Sahula Passage Report No. 37

Sigacik to English Winter

December, 2009


An art opening invitation from Turk friends, Alev, Shi, Sema and Serhat, had Skipper in Izmir. Artist Ekrem Kadak is from Cappadocia in central Turkey. His works captured the spiritual beauty of his region. After, artists, friends and Skipper gathered at a restaurant. Ekrem related his experience with the spirits of his land, while he and his compatriots reveled to songs and tales amidst many Raki (national Turk drink) toasts.

Traders camel caravans (sometimes with 1000 camels!!) wended their way across the dry lands enroute from India, Arabia and the Russian steppes to end their journey in Izmir's (and other large cities) caravanserai. There they rested and traded, in a large building that housed them, camels and their goods before again returning along the ancient routes. It is a large two storey, stone building encompassing a large central square. Today, it is the centre of jewelers and shop owners, trading with locals and tourists. Here Skipper "traded" for Xmas gifts bound for English relatives growing families.

Born "lithe and elegant" is no defense against winter chills. Cold, a cruisers bohemian lifestyle, impending travel and shore side fashion had Skipper updating his wardrobe. Low prices added to the incentive.

Oddly, Skipper could find no English Turk newspaper in Izmir. The "International Herald Tribune," (printed in Paris) is devoid of Turk news. Skipper is concerned at worsening civil unrest between pro and anti Kurd citizens. Skipper observed peaceful protests in Izmir.

The Izmir State Art and Sculpture Museum proved disappointing. Skipper was interested in the evolution of Turkish art..

Ozkan drives Skipper, on an odyssey of his youth, to the beauty of the nearby mountains and coastal towns.

Dogan, Turk friend, joins Skipper for an afternoon in Izmir and much chai.

Five days in Izmir and Skipper returns to Sahula. New LED lights, new taps, paint and many other items make it a fruitful trip.

The marina dredging required Sahula be relocated. As well the darkening horizon threatened a southerly storm that soon broke with a 30 knot gale. Sahula lay to the wind, mooring lines strained and fenders were tested. During the night, the gale changed with increased force to the south. Skipper awoke to find adrift, metal pontoons. These were averted to pass by. A foretaste of a deepening winter.

There is no logic in recurring storms. They come, they go. None last long. It can be a fine sunny day, when "crack" - thunder, lightening and gale (north or south) driven rain.

Seferihisar dentist Koray proves excellent and not expensive. Savas drove Skipper and assisted in finding boat items.

A fitting farewell: all day gales; Sahula lays to the concrete wharf. 0600 in morning calm, Skipper, rucksack bent, met Firat's (management) car to Izmir airport.

Pegasus Airlines flew along the Danube. Skipper commented on the gray barren eastern European landscape. "It is snow" - from the Black Sea to England - much to Skipper's surprise. Sister, Anne's cosy, thatch, English cottage warmed the minus 5 degrees.

Skipper was in England to be long absent brother to Anne, "uncle" to numerous family and to meet relations, over Xmas and New Year.

The adventurous English instinct is, for many, represented in Skipper "living the dream" lifestyle. Skipper met many aspirants straining against the bounds of comfortable lifestyles. The anchor of countryside, home, history, peace and stability no doubt succoured many sailors who expanded the Empire in distant, different, wilder lands.

Keel in the mud "Bristol Channel" fashion was helpfully mentioned as a possible inexpensive location for wintering in England!!!?

Sherbet, the dog, kept Skipper fit on his mistress, Anne's morning "rain, hail or snow" walk. Rain and snow won out. A white Xmas covered the Wiltshire (near Marlborough) hills and dales in all its cold natural beauty.

Xmas and Boxing Day family dinners ensured Skipper lost no "elegance." Children excited by a present pile, reminded of the joys past.

Patrick, in family (Deuchar) Scots kilt and family (in his and Liz's beautiful renovated riverside, thatch cottage) welcomed in, over a grand meal, 2010.

Skipper resolved to continue "living the dream."

Skipper reveled in London's Tate, National, Saatchi and Courtald art galleries. The Travelers Joy Hostel (Chelsea on Thames) provided inexpensive accommodation. A musical and a play gave added icing (?).

Transport and snow do not mix. "Spreader" trucks (salt grit) kept the arteries open to Marlborough. Skipper walked the night snow covered trail to "home" recalling the mountaineering years.

The marketing of the cruising life is no better displayed than at the London Boat Show. Technology is geared to comfortable adventure which it can never be. Safety at sea is more technology when it is only support. Skipper resolves to proceed "slowly." Is an AIS monitor (detecting shipping) when Sahula's radar and a good lookout seem sufficient? Is a Navtex weather report receiver required when Sahula's HF and VHF radio's, Winlink "Grib" files, and weather fax, seem sufficient?

Skipper joined the Cruising Association (based Limehouse, London). It provides information and assistance to the global cruising fraternity. www.cruising.org.uk

Three weeks in home, family and material comforts, tests or refreshes the adventurers resolve. Skipper joined Pegasus (airlines) to exit snow bound Europe for warmer Sigacik. Time out, with family and friends has deepened rather than depleted the "dream." Skipper will return through the French canals in 2011.

Turkey newspapers headlines: a failed coup, politicized army and courts, secular - v - Islamic state, anti-Kurd riots, foreign policy: Armenia, Georgia, Russia, Iran, Iraq, Lebanon, Syria, Greece, Cyprus. UK newspapers: MP's dip into public till, election campaigns, snow.

Skipper relishes time spent with sister, Anne, family and friends. Sahula and Turkish friends and hospitality again embrace. In a few weeks Skipper will be in Australia. In April, sailing the Mediterranean.

Rain, sun and a gale lays Sahula to the wharf.

Next Report 38.

David