A Boat Too Far

In 2005 we bought a 46' catamaran in Thailand as a wreck. We removed the cabin, bridgedeck, main crossbeam and all the bulkheads then completely redisigned and rebuilt her in Phuket over the course of 5 years. It seemed like a good idea at the time..

13 October 2019 | Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda
11 October 2019 | Puerto Quellon
02 October 2019 | Valdivia, Chile
19 April 2019
03 April 2019
29 March 2019
20 March 2019
17 March 2019
11 March 2019
08 March 2019
05 March 2019
03 March 2019
24 February 2019 | Bahia de Corcovado
21 February 2019 | Puerto Montt
14 February 2019
13 February 2019
12 February 2019

Nose mitten

13 October 2019 | Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda
Annette Reed
The latest spring fashion in Northern Patagonia. I decided that the pom pom on my beanie was a little outdated, so I removed it. Mike being the fashion forward guy he is designed a nose mitten for me from the fleece that made up the ball. I got a twofer, since my nose was not only cold but runny from a cold, better than a hankie!
We are now at latitude 43 degrees. The days are getting longer (sunsets now at 8:10pm), the water temperature is getting colder and we are entering the deep channels lined with snow capped peaks. Our priorities, pleasures and challenges have drastically changed since leaving Valdivia, not to mention California. Once we leave the dock everything becomes a precious commodity. Fuel is the number one. In the tropics the sunshine, wind and solar supply us with most of our energy needs, but down here sunshine is one of those precious commodities we just can't get enough of to handle our basic needs. So things like hot showers, baked goods and using an outboard motor are rationed on a "as need" basis. But we do have plenty of eggs! And the other good thing is the fresh produce lasts forever because the refrigerator is actually the same temperature as the cabin.

On the Road Again

11 October 2019 | Puerto Quellon
Mike Reed
We had an uncomfortable but uneventful trip down to the canals from Valdivia and are now taking advantage of whatever wind we can get to head south. Unfortunately, the wind only blows from the north during the passage of a front, so we sail a lot in the rain. We do get a bit of a view every now and then and Chile in the springtime is beautiful. Yellow flowers and green pastures cover the hillsides in the northern canals. We should lose the wind this afternoon, but the sun may come out so we don't mind a bit of motoring. Tonight we are anchored at Puerto Quellon, whose main claim to fame is that it is the southern terminus of the Pan-American Highway, the other end being in Anchorage, Alaska.

Getting ready to head south

02 October 2019 | Valdivia, Chile
Mike | Bloody freezing
We have been back on the boat in Valdivia for the past month getting ready to head south. The season down here is late winter/early spring and the weather has been typical. Lots of rain with sunshine and cold when it clears. We took the above photo this morning. The big number is the temperature in the cabin and the little number is the temperature outside. For the metrically challenged that's 39° and 32°. No worries though, the diesel heaters take the chill off pretty quickly. We find that the cold weather is actually more comfortable than the hot weather in the tropics as it is a lot easier to get warm when it's cold than to get cool when it's hot. We have new anchor chain arriving from Santiago today, and a fuel truck will deliver 850 liters of fuel tomorrow. It looks like a good weather window for heading south this weekend. Our plan is to head to Puerto Aysen where we can renew our visas and then take our time meandering down the canals to Puerto Williams. We will spend a little time down there, then make our way back north in March, hoping to arrive back in Valdivia by late April, where we will store the boat for the winter again.

Have you ever...?

19 April 2019
Annette Reed
Who would have thought getting on the bus could be so difficult? It began with our first attempt to make a 3 day trip over to Bariloche, Argentina. We needed to get off the boat, see some mountains and renew our Chilean visas. It was my birthday so we splurged and made reservations at a nice hotel on the lake, planned our itinerary, closed up the boat and headed for the bus station. Have you ever gone up to the ticket counter to buy tickets, passport in hand, but forgot the little tourist cards they gave you when you entered the country? We have. "No tourist card, no bus" we were told. Tails between our legs we returned home.

Our second attempt was 5 days later. We made reservations at the same hotel, closed up the boat, collected our passports and tourist cards and headed for the local bus stop to catch the bus into town and the main terminal for the bus to Bariloche. Have you ever got up early on a Sunday morning in order to catch the city bus to the main bus terminal, only to find that the buses don't run on Sunday? We have. Never mind, we stuck out our thumbs and 35 minutes later a nice young man on his way to Grandma's picked us up and took us right to the station. We got the last seats on the bus with 3 minutes to spare.

Our time spent in Bariloche was amazing and I'll tell that story later. We checked out of our hotel and made our way to the main terminal. Have you ever found the correct city bus at the right time and made it to the main bus terminal with all your important papers in hand 45 minutes early only to be told there is not a single seat left on the only bus? We have.
There's something to be said for traveling with all inclusive package deals where everything is taken care of for you, but what's the fun in that?

Chiloe to Valdivia 4/4-4/5 2019

13 April 2019
Annette Reed
The 140 mile passage from Isla Chiloe to Valdivia took 28 hours. We motor sailed through large south swells on the beam and very choppy seas. Skies were clear, light winds from the SW, not a single pesky fishing boat and the Humbolt current actually flowed in the right direction, north, giving us a lift. It took a little while to get used to being in Blue Water again but overall it was a fast and easy trip.
So now we are here at Alowplast Marina and Boatyard located on the beautiful Rio Valdivia where Rum Doxy will hang out until we return again next season. From our dock looking out our port windows we are surrounded by heavily forested hillsides, golden grass marshes and the steady ebb and flow of river water. Determining the ebb or flow of the river is easy by watching resting Great Grebes float backwards in the water. Looking out the starboard windows is the Alowplast boat yard where the Chris White Catamarans are built. We feel right at home here nestled among these multi million dollar catamarans. Chris White catamarans are one of the rare forward cockpit designs similar to ours.
As usual we do have an extensive list of repairs, maintenance and additions to do on the boat before we head down to Southern Patagonia next season.
But before we dive into heavy boat work we need to get off the boat, stretch our legs, have a look around and get our visas renewed in Bariloche, Argintina.

Puerto Ingles

03 April 2019
Mike
We are tucked into the lagoon here, waiting for a front to pass so we can head north. We were able to sail most of the way here, seeing several blue whales along the way. It's raining now, so we are collecting water. If we get enough we can make beer tomorrow if the weather is still contrary. Pray for rain.

PS: More photos have been added to the gallery
Vessel Name: Rum Doxy
Vessel Make/Model: 46' Custom Catamaran
Hailing Port: Santa Barbara, California
Crew: Mike Reed, Annette Reed
Extra: A "rum doxy" is 18th century pirate-speak for a woman of remarkable character and ambiguous virtue
Rum Doxy 's Photos - Chile 2019
Photos 1 to 79 of 79 | Main
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Sunset at Alowplast Marina
The bus we had a hard time getting on.
Puerto Ingles
Our friends on Sea Rover II, Gary and Karina
Glacier Margarita Ice
LLao LLao Resort
My perfect birthday!
We took a chair lift to the top of the Cerro Catedral Ski resort and hiked to the summit for an amazing view.
Bariloche town center, strong Bavarian influence
We finally made it to Bariloche, having missed one bus and almost missing the second attempt. We were welcomed with clear blue skies and a beautiful view.
In 1645 the Spanish began building fortresses with gun batteries to protect the entrance of Bahia Corral.
Pissed off Killdeer
Vogel Beeren
Getting tanked at Kunstmann Brewery, one of Valdivia
LLao LLao peninsula
After missing the bus again we made the best of it by going out to LLao LLao .
Andean Fox: When we reached the summit and could go no further, out came an Andean fox to welcome us to it
View from our balcony: .
South Pacific sunset
Albatross were our constant companions for the last week of our passage from Easter Island to Chile. We continue to the the Black Browed Albatross daily in the canals.
A break in the action
Land ho!: On the 16th day out of Easter Island we sighted the mainland and were escorted in by a large pod of Peale
Heading south in the canals we anchored within sight of the Chaiten Volcano, which erupted a few years ago, forcing the evacuation of the town at it
Our first penguins. These are Magellanic Penguins.
Tic Toc Bay from the air
Souhern Sea Lions and Imperial Shags
Caleta Punta Porvenir
Humpback in the Moraleda Channel. We saw several Fins and humpbacks here, our first since Mexico. We saw a small pod of Orcas just south of Puerto Aguirre.
Ringed Kingfisher.
Sunrise in the canals
surfin
The beer getting special attention. It should ferment at about 68* but it rarely gets above 60 in the hulls, so the beer gets to sit up top with us and gets it
Steamer duck. : These guys are flightless and scoot across the water, using their wings as propellers.
Lichen
The view from Puerto Santo Domingo
First glimpse of the icefields
White sand beach at Caleta Porvenir
Bird
Estero Odger during a break in the rain.
These things are everywhere, often the flowers are floating in the anchorages.
Rio Los Patos, just outside the Laguna, where we got our anchor stuck on a log and were hit by a bergy bit the size of an SUV in the middle of the night. You can  just see a small chunk oof ice in the middle of the river.
Sunrise at Estero Empedrado
Male and female Kelp Geese. No idea which is which.
Puerto Aguirre. Rum Doxy is on the left side of town.
Fog bank while leaving Puerto Aguirre. Visibility was about 100
Caleta Manuel, that we nicknamed "Caleta Rorshach"
No shortage of waterfalls along the way
Going for a swim, again. This time to clear the dinghy painter off the prop.
Bahia Pescador. The anchor is in 23 meters, the stern is in 2 meters.
Puerto Juan Yates in Bahia Tic Toc. The bottom is foul with rocks, so we just tied between the 2 islands.
Paddling in Bahia Pescador
Alpenglow on Monte Yanteles
Kaleidoscope rocks in Caleta Rorshach
One of the ever-present Magellenic Penguins
Fishing fleet at Isla Mechuque
Ibis
 
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