On our way down the southern Sicilian coast we found a new marina that looked like a good place to stop for a night or two. We landed in Ragusa, down near the southern tip of Sicily. From the time we hit the dock (no, I haven’t hit the dock since…well, who’s asking?), we’ve been part of the winter cruising community here in Ragusa, which is comprised of mostly Brits, Dutch and, yes, Americans! (We’ve only met two Americans total in the Med and one couple was originally Guatemalan) So, imagine our surprise when we head on down the dock to get some grub and we are greeted by several Americans. Here, there are so many Americans on one pontoon that they’ve nicknamed it Pennsylvania Ave.

A couple from Stockton, California just a couple of boats down, urged us to have a drink with them and their Brit neighbors. We were welcomed onto their Dolphin 46-ft catamaran with open arms, a glass of local wine and some homemade banana bread. A great way to meet the neighbors! After talking for just a bit we came to find out that they’ve had their boat for 6 years and spent much of their time in Santa Margherita on the west coast of the Italian mainland. Steve said that it was funny since we were in that bay about 5 years ago and he recalls vividly seeing a Dolphin Cat like their’s. In fact, he had taken a picture of it because it was a big inspiration for him. Our new friends said that we must have a picture of their boat since it’s been the only Dolphin in that bay, probably ever. Of course later we sent him the picture and yes indeed, it was their boat. I am continually amazed at how “small” the world really is.

Our neighbors also filled us in on local info; where the best market was, who had the best deal on wine, how to get to the bus stop…all the usual things, as well as letting us know that there is a “net” every morning at 9 a.m. over the VHF radio, a Ladies Who Wine outing every Monday, Quiz night at the marina café, and a group that powerwalks every morning at 7:30 sharp. I was amazed. Really, in other marinas we’ve been lucky to meet someone who knows where the laundry is, so this was quite a departure. That said, we said our goodnights and reminded ourselves to listen to the “net” the next morning.

9 a.m. (ok, really 9:15…) and we’ve got coffee in our hands and the VHF dialed to 72. There is a group leader and she goes through various topics for discussion; technical issues, weather forecasts, for sale or trade items, and then the social calendar. Yes, a social calendar! They go onto discuss the date of the next potluck, which couples are leaving for home (and going away parties), what time and which pontoon yoga is on, and finally where and when Happy Hour will be held tonight. They end after the topic of washing vegetables is discussed and the local chemist confirms that indeed, blah blah blahsphate, is a practical solution to cleaning vegetables since the other product the ladies were using, ever since they found it in Egypt, was not available here in Sicily. Wow.

And so as we trek along the dock to take our laundry to the marina Laundromat, we are greeted by dozens of neighbors, all friendly and all English-speaking. How strange to see so many live-aboard people and even more strange, most greeting us with our native “Hello”. Oh, and all “older”. As you can imagine, not too many younger people live this lifestyle. Sometimes you meet young families that have taken a sabbatical or die-hard sailors that decide that they simply must live on the sea (and usually take odd jobs to support themselves along the way), but mainly it’s your retired bunch.

So, I have aptly named our new community Leisure World of the Med. These, however, are the liveliest bunch of snowbirds that you’ve ever seen. Every day, besides the routine yoga and powerwalks, you see women washing clothes, linens, sails, etc. in buckets and hanging them to dry, men scrubbing hulls or tightening lines or fixing something (there is always something to fix!), or couples riding their bikes uphill to town for their marketing or other errands. No Rascals or golf carts here – no way!

I’ll sign off now since I need to bring in the laundry and get ready for the social hour at the local watering hole. There is a cheap glass of Nero D’Avola with my name on it and some hen-talk for an hour. Looking forward to it!