29 October 2012 | Quinta do Lorde, Madeira Grande, 32’44.50N 16’42.68W – Puerto Calero, Lanzarote, 28’54.96N 13’42.267W
If we were cat burglars we think that we'd be pretty good ones. It's not that we don't have good moral fibre and we certainly don't have the need to take others people possessions. It's that we are clearly very very good at squeezing through little windows and entering new places. A teeny tiny weather window opened just big enough for Ruffian to squeeze through and just like when you start to squeeze through a small window, the most difficult bit its when you start and finishing off getting through the window is all super easy. This window enabled Ruffian to make the trip from Madeira to Lanzarote with the first day being a battle, the following days being a joy and we got through the window just before it shut removing any possibility of a good trip south.
We left Madeira with some trepidation, for the first time since we slipped lines in March we embarked on proper sea voyage with a forecast that was not particularly to our liking. Life however is all about opportunity and we knew that we had to take this opportunity to move south. We knew that we'd be facing big waves, lots of wind, even some rain, but we also knew that things would get better. Out to sea we went and were greeted by no, literally no wind, then, as we got out of the lee of the land: Bam; 5 kts, 10kts, 20kts, 32kts of wind. This is what we were expecting but the reality of sailing in these conditions is always feels different from the theory. All the preparation we'd made in harbour proved invaluable, but as ever there was more to do and we had a scary hour getting the 3rd reef into the main as Iain perched precariously on the coachroof whilst the 4 meter waves picked up the stern threatening to eat Ruffian up with their breaking crests and foaming teeth.
In the first day Fiona's cast iron stomach paid dividends. Whilst on all the boats around us people were succumbing to seasickness and surviving on a diet of peanut butter sandwiches, Fiona happily pottered about down below, making pasta, chatting on the VHF and letting Iain drive so that he wouldn't succumb to the disabling effects of seasickness. Well done Fiona. We hunkered down, turned left at the Desertas Islands and in time everything started to calm down. In that first day some things were really easy to do like surfing down waves and getting pooped, some things were much more difficult like taking photographs (sorry about that), eating and sleeping.
With the wind abating we were back into our usual mile eating sailing and all the rewards that come with it. We were given sunsets with dolphins, shooting stars with trailing tails against a backdrop of the milky way and Fiona had the joy once again of unwrapping and surveying yet another brand new chart. The drama of the trip however was not yet quite over though.
Night had come as we approached Lanzarote and so we felt uncomfortable about making for our intended anchorage. Another plan formed and so out came the balloons and string enabling us to tie up in the glamour marina at Puerto Calero. We read that the marina was so glamorous that it apparently had bronze cleats to tie your boat to and stainless steel ladders to climb up, not Ruffian's usual style at all, but it would make a good ending to a good trip. We motored through the narrow entrance and spotted a slot to pop Ruffian into. Then as Fiona gunned the engine to swing the bow into the spot, silence, the engine simply stopped. Without panic or shouting, as is always the way on Ruffian, Iain simply strolled back. Check the engine. Started it again and Fiona made a prefect tie up after having sailed another 300 miles south.
Goodbye Pastis De Nata. You've been good to us, but bad to our waistlines.
The first day and night at sea were super windy so we adopted quick ways of kitting up.
The calm after the storm. Phew the waves reduced, the wind dropped and out came the sunshine.
The calm after the storm. Easy mile eating conditions as we always seem to have on Ruffian.
We had a little visitor. He didn't hang around as his little feet couldn't cope with the rolling.
Will we catch a big one with our new toy, named squidy? The answer as usual was no.
Ahhh blessed sleep. Handsteering in 30 knots of wind for 36 hours took it's toll on both of us.
Playing with the dolphins on the bow of a boat will always put a smile on your face.
Dolphins, sunsets, calm seas. Does it get any better.
Our last night at sea before making a dawn landfall in Lanzarote.
Lanzarote. A world of blackness.