14 October 2013 | Smith Creek, MD, USA 38’07.62N 76’23.88W – Norfolk, VA, USA 36’51.14N 76’17.87W via Deltaville, VA, USA
“Should I stay or should I go now? Should I stay or should I go now?” These words have been blasted out over dancefloors filled with crazy kids for many years as they strutted their funky stuff. These words have also been used on Ruffian every day as we have debated if we should head out to face the Chesapeake chop, kicked up by howling winds and flattened again by horizontal rain or if we should sit inside trying to find yet more ingenious ways to amuse ourselves as the wind whistles through the rigging and the rain soaks everything through.
After sitting in Smith Creek for what felt like eons, a weather window opened up and after yet another debate, we joined a small convoy of boats heading south. The choppy waters at the junction between the Potomac and the Chesapeake are fabled and as we blasted downwind in the rain they didn’t disappoint. With waves coming at us from every conceivable angle and breaking into the cockpit we thought that we’d chosen the wrong side of the debate, but as time drew on and the miles passed, the flat and welcoming waters of Deltaville emerged out of the drizzle we knew that we’d made the right decision.
Deltaville had a draw, not only because it was another 40 miles south and offered flat and safe waters, but we also had a friendly face to meet there, that of Bill Crump. We’d met Bill and his wife Mary on our way north and hoped that they’d be in town as we anchored in front of their harbourside home. Sure enough they were in and just like last time their generosity and good natured spirit knew no bounds.
Without hesitation Bill gave up his time and took us around the local sights. The real highlight was the maritime museum, not because of the array of vessels and memorabilia that it held, but because of the memories that it evoked. As we were shown around and nosed about an old restored working boat we opened up the bilges and smelt a smell that you only get on old wooden boats. Memories of Ondine with her well loved wooden bilges flooded into our minds, made all the more evocative as these bilges seemed to be just as well loved.
Bill and Mary were also generous enough to invite us to dinner and so after slaving away all day in her shop Mary simply ‘rustled’ up the most amazing crab cakes. This was true Chesapeake fare. Bill and Mary’s company was also fascinating and opened a door into a past American life as we found out all about growing up on tobacco farms and how big tobacco estates worked. Our hearts and thanks go out to Bill and Mary for making our trip into Deltaville so memorable.
Once again the debate raged on Ruffian about staying or going and once again we opted to leave in howling winds and horizontal rain. We felt fortified in our decision to leave as we were not alone, but once out into the Chesapeake and confronted with the reality of the day, we quickly turned tail. Our reality for the day was going to be hiding in the dry rather than battling in the wet.
After yet another day of finding ingenious ways to amuse ourselves (in which Iain proudly found a 7 letter scrabble word) we once again headed south and things were an awful lot better. For the first time in what felt like weeks we saw a big yellow orb in the sky which was surrounded by sky so blue it looked like it was sponsored by Dulux. All we needed now was for it to be warm enough for us to dispense with oilies and peel to shorts and T-shirts, bring on the Caribbean.
Norfolk seems to be the naval centre of America and as we entered the harbour we were surrounded on all sides by scary looking, gun toting, hardware of all sizes. We passed aircraft carrier after aircraft carrier and docks bristling with destroyers and frigates. If these ships weren’t enough of a worry, then around them, just to make sure you really knew your place, were little gun toting boats watching your every move. Thankfully after all that aggression we were welcomed into Gary & Greta’s dock in the heart of Norfolk. This will be Ruffians home for the next 10 days while we get ready for an ocean passage and ‘nip’ back to the UK.
It’s been raining so hard for so long we are expecting Noah in his arc to pass us.
There was an exodus leaving the Potomac. Sailboats, powerboats, local and international, all heading south.
Wind and rain. We’re bored of sailing in waterproofs. When can we peel to shorts and bare feet?
Larry meets his brother in arms.
Wind and sun. That’s more like it. We’re still missing the shorts and bare feet though.
Up the wave, down the wave and repeat.
Suddenly having to sailing in shipping was a real shock.
Welcome to Norfolk. Home of the scariest ships in the world.