Biscay
14 July 2012 | La Coruna
JJ
Having been 'stuck' in Falmouth awaiting repairs we used the time wisely, by going off on our folding bikes to see the surrounding area, exploring little roads (with big hills) and found a quiet beach - sand stretching out with turquoise sea and a bar that had comfy sofa's and huge picture windows on an uncovered veranda. Coffee and cake - yummy.
We cycled under Falmouth's smallest church, a tiny building no bigger than a shed built up with an archway underneath, idillic but not big enough to hold a wedding party.
Whilst struggling our way up yet another steep hill Jacq stopped and Pete noticed a small archway leading to what looked like a garden. On exploring we found a sheltered garden, beautifully maintained hidden inside a rock formation with another cave like structure that revealed a grotto covered in a mosaic of shells.
We took a bus to Truro where we wandered around the myriad of shops and intentionally going to look round the cathedral. To our suprise there was an organ demonstration - free of charge. We spent the afternoon learning about how each component, pedal and pipe works, what sounds they produce and why and snippits of music to demonstrate this. This was followed by an organ recital, whereby 4 organists played a variety of music - some haunting, some rousing. We were treated with a final peice of the theme tune from Thunderbirds!!!! Strange hearing such music in a church but suited the organ well.
The following morning took a slow cycle into Falmouth and this time was treated to music from a guitar busker- such a contrast but beautiful to listen too.
The time had finally come- having checked the forecast, long range forecast and Grib file (predicted wind maps) we decided the time was right to get across Biscay.
We stowed the gear we had gradually brought out over our stay and set off in a westerly wind (about a force 3 which means the boat starts to sail well). As we left we sailed past a number of anchored big ships and sailed on a close hauled track towards Ushant.
About 5 mins after passing 2 ships anchored together we heard a call on the radio reporting a large oil slick right where we had sailed (Pete asked how much fuel we had indicated on the guage- just in case it was us- but we were fine).
We sailed through the day towards Ushunt and the shipping lanes. Unfortunately – as always- the wind was determined to blow from exactly where we wanted to go , so we pushed on close hauled until we were just inside the traffic separation lane (not supposed to be here!), where we put on the engine for about 2 hours just to get to where we needed to be. Good news- the engine behaved beautifully.
And so on into the night.... uneventful and we got into the 4hours on 4 hours off system of watches.
The wind continued as a steady force 4-5 and we sailed beautifully at between 5 and 8 knots.
One night watch saw Pete calling up a big ship on the radio as it looked like she was going to run us down!! A frantic – please state your intentions as you are on a collision course (big motor boats should give way to sailing boats), the reply was 'I will be passing port to port and clearing you by 3 cables'. (- well that's all right then!! ) - he did indeed clear us but we could almost have washed his hull for him on the way past.
The trip was uneventful until day 4.Jacq had retired to bed and was for the first time in the trip undressed in a nightie- (you seem to just stay in the clothes you are in as it is too difficult to stand long enough to get changed) . A shout from Pete brought her into awareness -'Dolphins'.
Jack shot up, pulled on leggins and jumpers over nightie and raced on deck. There were 3 dolphins – 2 adults and baby- swimming alongside the boat. They played alongside for about 20 mins then disappeared. Having got up breakfast was called for and we treated ourselves to egg and bacon sandwiches with fresh orange juice. It was reasonably warm if a little cloudy but pleasant enough to eat comfortably in the cockpit.
Within about 15 mins the dolphins returned. Pete clipped onto the safety harness and ventured to the front of the boat. Jack went back down into the cabin, donned on lifejacket and followed him as swiftly as she could whilst healing at a 45 degree angle!
We were treated to about 2 hours of dolphins playing in our bow wash- charging towards the boat and veering suddenly to miss it. They jostled for position to get in the bow wave and took it in turns to swim with the baby ensuring it did not get too close.
One swam away from the boat and skimming along a huge wave jumped out of the water doing a back flip! (like something on a wildlife film).
They also spent some time exploring the Duogen water propeller which was being towed behind us. It produces lots of bubbles as it spins and I think the dolphins were unsure as to what it was so kept swimming towards it then veering off just before reaching it- it may have been the noise, bubbles of spinning that attracted them, whatever it was it was fascinating to watch.
After they left us we continued sailing with a gradual increasing wind. We decided to reef both main and jib and this took pressure off the rig and actually increased our speed a little.
Mid afternoon there was a sudden change in the weather and sea state. The wind suddenly picked up blowing a steady 26 knots with gusts of 31!!!! that is a force 6 (not our chosen strength to be out).
We remained well reefed down and kept on course, the waves built and we began crashing into the waves sending green water everywhere.
When checking our course it was obvious we would not make the headland we needed to and so put in a tack only to go backwards from where we had gone. The decision to start the engine to get us further north was made and we continued to crash through the waves. The sails were flapping wildly so we furled first the jib then the main, this left us motoring through big seas into the wind. There was water everywhere. One minute we were on top of a wave and the next crashing down into another one, the bow of the boat burying into the wave, water pouring across decks and often over us.
Pete went below again to check our progress and noticed there seemed to be a fair bit of wet down below decks, then another huge wave hit. He then witnessed why there was water on the floor- as he stood there water squirted out of the air vents into the boat, running down walls, into the TV and near the computer. At the same time water seeped in from around the main windows and poured in from the hatch covering the steps.
When he returned on deck he said we would have several more hours of this and then having put in another tack about another 60 something miles to Bayona. Looking at each other we decided La Coruna sounded like a good bet so fixed our course to make a run to there.
We carried on into the night and thank goodness the wind gradually abaited to around 24-26 knots, the sea calmed a little and we made our way to La Coruna.
Unfortunately one of the golden rules of sailing is do not arrive in an unknown port at night as lights on the land make it very difficult to see where you are supposed to be going. It is not like when you drive a car, there you have headlights lighting your way, imagine driving a car on a country lane, no lights on and no moon, well that is what it is like plus you have the under water dangers of rocks etc to avoid. Thankfully skilful use of the electronic navigation by Pete and communicated to Jackie using the hand held radio's to allow him to be heard above the thud of the engine and whistle of the wind, we slowly inched our way into the safety of the bay and then marina. Again not asimple task as there is a concrete wall just outside the marina and you have to come in between the submerged concrete wall and a fort/ castle which sits on an island just to the south of the marina.
We reached the mooring at about 0215.
The first attempt at mooring was aborted as the strong wind and fast current meant Jacq did not quite judge the line required to reach the pontoon and having been so tired we had only put mooring lines out on the starboard side. This meant backing up the aisle and starting again. Second time was perfect and we quickly secured the boat to a pontoon,realising too late it was a short finger pontoon made for smaller craft, however still ok so we just tied up and went down into the cabin to prepare for some needed sleep.
We were met with wet everywhere. There were only 2 cushions that were dry enough to sit on and so we had a drink, a piece of toast and stumbled into a slightly damp bed for some well earned sleep.
So... what now?.....
Well we need to dry out. Us, clothes and cushions.
We have a new list of jobs to do including :
mending the spray hood which decided to come apart letting in even more water
finding something to bung the air vents to prevent future internal seawater spraying of the boat
re secure the anchor following the securing rope sheering
seal the windows to stop leaks
However … its raining!!!!!!!