Sahula Passage Report No. 36

Sigacik No. 2.

Skipper is in R&R from the Lycian Walk. Good food, good company soon builds the mind and body to consider the winter work. There is much to be done.

A full interior hull rust check, lighten up (used in 12 months or out), re-do interior paint and varnish, new taps galley and loo, a shower (?), heater etc. The list goes on.

The winter storms boom overhead. In between Skipper does a rust check and "lighten up" in the lazarette. Inspired by Ozkan's work team (two) on Kayitsiz III doing an interior paint and varnish over a sunny weekend, Skippers opts to prioritise Sahula's.

Ozkan in Izmir brings the necessary resources. Skipper has no "team" but the sun shines, a weekend is allotted and work begins. The old rule (multiply by three) soon applies; a week then two... For the whole time the mess becomes chaos. Soon Sahula's living space contracts to a loo and aft cabin.

Cruising requires adjustment to local conditions. Varnish and acrylic, water based paint in matt or satin, is rare (unless black or white). Local shops supply only oil based, one coat, gloss paint. They come in a limited colour range. Varnish is very effectively removed by paint remover and a stainless steel plate.

Ataturk passed away (aged 57) at 0905 on 10th November, 1938. At this time, those many Turks who idolize him and his achievements stand to attention sounding horns for minute. Skipper was photographer for Ozkan and his friends who beside Kayitsiz, flying a Turk flag bearing Ataturk's image, stood rigidly to attention. It is a reminder to Government to respect his achievements and principles. Large rallies perhaps sent the message that secularism is perceived as under threat by an allegedly Islamic leaning government.

Skipper completes a book on the Ottoman Empire 1300 - 1600 which extended in a "crescent" from Persia to Crimea, Austria, Iraq and Egypt, Sudan, northern Africa to Morocco. It controlled the trading routes from Asia and India to Europe. It underlines Turkey's cultural and historical complexity. This was the golden Ottoman period. After, the Empire declined till deposed by Ataturk's Republic in the early 1900's. The Ottoman centuries colour much of Turkey today. The Sultans stood at the apex of a highly centralized bureaucracy (based upon slavery) and a war machine. The administrations strength was continually vacillating due to weak or strong sultans, Islamic political fervour, boundary sustaining and expanding wars and the difficulty of managing a culturally and socially diverse empire bounded by competing forces of other empires, Shahs and Khans. It is said its decline was mostly due to the eventual dominance of Islam and the resulting closure to ideas and innovation.

Skipper will read about the next era: 1600 - 1900 which ends with the Republic.

Conversation reveals yet another political conspiracy theory: the USA has a grand long term plan to ensure a weakened Turkey apparently to ensure access to oil and minerals in eastern Turkey. Eastern Turkey is largely a Kurd area. What interests Skipper is not the existence of the conspiracy theories but the intense belief in them by educated Turks. It seems paranoia politics is part of a complex political life in Turkey.

Skipper is driven by Ozkan to visit his family's summer house on Izmir Bay. Ozkan laments the lost jewels of his boyhood when the surrounding marine and forest environment was pristine unspoilt by today's rampant suburban development. The destruction is worse due to the lack of modern planning and environmental regulations. These are due in the near future but in the meantime ugly architecture marks the coastline.

Skipper meets John, owner of an LED light shop in Izmir. He is fitting lights to Ozkan's boat. Skipper decides to "go" LED. LED lights use very little power, saving the batteries.

The stove is showing signs of rust and wear. Ozkan installs a new stainless steel two burner and oven stove hand built in the by Izmir "artisans" in a small workshop in the old market. It is an excellent example of their craft. However, it does not have the safety features of marine stoves. Skipper opts for security and "mends" the "old" stove...

Mustafa of Istanbul calls by to meet Skipper. He and partner Nour (Turkish traditional music singer) enjoy dinner and talk of his yachts in Brazil and Bodrum and plans to circumnavigate.

Mustafa of Marmaris calls by to meet Skipper. He is a retired engineer living on his Van de Stadt in Marmaris. He admires Sahula.

Sahula is worth admiring or at least the newly varnished and painted saloon, galley and navigation area. The varnish returns the timber to its original golden aurora. The bulkheads are painted a light cream yellow.

A small electric blower heater is aboard powered by free electrical power from Sahula's hosts.

So many "wants," so little finance - how to decide? Skippers "method" is to mull over it, feed on it, no rush, again and again till the neurons at peace, decide. Does Sahula need a diesel heater? They're expensive and require cruising in cold climates when "where to" is much at whim. Patagonia, Norway, England - they all seem so distant. Find a principle - what is the cruise for: a circumnavigation or an enjoyable sail on global waters? Skipper started on the former but has changed to the latter. Let the future look after itself.

The French canals, northern Europe, Scandinavia are nearby. They win the whim. Skipper dreams of sailing his ship into the Solent and a past life at the Southampton School of Navigation on the Hamble River.
Winters above 40 degrees north need little deliberation. Skipper decides to install a Sigmar 100 bulkhead mounted, diesel heater. The problem now is to buy one. There are none in Turkey. However, Turkish customs could substantially increase the price. West Marine (USA) offers the lowest price and agrees to send it to their Istanbul shop.

In the peace of the night (without TV or radio), the mind turns to "where to." Scandinavian cruisers (met on the Rallys) email back information. Jim Connells, "World Cruising Routes" has a detailed section. The mind waxes, plans are circulated, excitement grows. It is one of the cruising life delights to contemplate and evolve, a voyage. The endless fjords and Northern Lights conjure paintings. David Lewis, an icon of extreme voyages in cold climates, is read for his transits of the North Atlantic.

Skipper continues the interior rust check, moving through each compartment. Each area is cleaned and any rust treated. Sahula has no longitudinal "stringers" (frames are every 18 inches) so topside interior rust will show as runs at the base.

When Skipper bought Sahula, she had a tiled floor in the loo with no access to the hull. After treating rust, Skipper replaced it with a removable fiberglass floor. After four years it is now removed, rust spots treated and the loo repainted to "egg" blue. Skipper has an aversion to white. It is only on the deck head (ceiling).

Skipper is doing a "toss out if not useful" on all gear, food and papers. Some institute a "not used in 12 months" rule but there are exceptions. Often that "never used" thing saves the day. "Necessities" accumulate on a long voyage.

Skipper Turkish language "lessons" (30 lessons in Turkish book) are slow to return results. Turks talk quickly and rarely reply in the set piece answers given in the lessons. The limited "lesson" vocabulary is swamped by the huge actual vocabulary. However, the Turks delight when an Australian talks their language is palpable.

Set amongst the vineyards, near the hill top, farming village of Yagcilar, is Sema and Serhat's timber home and office. It is a fine, sunny, autumn day.

Sema is the "mermaid" who swam out to Ozkan's boat when anchored there prior to Sigacik. Serhat, an architect, designs houses, using local materials of timber and stone. Onur is Serhat's English fluent student. They make their own organic red wine and live an environmentally sound life. Serhat's model Spanish galleon "floats," suspended, in his village, stone, "second" home and Sema's art studio.

Skipper had two days to revel in their hospitality and surroundings.

Sahita (Shi) and Alev, lady friends of Sema's, are artists. They offer to guide Skipper around Izmir's art community and galleries.

Skipper met the locals, walked the forest trails and completed a colour pencil sketch of the autumn tinted vineyards.

The imminent expiry of Skipper's second visa three months required another trip to Greece. The "trip" became a trap for winter players.

The early morning Tuesday taxi, Sigacik to the Cesme ferry terminal was expensive. Lonely Planet stated: 0900 departure, Tuesday and Saturday. Signs outside a Cesme ticket office declared,"Daily ferry to Chios." Skipper purchased a ticket (65 TL in Turkey, maybe 65 Euro in Chios). Chai passed the time. Skipper was soon aware of its whimsical abundance.

"No ferry today, tomorrow!" There are no ferries on Tuesday or Thursday.

Skipper became Cesme's sole winter tourist of the Genoese castle and museum. In 1770, waters off Cesme were the site of a major naval battle. The British and Russians destroyed the Turk fleet thus opening Russian access to the Mediterranean via the Dardanelles (later the Sultan built forts at the Dardanelles entrance again blocking Russian access).

The Lazy Bee pension provided hospitable accommodation (25 TL B&B). At 1730, next day, Skipper stood on the Ferry bridge recalling memories of an early life at sea. The Turk agent and ticket confirmed the ferry returned, next morning at 0830.

Winter darkness enveloped Chios. Skipper did not expect to see much of it. "Rooms for Let" were 25 Euro (some 50 TL without breakfast). Chios was a bustle of traffic past empty waterfront bars and cafes. The ancient walled city occupies the northern side. A mosque testifies to its Turkish past. The bells ring at sunset.

Up early and to the terminal: "No ferry today, tomorrow!"

Skipper became Chios's sole winter tourist. The sun shined on a cool, clear day. Good things come from the unexpected.

Hospitable "Chians" advised a public bus trip to Mesta and Pyrgi, both medieval farming villages. Mesta is one of the "rare (totally preserved) castle villages in the world." The houses form a city wall enclosing ancient houses along a maze of narrow, stone laid, alleyways and arcades sometimes enclosed by archways. Pyrgi, another medieval village (with 50 churches) is a maze of alleyways between houses decorated by complex geometric designs etched in black and white (called "xysta" or "scraped").

Skipper notes there is no division in women's fashion in Chios. The Islamic veil and conservative dress, are not part of Greek culture.

Next morning at 0830 (another night at the "Rooms"), Skipper again stood on the ferry bridge. Cesme Immigration stamped a three month visa.

"I am coming to visit you in two hours." Skipper was departing a Cesme - Izmir bus and missed the name. It was Dogan and his wife and daughter. He is a retired naval captain. Skipper met him at a Piri Reis (marina NGO) occasion. Turk hospitality knows no end. It is Bayram - an Islamic public holiday (4 days). Skipper was given a gift of baklava and treated to chai and lunch. A lovely welcome back to Turkey.

Bayram is celebrated by families dining together. Traditionally, a goat or sheep (sheep is preferred) was slaughtered for the occasion. It celebrates the prophet, Abraham killing a sheep instead of his son. Skipper passed a well attended, animal market. Officially, the slaughter is to be done by a butcher but the edict is ignored: passing through a village, many sheep, newly killed, were being dressed for meals. An escalation in beast price (500 - 1000 TL) has restrained this years slaughter.

Skipper completed painting the loo in "egg blue" oil paint. The paints odour below was a problem.

Yilmuz (Belma, his wife) a Turk friend (first met in Townville aboard Ozkan's boat), invited Skipper to his summer house in the hills, near Urla. They have an Izmir home as well. Yilmuz is a "2/3 retired" businessman. Superb Turk food and hospitality including chai at the nearby ancient fishing village (where they harbour their 10 m. yacht). Returning on the crowded "otobus" (bus) to Seferihisar and Sigacik, a young man gave Skipper his seat. Skipper is again reminded of the good manners of Turks as well as his age!!

The "summer house" phenomenon is, generally, evidence of wealth. The "winter" house is usually an apartment in the nearby city. The "summer" house is usually a country or coastal, free standing, large, house. It is most likely, one of a similar design, in a gated (with guard) estate. The estates blight the countryside. The "summer" houses may be occupied for only a few months a year. They (and large European cars - usually black), are, for many, status symbols in a capitalist economy.

Winter rains return after weeks of cool, sunny days. Skipper works inside Sahula.

Skipper reads "A Peace to end all Peace - The fall of the Ottoman Empire and the Creation of the Modern Middle East," David Fromkin, 1989. It highlights a number of points: the "Great Powers" post WW I designs on the precarious post Ottoman, Turkey "State;" Ataturk's providential rise; the Middle East's lack of religious, cultural and political cohesion in the pre-WWI era that allowed arrogant European (devoid of universal human rights principles) carving of the modern States; an insight into the inherent problems in current Turk and Middle East politics.

Skipper sensed something wasn't right. The electrical plug from shore power seemed to spark, maybe it was a loose plug. Then the heater died with a burnt plastic odour. Skipper called the electrician but he came the next day. In the meantime a red light beamed out of the plug. A plug fizzed black and Skipper's finger burned pink. Then the grinder died. The electrician came; shore power was plugged into Red; not Blue. Red was for 380 volts industrial use. The Angels sang...

Lief and Eva, Swede cruising friends, so liked the colourful acrylic that Skipper gave it to them. An email shows it framed in their home. Skipper glows warm to know that in Sweden, a painting of Australia has a good home.

The deck needs painting. Skipper asks Sigacik chandlery for four litres. "Not standard colour (red, blue, white, black), no four litres, only 200 litres" !! Small lots are from the car repairers in the local "sunayi" or light industrial area.

Day dawns calm and sunny. Annalise phones for a long chat. The world is a small and smaller place. Skipper often wonders at the family cost of cruising. The "ether" ameliorates but cannot replace the face to face.

Next Report No. 37 - "Sigacik No. 3"

Best
David