Karimun Java to Kumai River

Nothing before prepares the traveler for Java. Least of all, Karimun Java, a set of island jewels off its sister's coast. The harbour master is guardian of Sahula while skipper and 30 other sailors enjoy a four day tour of Java.

By fast ferry and then bus we arrive at Semarang. The contrast is immediate. Traffic teems upon the roads and does so all the way to Yogyakarta. We travel in continual urban sprawl along what must surely be the longest strip development on earth. Towns, cities or villages are unidentifiable. The rice fields peep through.

Javanese are on holiday. It is "idul fiftri", the end of Ramadan, time to visit family. Families are in cars and massed motorbikes. The bus is at crawling pace. Families of two children on their bike, perilously thread the traffic. Life is cheap on the highway.

80% of Indonesia's population of 220 million, live in Java, most are Moslem. Given the lithe (and elegant) stature of Indonesians to date the influence is clearly visible of MacDonalds, Kentucky Fried amongst other western contributions of economic prosperity. Supermarkets stock poor quality, over sweetened foods. A mark of family economic success seems to be obese children.

Allah is great - across the villages and cities, all night, the cacophony of reverence reaches out to the faithful. Skipper is a guest of a village family in Tembi. A hard mattress and pillow on the floor, toilet a two step, water a scoop. It is a life of the basics, yet entirely adequate blessed with heartfelt hospitality. Our hosts provide a lovely meal, then breakfast. Morning dawns across fogged paddies, Allah reverberates from the many mosques, our hosts tends his three fine fighting cocks and pidgeons. It is Java in the raw.

From everyday village life to the ancient (600-700 AD) Borobudur and Prambanan temples. World Heritage sites to an illustrious Hindu - Buddhist culture. Their intricate, massive construction did not appease the gods. Earthquakes and volcanic eruptions forced their abandonment and their partial destruction till their rediscovery and rebuilding in the 1800 - 1900's. Rebuilding continues in 2006, due to an earthquake leveling the earlier (1980-1990's) rebuilding. Brick for brick, block for block these massive edifices have been and are, rebuilt and strengthened - a spectacular feat.

Their notoriety attracts the seething masses. Skipper and Thomas off the beaten track find a temple, remote and quiet. Its inner sanctum is reborn, resonating to an ancient Hindu chant beautifully done in a deep timbre by Thomas. It is a moment to remember.

The sailors are invited to dine at the Sultan of Solo's palace. Finery adorned (skipper in his batik shirt), a welcome by lady of the Royal family, entertainment by superb dancers, a palace tour and a beautiful dinner. The palace is a magnificent wooden structure, filled with furniture and artifacts. An elephant trunk, its ivory intricately carved in three dimensions, a present of another monarch.

A hotel, a traffic laden highway, a ferry and we return to beautiful Karimun Java. No one doubts their sailor lifestyle. We have seen the other side.

Sahula's new crew, Constantine, a young Bahasi speaking (8 years living in Java), German engineer, is aboard to Kalimantan. We overnight sail to arrive in the Kumai River and navigate to the anchorage in inky black. Next day the world of "Lord Jim," darkest green jungle borders the brown river. Kumai, 15 nm upstream is a busy mining and timber port. It's dominated by blank multi-story buildings which are revealed as home to small starlings. The bird's nests are sold on the Chinese market.

A day of contrasts. We receive a traditional welcome to the Dayak (ex head hunters) meeting house, then board fast traditional river "taxi" boats for a race set to the cheers of a river lined with waving locals. The race is on Kalimantan's "Venice", a waterway lined with stilt houses set out over the swift flowing waters.

A highlight is a visit to Yayorin Orangutan Indonesia, a non-government organization (NGO) that harnesses young Indonesians keen to save the orangutans' jungle habitat. Every minute a football field is lost to clearing. Yayorin encourages dialogue that seeks to encourage the villagers who own the jungle to refuse purchase offers from timber clearers (for timber and palm oil plantations) and consider their own and the forests future. They are having success albeit slowly.

In the evening the fleet are traditionally welcomed to the Sultan's Yellow Palace by sword swirling males and beautiful ladies all dancing to an amazing traditional band. The ladies (5, all sisters) and band are enthusiastic high school students. Later they again, over dinner, entertain in the presence of the Regent and Sultan. It is a night to remember. Skipper makes the speech of thanks and presents the Regent with a small Sail Indonesia token.

Skipper meets his ancestors. A tour operator has organized a traditional kiloton boat with three crew (captain, cook and guide) for a one night, two day, cruise into the Tan Jung Putting National Park - home to endangered orangutans. Skipper is with Richard, Barry (Lady in White) and Constantine. A guards come aboard to secure the yachts.

A klotok (motor clacking) makes few concessions to westerners. Its internal deckhead is stoop height. The loo is an open box on the stern. Sleeping is on the open deck on thin mattresses under mosquito nets. It is entirely adequate as is the food.

Down the Kumai, into the Sekonyer lined with palms and pandanus, its brown waters polluted by upriver illegal gold mining. We sight orangutan in the wild. Into a tributary coloured deep black-red by a rich "tea" of thick jungle tannin.

Camp Leakey, established in 1971 to rescue orangutans orphaned by hunters and timber getters, remains today a research centre and orangutan information centre and viewing site. They look bemused at the milling tourist's cameras recording their every move.

Orangutans "ape" (sic) the same life cycle as humans. They live to some seventy years, birth is after eight months, young are mother dependent for some eight years.

A BBC documentary records the Head of National Parks atop a pile of newly cut "national park" export logs. Clearing and mining continue today in the Park. Saving their habitat seems an almost impossible task.

The klotok is moored to the river forest. Above high in the canopy are proboscis (long nose) monkey families taking the evening air. Dinner's is to an audio visual of the living forest.

Morning's symphony over a misty canopy welcomes breakfast and jungle walk.

Life on Sahula has a different perspective; a sense that existence is out of balance with nature.

Sahula catches the river current into the Java Sea. It is three days to Belitung Island, the last Rally port before Singapore.

David
Sv Sahula