13 December 2012 | Palmeira, Isla Sal, Cape Verde, 16’45.18N 22’58.81W – Mudiera, Sal, Cape Verde, 16’41.80N 22’58.13W
Goodbye Europe, hello Africa, we have for the first time arrived in a different continent and wow how different have we found it to anything we have experienced before. The people are unbelievably friendly and also unbelievably shrewd (grrrr taxi drivers!). There are natural wonders wherever you look and a healthy mix of hard work; read carrying water and bananas, and relaxation; read sitting wherever you like and just chilling.
For the first time on our travels we have had to go through the rigmarole of immigration. When you arrive somewhere by plane it's all made very easy for you. You simply walk off the plane, up to a nice man in a booth, he stamps your passport and off you go happy as Larry. When arriving by privately owned yacht it's a whole different ball game. First of all you've got to find the police station and tell them you're here, then you've got to make your way to the nice man in the booth at immigration and try to explain in pigeon, French, Spanish, Portuguese or Creole that you have not arrived by plane but by boat. Finally you are ushered into a little room, where all the tourists can stare at you thinking you've done wrong, and then the magic stamp comes out enabling you to officially enter a new country. In Iain's words, this is not just a faf, but a big faf.
Having booked into Isla Sal or Salt Island, it was time to sample what it was named after and we headed off to the salt mine. The mine harnesses all the natural facilities of its surroundings. The sea water is let into the volcanic crater via a natural spring, the heat of the volcano then gently warms the water and the sun finishes the job off. What you are left with is heaps of pure white sea salt and in the process there are also some super salty pools of water that are gagging to be played in.
Walking into the pools you instantly feel the super saline solution cleaning out your pores and then as you take the weight off your feet you 'pop' out of the water like a cork. As you pop up you get to feel exactly where all your little sailing cuts and bruises are on your body as the salt works its way in and very quickly lets your brain know that it's there. The only way this experience could have been more remarkable would have been to have had a copy of The Telegraph, lying back in that salty water would have made just the most perfect bathing and reading location.
With entry and sightseeing ticked off the list the search for the perfect anchorage continued. We found a bay tucked behind a hill with sand just everywhere. The only problem here was that landing was treacherous. When we did venture in you had a great view of the crashing waves from the top of your wave and then simply a view of water when you were in the trough, the activity of landing provided great entertainment for all those at anchor but was not such fun if you were the poor soul trying to land.
The difficult landing suited Fiona fine and she settled into a book all about emotions. Iain thought that you suffered an emotion when you stubbed your toe, so how can there be a whole book about toe stubbing he has no idea. So while Fiona had her 'girlie' emotion day Iain played the role of the Milk Tray Man by rescuing an errant dinghy from the boat next door that had broken its painter. Off he roared with his 3hp engine on Thug, braving the wind and waves and tethered the wayward dinghy. What did he get in return, wine, champagne, a ticker tape parade, huge accolade? No, nothing more than a simple 'Merci'.
With the delights of Sal explored it's already time to head off for another island and we'll be pushing south to Boa Vista with its white sandy beaches and wild interior. Dominique should be returning from his bachelor explorations to Ruffian by 11am so we have just 7 hours to cover the 35 miles before sunset. If we don't make it before dark it'll be a glum night waiting off or sailing the 90 miles west to St Vincent. Fingers crossed we have fair winds and never before achieved average speeds.
Up goes another courtesy flag. Hello Cape Verde islands.
Who needs a chart when we could have just taken the side of this house?
Mixing the traditional with the modern. Happily anchored in Palmeiro (Ruffian in centre picture furthest away).
The salt mine was simply amazing. Harnessing all the natural resources of the earth. Sun, sea and fire.
Iain and Kent testing the waters, the last time Iain did this was in the Dead Sea. The last time there weren't quite so many smiles.
Larry is not impressed with the 'activity' of floating and settles for a civilised coffee and a view.
The army wanted to adopt a brigade mascot. Larry was having none of it.
We are truly in Africa now. 4x4's, dust road and emptiness.
Another great anchorage, with "Quaver" from Ardfern anchored next door. I think that that hill will give us sufficient shelter.
That's what we like to see. The anchor in sand.
Willie from "Quaver" giving it large on his fiddle on board "Dina 2".