26 December 2012 | Tarrafal, Sao Nicolau, Cape Verde, 16’34.27N 24’21.77W – Mindelo, St Vincent, Cape Verde, 16’53.01N 24’59.65W
Some anchorages are described using emotive words such as flat, calm or idyllic and at the same time technical words like sand and shells, protected from west to south through north. These are words that we like. What we do not like are emotive words like ‘speed sailors dream’ or ‘dramatic plunging cliffs’ and technical words like squally, rocky and ‘good luck in getting your anchor to set’. Until we made it to Mindelo to prep for the Atlantic crossing we were very much in the plunging cliffs and speed sailors category, once we made it to Mindelo calm overtook those on Ruffian whilst the capitol bustled in a pre Christmas frenzy.
We had read in the pilot book that the best snorkelling in the islands was to be had on the uninhabited island of Santa Luzia half way between Sao Nicholau and St Vincent. We’d also read that there was an anchorage that had the benefit of being ‘protected’ by a little island that was surrounded by jaggedy rocks. It’s now possible for you to do am impression of our wind speed indicator as we approached said anchorage. Now repeat, 8, 12, 25, 32, 35. The anchorage was more of a wind tunnel. You can now do an impression of our engine. Dum, dum, dum, silence. With the breeze screaming through the rigging the engine simply stopped and the island that now ‘protected’ the anchorage very quickly became a serious hazard with teeth that were asking to gnaw away at our hull. With the engine restarted and sails out we instantly made the decision to leave Quaver and Dina 2 to a night of no sleep and a day of no snorkelling whilst we headed onto the next island.
After our difficult night entry into Sal we wanted to avoid getting into anther port at night and so instead of going to Mindelo we opted for a world famous speed sailing spot in the south of the island. Not ideal for anchoring, but at least we hoped to get there in daylight and so we started yet another race against the clock to get in before the sunset. Yet another race was won and we can confirm that San Pedro is an outstanding speed sailing spot. Flat waters and an unreal amount of wind, but thankfully less than St Luzia and with the added benefit that as the sun set and the land cooled down so did the breeze.
Our task the following day was to get to Mindelo. The pilot book started by saying of the entrance “By far the vast majority of yachts enter the port from the north sailing downwind”, so with the pilot book duly put in the bin we started our beat to Mindelo from the south and the task of teaching Dominique the intricacies of sailing upwind.
Mindelo is the capitol of the Cape Verdes and is a world away from the chilled out island havens of Sal, Boa Vista and Sao Nicholau that we’ve managed to take in. It’s bright and bustling with big big B’s. It’s possible to get anything here as long as it comes in bright primary colours, houses, people, cars, shops; they were all bright. If you then mix the bright colours of the town with gordy neon Christmas decorations you have some idea of the assault that the eyes were given. There is also bustle everywhere; forget the sleepy towns with dogs getting naps in the high street. Here there are street vendors everywhere, markets galore and cars that seem to have their horns in a single position - on.
Overlooking Mindelo is St Vincent’s biggest hill called Mount Verde, the green mountain. With the island being so arid and having been boat bound we thought that the walk down would be valuable. We took an “AK47” Aluguer to the top and proceeded to walk the 15k back into town. With an early start we managed to get the view of the inside of a cloud at the top and very occasional snatched glimpses of what we could expect on the way down. As we started the journey through the clouds we were given vistas over the entire island and the Cape Verde archipelago with sheer drop offs meaning that we really knew just how high we were.
With exercise duly performed we felt able to dig into our big Christmas meal. A couple of enterprising characters in the marina had found a restaurant where we could celebrate and we all sat down to a meal that included roast suckling pig, roast turkey and some of the local fare. Fiona however wasn’t happy as there was no bread sauce or overcooked sprouts, but there were silly party hats in abundance and shocking cracker jokes.
With the Christmas festivities over it looks now as if we are now ready for our biggest trip to date. The crossing of the Atlantic. There are no escape routes, there can be no turning back, once we up anchor that’s it, complete commitment. See you in a few weeks.
Dina2 in the super windy anchorage at the deserted islands of Santa Luzia. We were destined not to stop.
Another amazing sunset at the end of a really stressful day,
You can take the racers out of the race boat but you can’t take the race boat out of the racers.
Now that’s not something you see very often when sailing in trade winds.
The perfect protected harbour at Mindelo. Unfortunately about 100 other boats had the same thoughts as us.
The view we got up at dawn for.
We’re the kings of the castle. You’re the dirty rascals.
Larry what have you done?
The cloud cleared and wow what a view.
Mindelo in the distance. Can you spot Ruffian?
You can have any colour that you like as long as it’s a bright one.
The amazing Dominique works his magic with the locals.
The shopping experience in Mindelo is quite different from that you get in Tesco’s or Asda.
The photography skills continue for Iain.
Reunited with old friends and the Rampton's Rummy continues.
According to Waimangu we are the only people in the world to get our complete monies worth from pens and pencils.
Happy Christmas. It’s just as gordy in the Cape Verde’s as the rest of the world.
Merry Christmas one and all.
The chart work never ends. There seems to be a rather disturbing amount of open water on that massive chart.