The Final Slog
01 May 2019
Michael Devany
Today finds me anchored up off the town of Ciotat, still 40 nm from delivering the boat to Port Napoleon. The last week and a half has been spent mostly in port, waiting out the weather.
We had crossed quickly from Italy to avoid the mistral (winds out of the west). Then once we got into Nice, saw the formation of the Marin (east winds). So we headed to the other side of Antibes, and waited out the Marin. Those high winds went on for days, and we finally left thinking that we would have a good transit day. But that only lasted part of a day before strong winds and waves from the south tookover.
We found safe anchorage in a cove called Canebiers (Can of beers?) for the night. Evidence of the recent Marin was in the form of a boat washed ashore. Nice spot next to the city of Cannes, but no time to explore. Knowing that the mistral would be blowing over the upcoming weekend meant that we had to move on. So we got underway at first light and were soon sailing in storm force winds and waves from the south. It was fifteen miles to shelter from the outlying Porquerolles islands, and it was nice to have a bit of calm for a bit. We chose to anchor for a few hours so we could all catch some rest. Well worth the stop, and there were lots of charter boats out and about in the area protected by the islands. But we still had about 70 nm to go to Port Napoleon, and that wasn’t going to happen with us sitting at anchor. So back underway, and we rode the south winds into the harbor of Toulon.
Toulon was a working town, quite different from the typical French Riviera cities that catered to high value tourism. The daily market was fun to walk through and see all of the fresh produce, roasted chickens, and street foods. The folks at the port were very helpful, as we explored the idea of leaving the boat in Toulon so that I could fly home on schedule. In the end, that idea didn’t pan out, so flights were changed, and here I am continuing the transit to Port Napoleon. Tracy and Lesley caught the train to the Marseilles airport for the flight home, and I got the boat ready for departure.
The mistral looks to have blown itself out last night, so I headed out this morning. Winds in the harbor were light, and the seas outside the harbor were calm. The only real excitement departing Toulon was the sound of gunfire. I saw a series of hits in the water about a mile away, and figured that I was on the edge of a navy firing range. Probably something worth marking on the chart for those that might have ventured further inshore.
Next, I had to round Cape Cicie and according to the forecast, I expected only a big swell around the cape. Of course, forecast was a bit inaccurate, with 25 kt gusts and heavy seas instead. So I ducked back in behind the cape, and found a nice clothing optional beach to anchor in front of for a couple of hours. Well sheltered, and good holding in the sand.
I figured I’d stay a bit until conditions matched the forecast. After about an hour, it didn’t look to be laying down much, and as I had no desire to round the cape in the dark, I got back underway. Motoring with my trusty staysail, we pushed around the cape, and then went looking for some shelter for the night. My bailout anchorages that I’d picked out beforehand weren’t really suitable, so I continued on to where I’m now anchored at Ciotat. There are a dozen or so other boats all waiting for the winds to drop, so I’m in good company. I’ve been watching the seas off the point, and they look to be dropping as the evening progresses. With luck, tomorrow’s weather will closely resemble the forecast.
Almost there! So close, yet so far.