some really enjoyable, enlightening evenings together on their amazing biplane rig Chris White catamaran. We really hope to meet up with them again down the way.

Next stop Moorea.

Makemo west

23 April 2023
We have moved to the northwest end of Makemo atoll to wait out a rare westerly blow as a low passes to the south of us. We managed to find a patch of sand between the coral heads and, after setting the anchor, attached pearl farm floats that we collected in the Gambiers to the chain as we let it out to float the chain above the coral heads. This not only protects the delicate coral but avoids getting our chain caught so we don’t have to dive to free it.

 We have been spending our time poking around the motus and snorkeling in the pass. We take the dinghy to the pass on a rising tide and ride the current in. The number of fish is amazing, and the coral is healthy. Along with the usual suspects we have seen a number of large morays grinning at us as we drift past, as well as big groupers, each with a trumpet fish in attendance. The water is transparent and, as the current sweeps us along the edge of the drop off, it feels like we are soaring over the bottom 85 feet below. 

We have been impressed by the number of sharks that we have seen at this end of the atoll. Whether snorkeling at the pass, paddling in the shallows, walking on the beach or looking off the back of the boat we see sharks constantly. Mostly small black tips, white tips and greys, although our friends on Saphira twice saw unidentified big fellas in the pass. Fortunately we missed them. I suppose the sharks are a sign of a healthy ecosystem and they do not seem much interested in us, but they could be a little more discreet. 

Our plan today is to make water, peddle our kayak around visiting with the other boats and get ready to leave tommorow at slack tide for Fakarava atoll, 87 miles to the west.
Vessel Name: Rum Doxy
Vessel Make/Model: 46' Custom Catamaran
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Mike Reed, Annette Reed
Extra: A "rum doxy" is 18th century pirate-speak for a woman of remarkable character and ambiguous virtue
Rum Doxy 's Photos - Alaska
Photos 1 to 97 of 97 | Main
We stopped at Afognak Is. on our way to Prince William Sound. There were several grizzlies on the beach eating dead salmon, including this sow and her 2 cubs. We got in the kayak for a closer look and were able to get within 50 feet or so until we remembered that bears are good swimmers.
Tiger glacier in PWS.
And the nearby Chenega Glacier.
Annette enjoying the view from her chair.
The touchscreen on our plotter won
Clearing skies at 7 Fathom Hole in PWS.
Annette empties a clip into an undeserving clump of seaweed.
Annette with her salmon.
Negotiating the entrance to Disk Is. An 80
At anchor at Disk Is.
Disk Is. With the peaks of Knight Is. in the background.
Anywhere, SE Alaska.
The Chugatch Mountains from Heather Bay in PWS.
Annette finds a way to keep her hands warm and dry while pulling anchor.
Heather Bay.
Chugatch mountains from Heather Bay.
Picking blueberries at Disk Is.
Port Etches, where we sat out a front with 50 knot gusts and rain for 3 days waiting to make a break for Icy bay. We watched a young grizzly fishing in the stream here.
The weather finally clears at Port Etches and we leave PWS for Icy Bay.
A relatively uneventful 2 days to Icy Bay and we find ourselves at anchor with the 18,000 foot Mt. Saint Elias as a backdrop. The whole Saint Elias and Fairweather ranges that line the seacoast between PWS and Southeast Alaska are all the more impressive as they rise to heights of 15,000 to nearly 20,000 feet right off the beach.
Ice in Icy Bay.
The Guyot Glacier and berg in Icy Bay. We were only able to approach within about 6 miles of the glacier due to all the ice in the bay.
Bigger than Yosemite Falls, fed by the giant glacier just peeking over the ridge and it doesn
We left Icy Bay and headed down the coast to Yakutat Bay, home of the Hubbard Glacier. At 6 miles across where it reaches the ocean, the largest tidal glacier in the world.
The left half of the Hubbard Glacier. Once again we were prevented from getting closer by the ice pack in the bay, but still spectacular, even from a distance.
Motoring down the coast from Yakutat towards the Inside Passage and Glacier Bay we were treated to a whale show with the Fairweather Mountains as backdrop.
Heading down the coast from Icy Bay to Yakutat with the Saint Elias Range as a backdrop.
The Fairweathers.
La Perouse Glacier as it comes out the mountains into the ocean.
Just north of Cape Spencer and the Inside Passage.
Graves Cove, just outside Cape Spencer.
A black bear at Graves Cove.
Moonrise at Inian Island, just outside Glacier Bay.
Young bull moose in Glacier Bay. We were in Glacier Bay for a week and it rained every day so we didn
At anchor in Reed
Off to explore the Glacier.
The things you see on the beach when you
Into the belly of the beast.
Annette samples a stranded bergy bit. We brought a couple pieces back to the boat for margaritas.
Annette conquers the glacier.
One way of thawing feet was to roast them on the stove. Not only did it warm your feet but added a delicate scent to the cabin
Red Squirrel ready to pounce.
We kept our eyes peeled on these rocky slopes for mountain goats.
We are never far from a sea otter.
The Lamplugh Glacier.
Like motoring through a "slushie".
Tufted Puffins.
Leaving Glacier Bay we rounded the tip of Point Retreat and it
We stopped in Auke Bay, just North of Juneau, and rode our bikes to the Mendenhall Glacier. Here is the view from the bike path looking at the glacier over a field of fireweed gone to seed.
Mendenhall River.
Falls next to the Glacier.
The view from the visitor center.
And from the beach.
As we were walking on the beach we heard an explosion and looked over in time to watch this iceberg break in half and roll over.
Leaving Auke Bay.
Looking up Taku Arm just south of Juneau.
Taku Harbor, south of Juneau. There was a tree growing from the top of each one of these pilings. Later in the evening we watched a black bear sow and her 3 cubs fishing in the stream.
A highlight of the trip was a visit to Tracy Arm and the North and South Sawyer Glaciers at the head. Here we are heading up the arm.
North Sawyer Glacier. This was the only Glacier we encountered whose ice discharge was such that we could weave our way through it and sneak up next to the glacier.
We got as close as we dared but the ice face was over 100
South Sawyer Glacier. This is a very active galcier with peals of thunder coming from the ice every few minutes.
Icy Falls.
We were constantly surrounded by polished granite domes, waterfalls, hanging glaciers and jagged peaks.
North Sawyer.