Passage Report No. 7

Sv Sahula

Brisbane to Townsville

The journey has begun; the destination is north to Darwin, Asia and Europe. All things start small.

Sahula departed Moreton Bay marina, stopping overnight in the Brisbane River to allow a visit to a chandlery.

As providence would have it, the anchorage included Melric 11, Dave and Fran from NZ, who Sahula met when anchored preparatory to crossing the Wide Bay Bar enroute south from Townsville. Now, they also were heading north to again cross the Bar so we sailed again in convoy before a fresh southerly, destination Double Island Point, an overnight sail away.

The yachts rounded Double Island Point and anchored in Wide Bay soon after midnight in inky black conditions. Always challenging as the anchorage is just off a surf beach.

Sahula had endured a voyage of twisting, gyrating and rolling amongst the confused and toppling waves. A night to forget, endured with the anticipation of crossing the Wide Bay Bar next morning to the welcome calmness of the Sandy Straits alongside Fraser Island.

It was not to be, for three days a low off the coast held the strong southerly in place, making for dangerous conditions on the Bar. The Coast Guard counseled that unless a 100 footer. It was wise to remain at anchor. Time passed pleasantly with visits between yachts. This coast is spectacular with high cliffs of "coloured sands" and large flocks of seabirds fished across the bay. Sahula shared it with a fleet of five yachts and resting fishing boats.

However, the idyll was soon to change. Electrical fumes filled the main cabin. It seemed incomprehensible, a new engine, new electrics, incredulously the fumes were real and fumes presuppose fire, the sea-persons worst nightmare.

A quick check found the source and a call to Melric 11 soon had Dave applying his expertise to a resolution. It seems the Wind Generator power generation had overloaded the wiring. A disaster was averted, lady luck continued to shine.

It highlighted the unique, selfless camaraderie amongst those called to the sea. It can't be understated how important it is to cruising. It is not only that it resolves a problem but that it keeps the many problems from being overwhelming and thus psychologically threatening to the voyage. Seeming disasters are kept at the level of challenges. It is said, cruising is doing maintenance in beautiful places.

It happened again, when Sahula joined the South Pacific ham operators, "Comedy Net." Sahula's VHF radio was failing to hold a frequency. The problem was canvassed over the Net and numerous Ham radio operators sought a solution which subsequently resolved the problem.

The seemingly isolated life at sea is, in fact, an intricate web of global friends.

Finally, the sea conditions abated and Sahula approached the Bar. "Bar Crossing" holds many fears. Bars, seeming passable, can spawn rogue waves that can damage, even capsize, passing yachts especially when approaching from the sea. It is quite difficult to assess the Bar's condition when viewing the back of the rolling waves. So all precautions are taken to prepare the yacht. It may be a surfeit of concern, worry and tension is necessary to feed the gods but history is littered with the unwary.

Sahula edged in, slowly following a course set by waypoints from the Coast Guard. Waves curled around her. One broke immediately astern surfing her forward, Tanya throttled back, and soon to great relief she entered the calm waters of the Sandy Straits.

She and Melric 11 enjoyed good sailing through the Straits to respective anchorages and to their voyages. Melric 11 was destined for the South Pacific, Philippines and Asia...

Sahula left the Straits for Bundaberg; a day sail away. Three days in Bundaberg had two purposes, one to enjoy friends, Fred and Lesley's company, two to "fix" the electrical panel. The former included dinner with Paul and Liz, who recently traversed the North West Passage (through the Canadian Arctic) in their aptly named steel12 metre sloop, "Fine Tolerance." They're now planning a Southern Ocean passage to Patagonia. Sahula left them with some envy.

For now Sahula was heading in the opposite direction, experiencing her first day in the northern balmy tropics. It was time to enhance the tan enroute to Pancake Creek.

It was also the first remote, untouched natural anchorage since leaving Sydney. It was spiritual to stand again under the swirling seahawks, smell the sweet forest, walk beaches swept by planet moved tides. A languid swim and sundowners against the ruby red sunset closed the day, making way for the stars.

Leaving an idyll is not easy. The waiting fleet off the port of Gladstone, of collier iron mammoths spelt reality.

Cape Capricorn passed by and so did three large white fuel guzzling motor cruisers. To some it is the arrival not the journey. Their contrast was stark to Sahula powered by wind and sun, in a sustainable symphony with the sea, swell and waves.

Keppel Island soon filled the glorious sunset. Keppel is one of Sahula's favourite places but the buffeting southerly, an unsettled anchorage and many sheltering yachts saw her leave the next morning for Pearl Bay. Not a soul waved goodbye!

After a 25 to 30 knot rolling, rocking, swell surfing sleigh ride, Sahula entered a place described by Alan Lucas ("Cruising the Coral Coast") as "... one of the prettiest anchorages on the coast, being surrounded by high step densely wooded hills and fringed by a superb hard sand beach..."

The compensation for leaving Keppel was Sahula had this beauty and the sunset over distant mountains, to herself.

As she had the wild beauty of this coast and the next anchorage at Cape Townsend. Well almost, to her amazement she passed a large sailing catamaran motoring south. Theirs was not an exciting "sleigh ride." I waved them well.

There are times when a place surpasses expectations. After a long day sailing past memories (Sahula spent a week here in 2006) on Marble Island and through the Lola Mantes Pass (between Marble and Hunter Islands), avoiding these waters sandbanks, shoals, rocky outcrops and strong currents, she rounded, finally, Curlew Island's headland.

It was an awesome sight. A calm, sweeping bay, lined by a wide golden beach and wooded hills all dominated by a spectacular, massive, rock bluff. It dominated this remote place, silent and iconic. Oddly, but thankfully, it got no more than a mention ("knob hill") in the Cruising Guide. Sahula will be here for three days. A beach walk disturbed two chattering guardian curlews.

A purpose of the few days here is to paint "plein air." The first work, "Sacred Mountain," is of the bluff. A climb of the bluff gave spectacular views to the surrounding islands. The second work, "Three brushes and a butterfly from the Sacred Mountain" takes in this view through life on the summit.

A further short bush climb to the base of the "mountain" revealed, under an overhang, a large shell midden. It was an eerie feeling to know that for so long, so long ago, people lived at this place, eating and sleeping. It is testimony to their seafaring skills and marine craft. The summit view into a small bay at low tide also seemed to reveal rock formations denoting fish traps.

Reality was restored when Sahula moored in Mackay marina to visit friends and restock for the final leg to Townsville.

That "leg" was a slow one. The strong Southerly deserted Sahula. Despite the MPS (like a spinnaker) on one side and the headsail poled out on the other, there was not enough wind. So "Tanya" took Sahula through the Whitsundays and onto the Gloucester Passage, Bowen and the anchorage at Cape Upstart. Sahula was in home waters.
"Home waters" had Sahula sailing close to Alva Beach and through many memories. These waters, this coast, are where the skipper, a carefree youth, sailed dinghies, explored sandhills, creeks, endless sunfilled days of family, friends and adventure from the beach hut to Cape Bowling Green.

Anchorage off Cape Bowling Green was aborted after trawlers swarmed nearby and Sahula by midnight was safely off Cape Cleveland and next morning was tied up Townsville's marina. The trip was over. Sahula was in her home port.

Ten days of preparation would next see Sahula heading to Cairns via Cardwell and then onto Darwin for the Indonesian yacht rally.

Best
David
Sv Sahula
Townsville

-----------------------------------------------

























Passage Report No. 7

Sv Sahula

Brisbane to Townsville

The journey has begun; the destination is north to Darwin, Asia and Europe. All things start small.

Sahula departed Moreton Bay marina, stopping overnight in the Brisbane River to allow a visit to a chandlery.

As providence would have it, the anchorage included Melric 11, Dave and Fran from NZ, who Sahula met when anchored preparatory to crossing the Wide Bay Bar enroute south from Townsville. Now, they also were heading north to again cross the Bar so we sailed again in convoy before a fresh southerly, destination Double Island Point, an overnight sail away.

The yachts rounded Double Island Point and anchored in Wide Bay soon after midnight in inky black conditions. Always challenging as the anchorage is just off a surf beach.

Sahula had endured a voyage of twisting, gyrating and rolling amongst the confused and toppling waves. A night to forget, endured with the anticipation of crossing the Wide Bay Bar next morning to the welcome calmness of the Sandy Straits alongside Fraser Island.

It was not to be, for three days a low off the coast held the strong southerly in place, making for dangerous conditions on the Bar. The Coast Guard counseled that unless a 100 footer. It was wise to remain at anchor. Time passed pleasantly with visits between yachts. This coast is spectacular with high cliffs of "coloured sands" and large flocks of seabirds fished across the bay. Sahula shared it with a fleet of five yachts and resting fishing boats.

However, the idyll was soon to change. Electrical fumes filled the main cabin. It seemed incomprehensible, a new engine, new electrics, incredulously the fumes were real and fumes presuppose fire, the sea-persons worst nightmare.

A quick check found the source and a call to Melric 11 soon had Dave applying his expertise to a resolution. It seems the Wind Generator power generation had overloaded the wiring. A disaster was averted, lady luck continued to shine.

It highlighted the unique, selfless camaraderie amongst those called to the sea. It can't be understated how important it is to cruising. It is not only that it resolves a problem but that it keeps the many problems from being overwhelming and thus psychologically threatening to the voyage. Seeming disasters are kept at the level of challenges. It is said, cruising is doing maintenance in beautiful places.

It happened again, when Sahula joined the South Pacific ham operators, "Comedy Net." Sahula's VHF radio was failing to hold a frequency. The problem was canvassed over the Net and numerous Ham radio operators sought a solution which subsequently resolved the problem.

The seemingly isolated life at sea is, in fact, an intricate web of global friends.

Finally, the sea conditions abated and Sahula approached the Bar. "Bar Crossing" holds many fears. Bars, seeming passable, can spawn rogue waves that can damage, even capsize, passing yachts especially when approaching from the sea. It is quite difficult to assess the Bar's condition when viewing the back of the rolling waves. So all precautions are taken to prepare the yacht. It may be a surfeit of concern, worry and tension is necessary to feed the gods but history is littered with the unwary.

Sahula edged in, slowly following a course set by waypoints from the Coast Guard. Waves curled around her. One broke immediately astern surfing her forward, Tanya throttled back, and soon to great relief she entered the calm waters of the Sandy Straits.

She and Melric 11 enjoyed good sailing through the Straits to respective anchorages and to their voyages. Melric 11 was destined for the South Pacific, Philippines and Asia...

Sahula left the Straits for Bundaberg; a day sail away. Three days in Bundaberg had two purposes, one to enjoy friends, Fred and Lesley's company, two to "fix" the electrical panel. The former included dinner with Paul and Liz, who recently traversed the North West Passage (through the Canadian Arctic) in their aptly named steel12 metre sloop, "Fine Tolerance." They're now planning a Southern Ocean passage to Patagonia. Sahula left them with some envy.

For now Sahula was heading in the opposite direction, experiencing her first day in the northern balmy tropics. It was time to enhance the tan enroute to Pancake Creek.

It was also the first remote, untouched natural anchorage since leaving Sydney. It was spiritual to stand again under the swirling seahawks, smell the sweet forest, walk beaches swept by planet moved tides. A languid swim and sundowners against the ruby red sunset closed the day, making way for the stars.

Leaving an idyll is not easy. The waiting fleet off the port of Gladstone, of collier iron mammoths spelt reality.

Cape Capricorn passed by and so did three large white fuel guzzling motor cruisers. To some it is the arrival not the journey. Their contrast was stark to Sahula powered by wind and sun, in a sustainable symphony with the sea, swell and waves.

Keppel Island soon filled the glorious sunset. Keppel is one of Sahula's favourite places but the buffeting southerly, an unsettled anchorage and many sheltering yachts saw her leave the next morning for Pearl Bay. Not a soul waved goodbye!

After a 25 to 30 knot rolling, rocking, swell surfing sleigh ride, Sahula entered a place described by Alan Lucas ("Cruising the Coral Coast") as "... one of the prettiest anchorages on the coast, being surrounded by high step densely wooded hills and fringed by a superb hard sand beach..."

The compensation for leaving Keppel was Sahula had this beauty and the sunset over distant mountains, to herself.

As she had the wild beauty of this coast and the next anchorage at Cape Townsend. Well almost, to her amazement she passed a large sailing catamaran motoring south. Theirs was not an exciting "sleigh ride." I waved them well.

There are times when a place surpasses expectations. After a long day sailing past memories (Sahula spent a week here in 2006) on Marble Island and through the Lola Mantes Pass (between Marble and Hunter Islands), avoiding these waters sandbanks, shoals, rocky outcrops and strong currents, she rounded, finally, Curlew Island's headland.

It was an awesome sight. A calm, sweeping bay, lined by a wide golden beach and wooded hills all dominated by a spectacular, massive, rock bluff. It dominated this remote place, silent and iconic. Oddly, but thankfully, it got no more than a mention ("knob hill") in the Cruising Guide. Sahula will be here for three days. A beach walk disturbed two chattering guardian curlews.

A purpose of the few days here is to paint "plein air." The first work, "Sacred Mountain," is of the bluff. A climb of the bluff gave spectacular views to the surrounding islands. The second work, "Three brushes and a butterfly from the Sacred Mountain" takes in this view through life on the summit.

A further short bush climb to the base of the "mountain" revealed, under an overhang, a large shell midden. It was an eerie feeling to know that for so long, so long ago, people lived at this place, eating and sleeping. It is testimony to their seafaring skills and marine craft. The summit view into a small bay at low tide also seemed to reveal rock formations denoting fish traps.

Reality was restored when Sahula moored in Mackay marina to visit friends and restock for the final leg to Townsville.

That "leg" was a slow one. The strong Southerly deserted Sahula. Despite the MPS (like a spinnaker) on one side and the headsail poled out on the other, there was not enough wind. So "Tanya" took Sahula through the Whitsundays and onto the Gloucester Passage, Bowen and the anchorage at Cape Upstart. Sahula was in home waters.
"Home waters" had Sahula sailing close to Alva Beach and through many memories. These waters, this coast, are where the skipper, a carefree youth, sailed dinghies, explored sandhills, creeks, endless sunfilled days of family, friends and adventure from the beach hut to Cape Bowling Green.

Anchorage off Cape Bowling Green was aborted after trawlers swarmed nearby and Sahula by midnight was safely off Cape Cleveland and next morning was tied up Townsville's marina. The trip was over. Sahula was in her home port.

Ten days of preparation would next see Sahula heading to Cairns via Cardwell and then onto Darwin for the Indonesian yacht rally.

Best
David
Sv Sahula
Townsville

-----------------------------------------------

Sahula -Passage Report No. 6

February- March 2008


Cruising is a life of contrasts. None more so than that between city and sea. Sahula stayed in Sydney for some three weeks. "Sydney" however was encapsulated in the beauty of Pittwater rather than the more raucous Harbour. Pittwater and fiord like, secluded, McCarrs Creek where the generosity of good friends, Tim and Helen, gave Sahula a warm "home" and a berth alongside their yacht "Freebooter." A marvelous memory was a dinner attended by three couples who'd circumnavigated the world, one in the sister ship to Sahula. As well a high point was meeting Tony and Sally, the original builders of "Sahula."

Apart from marvelous times with my daughter, Annalise and good friends, old and new, Sahula's had other good outcomes as well. Peter achieved wonders in redesigning the electrics including a very art-deco panel. Communications also improved, the ham radio and pactor modem now allow receipt of emails and chatter to fellow ham operators, world wide. As well, Sahula now has a blog. It will be where Passage Reports and other information will be posted, including photos and a tracking map.

Sahula's never saw the iconic Harbour Bridge due to Pittwater's enjoyable "port rot," arguably, a cruisers greatest threat.

However, the good times soon ended with the engineer calling for Sahula to return to Brisbane to install the new engine.

So with some sadness at leaving friends, not knowing when they'd be seen again, Sahula sailed north with the forecast of a southerly buster. She again sailed solo, under headsail alone with 24-30 knot wind gusts across a long Tasman Sea swell topped by numerous small "waterfalls." Few came aboard but the lee clothes prevented much water reaching the cockpit. However, the roar of nearby breaks tested the calm nerves especially at night. Through it all "Ariel," the self steering, guided Sahula north, her skipper enjoying the sail stretched along the cockpit bench. Once again, beautiful dusks and dawns, coastal scenery, schools of dolphins and gliding boobies, set the memories.

Again, "iron monsters" threatened but Sahula's route was largely closer inshore than the sea lanes to avoid the south setting East Australian current. However, "close" was adjusted seaward, when sailing through the islands just north of Coff's, a big breaker rose just off the starboard bow, much to the skipper's consternation and swift change in course. It must have been an unexposed bar, not able to ground Sahula but..... There were a few on the chart at the time. A lesson to keep further offshore in future.

First stop was Port Stephens arriving in the dark of early evening. The Coast Guard suggested Sahula take a vacant visitor's buoy off the local marina. Sahula stayed two nights to avoid the 40 knot gale forecast the next day. It was still blowing when Sahula left for Coffs Harbour. She arrived there after a night at sea. The strong southerly made entering the marina berth a distinct challenge. Quite a number of boat owners where enlivened to protect their craft when Sahula threatened them before successfully turning on her length between berths, in the strong wind. A miss is miss is a miss even if by millimeters.

The final leg was another overnighter before sailing finally into Southport, Queensland. After the peace of time at sea, the Southport/Gold Coast anchorage was intolerable due the nearby fun park, the helicopters overhead, the huge powerboats racing by. A shift to off a lovely beach further north, found peace and quiet.

Next day Sahula left early to catch the tide to ensure a safe crossing of the Jacobs Well shallows enroute to Manly through the channels between Moreton Bay's islands.

And so Sahula came to rest in Manly at the Moreton Bay Trailer Boat Club marina. "Rest" doesn't quite describe the process of installing a new engine. Sahula was lifted out onto the hard stand. The "old" Ford 70 hp was craned out, a new Yanmar 54 was craned in. In between time, over 12 hour days, the boat was in chaos, sleep was in the forward bunk, galley and saloon were reduced to standing room only, taken up with tools and materials moved to make room to work in the engine room and aft cabin.

Thankfully, after 10 days, in time for Easter, the boat was polished, newly antifouled and engined and back in the water. Sea trials announced "Tanya" (surname "Yanmar"!!) in good working order. A much relieved and exhausted skipper retired to his bunk to recuperate, feeling all of his years. Now to enjoy cruising.

Easter was with Emily motoring on Moreton Bay and meeting friends in their motor catamaran.

Now it's time to head off again. That will happen next week. Sahula will be in Townsville near the end of April. Then it's onto Cairns and Darwin for the Indonesia Rally which starts on the 26th July.

The application form and fee have been sent in, so the Rally is now a reality.

Now friends Sahula is inviting crew to apply. No experience needed, just a sense of adventure. If you'd like to join or just think about joining Sahula in Asia drop the skipper an email (djhaigh@gmail.com, VH4HBV@winlink.com ) or phone 0417 676 772. Be lovely to have you aboard. This should be done ASAP as officialdom will need names and documents to be entered on a Cruising Permit. You'll separately require a Visa.
.
Below is the list of the Rally ports and dates. The Rally may keep Sahula cruising Indonesia for three months over August, Sept and Oct till arrival in Singapore.

Best
David
Sv Sahula
March 2008

Kupang 1 August
Roti 3 August,
Alor 10 August,
Babar15 August
Wetar 16 August
Flores 20 August
Sumba 25 August
Sumbawa 30 August
Komodo 1 September
Lombok 5 September
Bali 15 September
Java 22 September
Bawean 25 September
Makassar 30 September
Bone Rate 2 October
Kalimantan 5 October
Ketapang 8 October
Kumai 10 October
Sumatra 12 October
Belitung 18 October
Singkep 20 October
Bintan25 October
Batam 30 October

Singapore Nov
Phuket December

Sri Lanka January, 2009
Cochin,lndia January
Oman Feb - March
Red Sea April - May
Greece Med Sea June
French Canals summer 2010