Loving being in Valdivia for the second time around
10 January 2019
Well it’s been a while again...and I can’t procrastinate any longer- after all, it is the new year. Last year at this time we were almost ready to start heading north from Puerto Williams. We started leisurely - determined to enjoy the anchoages - and did so for the most part. No matter how hard you try to pace yourself, though, there come strong winds or rain and you start playing a “go while the going is good” game to sneak another base while the weather pitcher winds up. We hopped from one protected anchorage to another and did our spiderweb ties to shore.
My last blog was sent from Caleta Tortel nearly 9 months ago after a water taxi barrelled into us when we were at anchor. That did shake us up. All the tasks ahead suddenly became daunting; dealing with the insurance claim, filling with fuel, propane and provisioning, plus renewing our tourist visas. Not to mention the most challenging parts of the trip lay ahead of us- the Golfo de Penas and the Golfo Corcovado. It was looking like we would have to make a day trip to Cochrane 2 hours away for most of the preparations and we had lost our confidence to leave the boat at anchor alone! Thankfully some thoughtful locals helped out by selling us fuel and letting us tie up to a sturdy mooring.
Dave made safe the damage on the bow and we headed off with trepidation.
In the accident I got a bang on my head and had a headache, neck and back pain. I could only tolerate sitting behind the helm where the movement of the boat seemed easier on my back. Therefore when I wasn’t on watch I was lying down or preparing quick meals. We did both the challenging crossings at night and the golfo was pretty rough but we managed to tuck in safely to caleta cliff on the other side, which we had been to before. I think we got away without anymore shoretying after that which was fortunate as I did not feel up to it.
When we arrived on Isla Chiloe, it was like arriving in a different country. Peaceful pastoral anchorages, quaint churches... and sunshine!! We had some lovely protected anchorages and great walks as we planned our way north on the east coast of Chiloe. Things really started looking up when we met up with our friends Mark and Rosie on Merkava on Isla Abtoa. We were able to enjoy long walks and catch up while we waited for the right exit out of Canal Chacao. It had to be timed carefully taking in the speed of wind ( always from the west) , the direction and speed of current, wind against current etc.
First part- A-OK, mind you we were almost flying. Then the wind got up higher than expected, against the strong current and it proceeded to become the most challenging passage I’ve ever been on . We had considered going right out and anchoring in Caleta Godoy on the outside, but the weather had changed and we did not want to fight against strong northerlies at any point to get to Valdivia. So we pulled in at the lighthouse in strong winds. Rosie pointed out that what we had just been through had all happened in a few hours! Anyways they had caught some kelp in the propeller so on top of being burnt out from the wild passage Mark had to dive in and saw the kelp off his propeller. The next day we decided to move backwards toward Ancud to Caleta Deeks to wait out the following days off strong northerlies. It was one of the most protected anchorages we could remember and offered long walks in the sunshine. At the first agreed upon weather window, we set off together and arrived into the Rio Valdivia together 24 hours later. Heart and Soul pulled in at Alwoplast and Merkava settling right beside us at marina Estancilla. Of course this called for a celebration and off we went to the first of many eat-outs at El Growler with the cruisers from both marinas.
Next followed the painstaking setting up of the work to be done on the insurance claim acting as go betweens for the insurance company and the boatbuilders. Luckily, evenings were lightened up by getting together with friends.
Both Rosie and Mark and Dave and I left for home (Australia and Canada) for six months and returned back at around the same time.
We just passed a very special Christmas anchored out with Rosie and Mark and a few other cruisers. Just before New Years , Merkava set off . Their plans are to take in the festival on Easter Island , then Hawaii, Alaska and home to BC arriving October 2019. Our plans are to take in French Polynesia hopefully on a 6 month visa, then Hawaii, and arrive home in July 2020.
But first things first - the mast needs to be put back in! Happening as we speak. Also, something has come up that I must go home for next week. SO by time time I get back and we apply for our 6 month visa, we’ll hopefully be able to take off in May for French Polynesia.
Meanwhile we do love it here in Valdivia. It is summer here now, roughly a similar latitude to Northern California and it would be like our July. It gets intensely hot for a few days, then some southerlies come through with the cold Antartica air and you need to dress for the cold! There are actually 3 boats here from Canada (there was 4 when Merkava was here). We’ve got a young Austrian family beside us on the dock. Baby Isabella is 8 months old and has stolen everyone’s hearts.