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16 February 2011 | Vigo, still...
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Catamaran Cuisine - I Heart Crunchy Goat Cheese

21 February 2011 | Vigo, Spain
Skip T
We're back in Vigo and at one of our local hangouts for tapas, La Trastienda Del Cuatro, but for lunch today. Have been intrigued by their menu but have only had their tapas until now. Oh, and many of their fabulous variety vinos tintos.

It's a rainy day (wow, that's unusual, written in sarcastic font) and we've got a car for a few more days so we decide on a hearty lunch down in the old town by the main marina. So, at exactly 2 p.m. (still can't seem to get my stomach on the Spanish food schedule), we ask for a seat in the nearly empty restaurant section. Frankly, I'm realizing that there is a little less ambiance by the servers are less rushed and so I don't feel so guilty taking a lot of their time while I try to recite every menu item we want, verbatim. Today took even longer as I lingered over the Spanish menu and then compared it to the English translated menu. (It's a bit unusual to have an English menu but down by the larger harbor where some cruise ships come, it's more typical. I'm always a bit annoyed, but have to say that I love to read full descriptions in menus. Especially when the translation is a bit "off".)

Today, Steve had already made up his mind on his entrée while I was still in the Granacha section of the wine list. He was toying with either the raviolis with duck confit and nuts in foie sauce or the chicken stew with beans and seasonal mushrooms. Hang on buddy...you're way ahead of me. So to catch up when our server comes I make a hasty move. I review only the hot starters and skip by the cold starters and salads. Big mistake, which I realize when she leaves and I've had more time to go over my choices. Once on the ensaladas page I'm face to face with my error. My eyes quickly move to the Ensalada de Jamon de Pato y Rulo de Cabra Caramelizado. What?! A salad with duck ham and carmelized goat cheese. I stir in my chair while Steve keeps his eye on our server. Oh no! She's starting to make her way to the kitchen with our order of Tempura Mixto, which is clearly the wrong choice given that there is caramelized goat cheese available. I have to make my move quickly but I don't want to startle her. (I am about 13 inches taller). "Senorita, please we want to change, we would like the goat cheese salad instead." She gives me a look that says "good choice".

While we enjoying our wine we look around at the décor of the restaurant. We had been to the vinoteca in the front several times but had only glanced through to the restaurant section. (Oh, and let me give up a big amen to the Spanish for instituting the "no smoking in restaurants" ban this year. Muy bien.) The whole place is a cute, white-washed look with eclectic old-fashioned lights and 30's, 40's and 50's memorabilia. Another signature is their sprinkling of smooth glass "stones" on every table. They're irresistible. I dare anyone to not play with them. Our neighbors even played a game with them. Anyway, it was the type of place with mismatched chairs and buttons and vases, but yet it all looks put together - chic but quaint.

Our salad arrives, and we look at each other as if we have found a secret treasure. First of all, who would have thought that duck could weigh in against pig in the cured product arena? But even more daunting than that is how someone thought of the perfect use for a blow torch. Yes, crème brulee is lovely, but you DO NOT even know how sugar, a blow torch and goat cheese can blow your mind, if you haven't had this before. Picture a 3-inch round of soft, creamy, rinded goat cheese (not too tart) with a hard, crunchy, sugar shell. We could have stopped right there...

Steve had decided on the duck confit ravioli. Very tender pasta pockets filled with a subtle but meaty duck filling, sitting in a rich and creamy sauce, then drizzled with a balsamic reduction. For my money, it needed a big handful of salty Reggiano or even Manchego (my new favorite hard cheese for pastas). Delicious nonetheless.

I took our server's recommendation - the oxtail. The menu description translated to mille-feuille crunch with oxtail and pineapple on cream of seasonal mushrooms. No wonder it didn't catch my eye. First of all, for a foodie, I've been a bit reluctant to dive into the "oxtail zone". Mistake! What a fool I've been. It's basically a slow-braised, tender and lusciously fatty meat. Second of all, in my opinion, chef's should stay away from any descriptions that use pineapple. You can use it, but don't talk about it. All I can envision is some sticky sweet and sour pork from Bamboo Garden or Sam Ting's (that's an inside joke...let's see who gets it). No really, pineapple isn't something you cook with in my opinion - save it for the Pina Colada garnish. Finally, mille-feuille crunch is not a phrase I would have known to be the pastry dough of Napoleons. Hello! What's better than tender, tasty meat? Tender, tasty meat wrapped in light, crispy pastry.

My plate arrives - scratch that...my slate arrives with my oxtail-filled pastry on top of a creamy swirl of pureed mushrooms and drizzled with honey. All sitting atop a cool, rectangular piece of black slate (is all slate black? Well then, that's a bit redundant isn't it). It was too delicious. Salty and sweet - tender and crisp. My only complaint would be that unfortunately, mushrooms turn to a bit of a nondescript gray-brown when pureed. I was able to overcome this slight imperfection and finish my slate. ; )

Many times we keep our wits about us and don't order any further. Um, not today. Not when there is something with ice cream on the menu and not when your husband loves ice cream. So, we order the Brownie with Soup of Saffron Orange Sauce and Grand Marnier Ice Cream. I was skeptical that the ice cream would just be orange flavored, which would be tasty but a bit deceiving. Nope. It was exactly as described. It tasted like a creamy, cold sip of Grand Marnier. It was the perfect thing along with the slightly tart saffron-orange sauce, to cut the intenseness of the "brownie". The last glass of Rioja didn't hurt either.

So, now we've been reunited with Vigo. Thanks for the welcome home from our favorite vinoteca, La Trastienda del Cuatro.

http://www.latrastiendadelcuatro.com/
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Vessel Name: At Last
Vessel Make/Model: Lagoon 400
Crew: Cap'n Steve & Skip T
About:
Steve & Tracy are from southern California and decided to follow their dream in 2010; sell their home, say "see ya soon" to family, friends and their Chelsea, get rid their worldly possessions (well most), buy a catamaran and take off to see the world. [...]
Extra: FB: Tracy Bryant Van Anda

Who: Cap'n Steve & Skip T