19 December 2012 | Sal Rei, Boa Vista, Cape Verde, 16’09.86N 22’55.11W – Tarrafal, Sao Nicolau, Cape Verde, 16’34.27N 24’21.77W
We always thought that Africa was an enormous continent starting just south of Europe and stretched all the way until its southern tip is almost in the roaring 40’s. However, we have found that it also juts out into the Atlantic as the Cape Verde Islands, a little piece of Africa at 16’N and 24’W.
Of Africa all you ever hear of are bloody coups, corrupt dictators and famines that leave millions displaced and starving. The Cape Verde Islands seem to have taken all the best bits of Africa and have managed to leave the despots and famine behind. We like the Cape Verde’s and have loved the island of Sao Nicolau.
With the kite and wind surfers ripping things up in our super windy anchorage in Boa Vista we slipped out between them in the company of Dina2 and Quaver for an overnight sail to the island of Sao Nicolau. The difference between these two places couldn’t have been more stark, Boa Vista boasted the windiest anchorage in the world, sand dunes made of the most perfect white sand and a flat interior that we couldn’t explore, whilst Sao Nicolau gifted us a flat windless haven, rocks everywhere you looked and an interior that not only could we explore but wowed us at every turn.
Stepping ashore to check in with the maritime police we had to opportunity to buy some fish that had literally just been landed and was so fresh that it was practically still flapping. Moving further into town the produce became even fresher and was actually flapping. We were offered a live cockerel by a particularly proud owner and he even showed us how fresh it was by giving him a friendly shake. With the choice of live chicken or recently dispatched tuna for dinner, we parted with 2 Euros for a 2kg tuna.
With the formalities completed and tummies full we set of the next day to explore Sao Nicolau. We’d read that the walk from the highest peak down into the main town would not only half the massive 2 Euro Aluguer fare but it would also take your breath away. Aluguers are like taxis but instead of taking just you to your destination, they can pick up any old punter that is standing by the side of the road and drop them off on the way. They are also unlike any taxi that we’ve ever taken before as they’re basically just pick up trucks that are devoid of any safety features. Our breath was instantly taken away as we left, not only because we were hurtling along at light speed on the wrong side of the road around hairpin bends and over blind crests, but as we were going up and up and up we had the most incredible views all around us without the bother of a roof or seatbelts being in the way.
So for every up there is a down and with the Aluguer doing the up, it was time for the down. The capital was visible in the distance at the bottom of the valley and we now had the simple task of walking downhill to it. As we descended we diced with death. If we didn’t fall over the edge of the narrow rock strewn path then the local wildlife would get us and we braved massive black and yellow spiders and hornets the size of eagles. Safely down we felt that we should reward ourselves with some local fare for lunch and this is where Kent let his guard down. He piled on the local Piri Piri condiment and very quickly realised that sometimes less is more. He entered a world of heat, tuned the same shade as a beetroot and started sweating as if he was now having to walk uphill.
Having made another ‘there’s always space for another passenger’ bus ride back to Ruffian we settled in to a chilled out night. Dominique challenged us to a game of scrabble and after some protests from Fiona & Iain saying that it wasn’t fair as English is his 3rd language we started a game. Fiona & Iain’s worries about fairness soon abated as Dominique started to wipe the table with big words and big scores. Fiona finished triumphant, but by a measly 10 point margin. We’d be going back to school to study English if Dominique had been victorious.
Our time in the Cape Verdes is starting to draw to a close and we have only a few more stops before our next big ocean crossing looms. Tomorrow we’ll be pushing off again to the deserted island of Luzia where we hope we’ll find deserted beaches and amazing snorkelling.
Sailing in company with Willie on Quaver. He won the moral battle and was the last to turn on his engine.
Sao Nicolau appears out of the Saharan sand.
Black sandy beaches, palm tress and sunshine. We have arrived.
There are some big old fish out there in the sea. Well there ‘were’ some big fish out there.
The solar panel works its magic. No moving parts, no noise and heaps of power.
We had the open top hilux and were in and ‘African’ country all we need now are some AK47’s.
Whoa. We weren’t expecting any views like this.
If falling down the massive hills doesn’t get you then the monster spiders and hornets will.
Does Fiona need a wee? No she’s just avoiding the spider trap.
There is always space for 1 more on the bus, even if there are no spare seats or even space.
Larry the lucky llama gets some loving from Lewis.