A Boat Too Far

In 2005 we bought a 46' catamaran in Thailand as a wreck. We removed the cabin, bridgedeck, main crossbeam and all the bulkheads then completely redisigned and rebuilt her in Phuket over the course of 5 years. It seemed like a good idea at the time..

18 October 2019 | Puerto Aguirre
13 October 2019 | Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda
11 October 2019 | Puerto Quellon
02 October 2019 | Valdivia, Chile
19 April 2019
03 April 2019
29 March 2019
20 March 2019
17 March 2019
11 March 2019
08 March 2019
05 March 2019
03 March 2019
24 February 2019 | Bahia de Corcovado
21 February 2019 | Puerto Montt
14 February 2019
13 February 2019

Puerto Aguirre

18 October 2019 | Puerto Aguirre
Mike Reed
We are settled in next to the village of Puerto Aguirre so that we can make a run via ferry and bus to the Argentine border to renew our visas. With a population of 1800, Puerto Aguirre is the hub of the Huichol Islands and the last civilization we will encounter until we get to Puerto Eden in the Southern Canals, billed as the most remote settlement on Earth. PA has kind of an 18th century piratical charm with it's simple fisherman's cottages and and one room shops. As small as it is, you can usually find what you need here. Within minutes of stepping ashore we stumbled across a place selling propane bottles whose owner directed us to another shack where we found a regulator and hose, so we no longer have to ration propane. This means more hot showers and we can brew all the beer we want with a clear conscience.

Nose mitten

13 October 2019 | Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda
Annette Reed
The latest spring fashion in Northern Patagonia. I decided that the pom pom on my beanie was a little outdated, so I removed it. Mike being the fashion forward guy he is designed a nose mitten for me from the fleece that made up the ball. I got a twofer, since my nose was not only cold but runny from a cold, better than a hankie!
We are now at latitude 43 degrees. The days are getting longer (sunsets now at 8:10pm), the water temperature is getting colder and we are entering the deep channels lined with snow capped peaks. Our priorities, pleasures and challenges have drastically changed since leaving Valdivia, not to mention California. Once we leave the dock everything becomes a precious commodity. Fuel is the number one. In the tropics the sunshine, wind and solar supply us with most of our energy needs, but down here sunshine is one of those precious commodities we just can't get enough of to handle our basic needs. So things like hot showers, baked goods and using an outboard motor are rationed on a "as need" basis. But we do have plenty of eggs! And the other good thing is the fresh produce lasts forever because the refrigerator is actually the same temperature as the cabin.

On the Road Again

11 October 2019 | Puerto Quellon
Mike Reed
We had an uncomfortable but uneventful trip down to the canals from Valdivia and are now taking advantage of whatever wind we can get to head south. Unfortunately, the wind only blows from the north during the passage of a front, so we sail a lot in the rain. We do get a bit of a view every now and then and Chile in the springtime is beautiful. Yellow flowers and green pastures cover the hillsides in the northern canals. We should lose the wind this afternoon, but the sun may come out so we don't mind a bit of motoring. Tonight we are anchored at Puerto Quellon, whose main claim to fame is that it is the southern terminus of the Pan-American Highway, the other end being in Anchorage, Alaska.

Getting ready to head south

02 October 2019 | Valdivia, Chile
Mike | Bloody freezing
We have been back on the boat in Valdivia for the past month getting ready to head south. The season down here is late winter/early spring and the weather has been typical. Lots of rain with sunshine and cold when it clears. We took the above photo this morning. The big number is the temperature in the cabin and the little number is the temperature outside. For the metrically challenged that's 39° and 32°. No worries though, the diesel heaters take the chill off pretty quickly. We find that the cold weather is actually more comfortable than the hot weather in the tropics as it is a lot easier to get warm when it's cold than to get cool when it's hot. We have new anchor chain arriving from Santiago today, and a fuel truck will deliver 850 liters of fuel tomorrow. It looks like a good weather window for heading south this weekend. Our plan is to head to Puerto Aysen where we can renew our visas and then take our time meandering down the canals to Puerto Williams. We will spend a little time down there, then make our way back north in March, hoping to arrive back in Valdivia by late April, where we will store the boat for the winter again.

Have you ever...?

19 April 2019
Annette Reed
Who would have thought getting on the bus could be so difficult? It began with our first attempt to make a 3 day trip over to Bariloche, Argentina. We needed to get off the boat, see some mountains and renew our Chilean visas. It was my birthday so we splurged and made reservations at a nice hotel on the lake, planned our itinerary, closed up the boat and headed for the bus station. Have you ever gone up to the ticket counter to buy tickets, passport in hand, but forgot the little tourist cards they gave you when you entered the country? We have. "No tourist card, no bus" we were told. Tails between our legs we returned home.

Our second attempt was 5 days later. We made reservations at the same hotel, closed up the boat, collected our passports and tourist cards and headed for the local bus stop to catch the bus into town and the main terminal for the bus to Bariloche. Have you ever got up early on a Sunday morning in order to catch the city bus to the main bus terminal, only to find that the buses don't run on Sunday? We have. Never mind, we stuck out our thumbs and 35 minutes later a nice young man on his way to Grandma's picked us up and took us right to the station. We got the last seats on the bus with 3 minutes to spare.

Our time spent in Bariloche was amazing and I'll tell that story later. We checked out of our hotel and made our way to the main terminal. Have you ever found the correct city bus at the right time and made it to the main bus terminal with all your important papers in hand 45 minutes early only to be told there is not a single seat left on the only bus? We have.
There's something to be said for traveling with all inclusive package deals where everything is taken care of for you, but what's the fun in that?

Chiloe to Valdivia 4/4-4/5 2019

13 April 2019
Annette Reed
The 140 mile passage from Isla Chiloe to Valdivia took 28 hours. We motor sailed through large south swells on the beam and very choppy seas. Skies were clear, light winds from the SW, not a single pesky fishing boat and the Humbolt current actually flowed in the right direction, north, giving us a lift. It took a little while to get used to being in Blue Water again but overall it was a fast and easy trip.
So now we are here at Alowplast Marina and Boatyard located on the beautiful Rio Valdivia where Rum Doxy will hang out until we return again next season. From our dock looking out our port windows we are surrounded by heavily forested hillsides, golden grass marshes and the steady ebb and flow of river water. Determining the ebb or flow of the river is easy by watching resting Great Grebes float backwards in the water. Looking out the starboard windows is the Alowplast boat yard where the Chris White Catamarans are built. We feel right at home here nestled among these multi million dollar catamarans. Chris White catamarans are one of the rare forward cockpit designs similar to ours.
As usual we do have an extensive list of repairs, maintenance and additions to do on the boat before we head down to Southern Patagonia next season.
But before we dive into heavy boat work we need to get off the boat, stretch our legs, have a look around and get our visas renewed in Bariloche, Argintina.

Vessel Name: Rum Doxy
Vessel Make/Model: 46' Custom Catamaran
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Mike Reed, Annette Reed
Extra: A "rum doxy" is 18th century pirate-speak for a woman of remarkable character and ambiguous virtue
Rum Doxy 's Photos - Easter Island
Photos 1 to 45 of 45 | Main
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Land Ho!: After 15 days and 7 hours Easter Island is in sight.
View from the anchorage at Hanga Roa: Anchored in 75
Hanga Roa and the anchorage
Ranu Kau.: At the southern end of the island is the caldera of Ranu Kau.
The old caldera is filled with a shallow lake and small islets that look like they are floating
Orongo: The ceremonial village of Orongo sits on the edge of the caldera. It was only used for a few weeks every year by the members of the birdman cult. This cult was a later development, replacing ancestor worship and Moai construction.
Motu Ini and Motu Nui just off the southern end of the island: In the Birdman cult, once a year the strongest chiefs or their representative would climb down the 500
Stone huts.: These huts are made of stacked slabs of slate, entered by a small crawl hole. Inside were religious paintings.
Partially un-roofed stone hut showing the construction
Looking south from Orongo
Rano Raraku: This is the quarry where most of the Moai were made. Over 1000 were made and over 300 remain at Rano Raruku.
4 heads are better than 2
Unfinished Moai: The moai were carved in place, then stood up before transport to their "ahu" or altar which could be miles away.  Work was abandoned if they came across a rock inclusion in the soft volcanic tuff that they were carved from as they were using stone tools. All work stopped a couple hundred years ago with the rise of the birdman cult.
"buried" moai: The moai were stored upright on the hillside. Over the centuries erosion has buried most of them to one degree or another. This dude is barely keeping his head above ground.
Ahu Tongariki: Tongariki has 15 large moai.
Tongariki
Ahu Tahira: This ahu, or altar, is unique in that the stones are fitted precisely, looking very much like an Incan foundation
South island view
Statue at Anakena, apparently depicting the difficulties of giving birth to a wooden baby.
Sunset from the anchorage
Anakena.: These moai have a "topknot" made of lighter, red tuff
Replica of an "upside down canoe" house
The caleta at Hanga Roa: The "Rum Dinghy" can be seen at the left. There was good, consistent surf right at the entrance almost every day, sometimes breaking all the way across, which made coming and going interesting.
Recess on Rapa Nui: Every day these school kids would be handed a blue, soft deck surfboard and sent out to surf. I had to cut class to do that.
Most o the island is very green and pastoral
Water cave: These lava tubes were used in times of drought to collect water.
Tree growing from lava tube.: The bottom was about 20
House foundation.: Almost every square foot of the island has some sort of remnant of the old civilization, whether it is a wall, foundation, oven, altar or garden ring.
Ahu A Kivi: According to legend, these 7 moai represent the original explorers who found the island before colonization.
Ahu Tahai: This ahu overlooks the anchorage at Hanga Roa and was our view every day.
"Tourist Moai": These can be found throughout the island on most days. This specimen is an example of the rare "monkey butt" morph, thought to be a mark of the elite.  This one should probably not be standing there as, what looks like a pile of rocks, may actually be the remains of a shrine.
 
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