Sahula Passage Report No. 39

Australia Feb- March 2010


It is a journey through culture time. Below Istanbul, East and West, a morass of concrete devoid of green, home to some 20 million. Over the dry Anatolian wastes; below numerous remote villages impossibly in amongst brown, white peaks; Dhubian white flowing robes, head dresses: ocean blue: sea of clouds, sunrise over the dry, red, Aboriginal "deserts" of the Great South Land.

Descending over Sydney, harbour sails, Opera House, Harbour Bridge, endless green suburban parks and gardens - a homecoming capped by an emotional "flood" ensued upon sighting daughters, Annalise and Nichola. Skipper is home.

Friends and family engaged in a social whirl. Recollections honed to spellbound and hilarious perfection. The different life of the cruising sailor contrasted to the city and suburban stimulation. Skipper soon not sure who heard what. Recount followed recount.

The bonhomie of friends and family, the face to face, tugged at Skipper's cruising resolve: to be back sooner or later, to "do" Europe or turn left at Gibraltar, are tossed and turned. Family and friends declare intentions to "crew" Sahula on an Aegean odyssey. Time in Sydney, Brisbane and Townsville is soon gone.

In Townsville, Jan and Mike's "Bon Voyage No. 2" dinner party enabled Skipper to have too short a time with many friends. In Sydney and Brisbane, Skipper's daughters generously yielded "sleeping" floor space. In Brisbane a slowly deflating "lilo" - courageously attempted to re-inflate with a hairdryer. Skipper slowly lowered to the floor. In Sydney, a mattress in the corner. Time slipped by - all too short.

In Bondi - iconic Sydney surfing beach, Skipper drenched in sun and surf with daughters and friends. Friends in beautiful homes on Pittwater and Moreton Bay exposed a lifestyle of home, boat and bay. Winter in Turkey seemed remote.

The cruising life was exposed as too free, almost surreal compared to those ashore whose daily life is bather in political and social - local, state, national and international - news and work. How much intellectual stimulation = its expression and varied sources - is disengaged by a cruising lifestyle. A cruiser finds stimulation in the varied people, history and culture. At times it seems such variation coalesces into a single, monolithic experience. Does the cruising lifestyle require the satisfaction of a change from the continual voyaging, to joining those ashore in their multifarious pursuits

Even a cruiser, in perhaps the least expensive of lifestyles cannot escape the financial reality. Skipper blithely cruised while economics burned. Invested funds were drastically reduced, requiring a reassessment of cruising plans. Skipper considered how to forge an income consistent with the lifestyle. The challenge is to maintain the benefits of a cruising retirement with a lifestyle consistent occupation. Writing, painting came to the fore. Both would require considerable discipline to make space within the practical needs of cruising. Returning, annually, to Australia to teach courses is another option. Skipper has found that the lifestyle can be sustained by a minimal income.

Daughters, living their lifestyles with apparent needs of parental input provided Skipper with another challenge. The enjoyment of being there is not overcome by technology utilizing communication in a far off place. Skype, technology provides voice and visual contact but does not supplant being present. It is a cost of cruising that this human need is lost. Special family events and aging offspring are inescapable losses.

Medical matters are another challenge. Skipper, in Australia, had a full medical check-up. On return to Turkey, events emphasised the need to have time and a familiar environment to resolve medical matters. Cruisers often take advantage of seemingly high quality medical attention overseas at less cost than home. However, in most cases, expense should not be high level criteria.

On return to Sigacik, Skipper suffered a virus (attributed to a long, plane flight). The marina (at no cost) arranged a local doctor (English speaking). Skipper also attended Seferihisar dentist (English speaking) who skillfully resolved the problem at low cost.

Skipper attended an eye doctor at the local hospital. In Turkey, the eye doctor assesses the problem and writes a glasses prescription. A glasses shop then assesses the appropriate glasses. The former spoke English the latter did not. Despite an English speaking marina staff attending both chambers, the glasses where unsatisfactory and expensive. Skipper settled for a lesser sum and the benefit of experience.

Skipper resolved to only attend medical personnel (in non-emergency cases) who spoke English.

Leaving a home country, where previously its dynamics fleeted by in the course of life, provides, on the return, an opportunity to overview. Skipper had been away two years. Australians lead a relatively free and bountiful life. Youth have an education and future of their making. Those older have security. Families set their own criteria. Individual independence is the core of Australian society. Democracy and liberalism define politics and economy to created a unique, modern lifestyle. "Culture" does not describe Australian society except in the Aboriginal community.

Skipper returned to Turkey to find headlines of a young wife's, culturally motivated, brutal assault by male family; of allegations of a deep state army political coup; of 14.5% unemployment and an economy growing by 7-8%; allegations of politically manipulated courts. It is a world away from Australia. In both countries, despite such concerns, people accept their lives and live in relative peace. It is good to be back. Skipper took some time to settle into the cruising mode.

Next Report Return to Sigacik,
David
Sv Sahula