21 August 2012 | Combarro, Spain, 42’24.88N 08’42.33W - Isla Ons, Spain, 42’23.26N 08’55.42W
In days gone by in Galicia there was, due to conflict, a significant lack of men to marry and an over supply of women. Rather than deal with this problem in a modern, humane manner and maybe setup a social welfare program, it was felt that it would be much easier to simply brand these single old women as witches and burn them at the stake. It is therefore said that witches are everywhere in Galicia and this is particularly true of truly old towns like Combarro. Everywhere in Combarro there were good luck charms and bottles of water to ward off the witches. Iain felt however that they were missing the main issue and simply not crushing their egg cups.
We were treated to the full tourist experience in Combarro with bars hewn out of rock and seafood wherever we looked. We'd been told that we just had to go and try the local fare in this town and so after dropping the hook just outside the local marina we ventured into the main square and it's slipway to sample the towns delights. Top of Iain's list had been the local delicacy of Pimentos Pardon. This is a plate of fried salted sweet peppers, there is however a bit of a sting in the tail. The peppers look just like chillies and to add a little 'spice' into the culinary experience it's customary to add a couple into the dish. Eating pimentos is akin to playing Russian roulette with food. Highly recommended for any dinner party.
After a very convivial evening ashore we merrily went back to Thug and ready to dingy back to Ruffian. When we got to the main square where we'd left him we realised the error of our ways. The slipway had only just been covered when we'd landed at high water and now we either had to walk 250 meters through oily mud and weed, wait for 6 hours for the tide or find an alternative. The first two didn't appeal and so after scanning the docks we spied an unlocked pontoon that would give us access to the water. The only issue with this plan was that we'd have to walk with Thug the length of town in front of 100's of promenading couples. With Fiona in a frock and Iain in his "best" shorts, we were clearly a spectacle and a talking point, even the local police just nodded and laughed at us. Thug was finally launch, we successfully got back to Ruffian and en route were given the most amazing fireworks display over Pontevendra.
It was now time to finally use our hard won visa's and make a visit to Isla Ons, one of the isles of the Galician Maritime Park. As we left Combarro a similar sized boat set sail, even though we only had 5 knots of breeze. There was going to be another race on. We tacked on every shift and worked hard to keep Ruffian slipping through the water as fast as we could. As we approached a marker showing a reef we split tacks with the local boat. They went over the reef and we went safe and into deep water. Local knowledge paid as when we saw them again we'd been left in their wake. The important point however is that we arrived at Isla Ons safely and not attached to a reef.
Isla Ons is a nature reserve and access is strictly by visa only, it's very similar to Sark in many ways, no cars, no pollution, no rubbish, just miles of good walking, good beaches and happy wildlife. Here we've found great snorkelling, where Fiona is overcoming her fear of the deep blue which was created by sneaking into a showing of Jaws at the age of 12 and great hiking through forests full of dappled light and chirping birds.
The visa gives us entry into all the national parks and so tomorrow we'll be heading further south to Isla Cies which is reported to have one of the best beaches in the world.
The old town at Combarro. Fishermens' houses went down to the water and filled with seawater. Damp was a real problem.
Empanadas and Pimentos. There are some chillies lurking in them there dishes.
Can you spot the sole anchor light amongst the 100's of boats in the marina?
The race is on. The First 31.7 crossed us as we left. We couldn't have that.
Iain trying his hardest to keep up. It needed Fiona's driving to increase boatspeed.
The VOR70 Telephonica was spotted off a beach. Extraordinary cruising boat.
Fiona getting over her 'Jaws phobia'.
Checking the anchor in 12 meters of water is easier said than done.
The hordes of tourists arriving on Ons, they looked like ants! We're so pleased we can still be here after they've all gone home.
On the chart this looks like a well protected bay when the wind is in the east. We don't think we'll try anchoring here.
Wildlife was spotted and really quite friendly.
The dappled shade of forest made a welcome change to the unrelenting sunshine of being at sea.