When you buy a boat there is always a list of ‘extra’s and the bigger the boat the bigger the list of extras. ‘Il Sogno’, an Oyster 56, being a big boat is loaded with these ‘extras and one extra which we didn’t even think would appear on the list has been used to maximum effect. It’s the ‘yummy galley smell switch’ and every time we seem to visit ‘Il Sogno’ the switch has been in the on position.

After participating in a ‘slow race’ from the wonderful Warderick Wells with ‘Il Sogno’, where we attained speeds of nearly 2 knots, Craig & Karene deployed their yummy smell switch. Amazing aroma’s wafted around the anchorage as we sought out sea creatures as exotic as Yellow Stingrays and marauding Barracuda and discovered a bay so shallow that the water was warmed to the point that Hawksbill Bay sits in our book of records as having the biggest bath in the world.

The rematch for the slowest race in the world was to be rerun leaving Hawksbill. Ruffian initially had the upper hand as the iron sail was deployed but Craig took the moral high ground and so we had no choice but to follow suit and go through the faff of setting a kite and trying to eek every last bit of boatspeed out of Ruffian. The finish line was at the next Cay in the Exuma Park, Shroud Cay and with the smell of baking bread coming from the galley of Ruffian we levelled the scoreline.

Shroud Cay is remarkable as it is less island and more a mangrove swamp that is littered with channels, deadends and beaches enabling you to get lost and entertained for days and days. The best time to explore and get lost in Shroud is at high water and we therefore borrowed ‘Il Sogno’s’ two-man kayak at low water!

The outgoing tide swept us into the Cay and we were presented with choices galore in which to get lost. After paddling through the clear shallow water we finally emerged onto the ocean side of the island where we had deserted beaches stretching for as far as the eye could see. Now we just needed to get back. Like Hansel and Gretel we followed breadcrumbs but as real ones would have floated array on the current we just followed the smells emanating from the 2 fine ships.

Shroud Cay was full of new experiences. Kayaking among the mangroves was all new, as was the way in which Iain tackled the unending task of keeping little critters and weed off the hull. We’d anchored in such shallow water that for the first time he was able to swim under Ruffian, hold onto the keel and plant his feel firmly on the ground while scraping way to his hearts (and lungs) content.

With a new clean bottom we had high hopes in the race to Normans Cay and we pulled out our secret weapon of starting without telling the crew of ‘Il Sogno’. Off we shot and anchored first in water that was deep enough for ‘Il Sogno’ with her 8ft 6in draft but left the shore a distant spec on the horizon.

Even though the land was a mere spec in the distance there were delights that we wanted to seek out. Normans Island was the centre of a 1980’s cocaine trafficking operation, being run by Carlos von Cokehead, no less. With ‘progress’, the shot up compound had disappeared but one of the remnants of the operation is a crashed aeroplane that is now a haven for fish and coral.

Thug valiantly took on the task of taking us to the far off land and the even further off plane and after having to refuel 3 times we arrived. Just above the surface we could see the tail and when we plunged into the sea the whole splendour of the place became apparent. Colourful fishies darted around the engines and cockpit and under the wings and fuselage the shyer critters lay in wait. This was the most spectacular and eerie snorkelling we have been privileged to partake in.

Once again the ‘yummy smell’ switch had been deployed on ‘Il Sogno’ and the aroma beckoned us. Our time with ‘Il Sogno’ is starting to draw to a close and we are now counting the days and indeed the amazing meals that come out of their galley.

Sail configuration 1. Ho hum, upwind we go.


We never knew that water like this existed in real life.


The only thing to keep Ruffian company is her shadow on the seabed.


As always we get to the high point.


There you go. The Bahamas do have some history.


Sail configuration 2. Ho hum, dead downwind we go.


The joy of searching for internet. The mifi goes up the mast.


The fabled 360 degrees of turquoise.


Sail configuration 3. Ho hum, reachy reachy.