Sailing BABS

15 February 2021
24 November 2020
21 August 2020
20 May 2020
13 September 2019
07 June 2019 | Panama
15 May 2019
02 April 2019 | Guadaloupe, Antigua, Barbuda, Sint Maarten
02 March 2019 | St Lucia, Martinique, Dominica
18 February 2019
28 December 2018 | Gomera to Grenada

The UK, Costa Rica and Ecuador

21 July 2019
Amy Manning
Well well well...shit loads has gone on in the last 6 weeks resulting in my procrastination of this blog but I'm now settled on me sweaty leather seat so ere goes..

Luckily we didn't get hit by a mighty strike in Las Perlas and left the next day motoring on a glassy sea...peering at dolphins some way off to port. Back anchored in Panama City we stocked up in Albrook mall for Bens 2 weeks alone while I toddle off back to Essex...wahoooooooo! I'm crazily excited...didn't mention it in me other blogs as I didn't want me mate Jack catching a sniff of it whom I was planning to surprise. We attempted to go to the cinema as our boaty friends had said they'd watched a film there in English. Paid for the tiks and had our bags put in storage before being told that it was in Spanish...bum chuckles! Went and munched out at a Lebanese restaurant near the boat insteadπŸ˜‹ The next day I got 2 buses to the airport 1.20 hours away..very easy and cheap. I'll split the next part into our 2 separate stories while trying to keep in brief!

9/6/19 - 23/6/19....MANNING
Can't keep the smile off me mush, my gut creating that excited feeling u normally get before xmas as a kid πŸ€— 11 hour plane to Frankfurt next to a rather wide man who's elbow encroached into ma space but the plentiful grub and films made gunty happy 🐷1 Hour wait at Frankfurt before a short flight to London city, overland train then mainline to Witham to meet mummykins...brilliantly easy! It's amazing how easy and simple everything seems after sailing and dingying!

Spent a couple of nights at mums stopping off at Aldi on way back from train station and marveling at the variety and low prices. Mums pull out bed was like heaven with a soft, squishy pillow...defo need to upgrade the boat pillows. Had a lie in as had only slept for a couple of hours in the previous 30. Walked around Maldon and bumped into me mate Nat....soooo spiffing to just bump into ppl you bloody love. Mum then drove us to see Lila-her mum in law who wanted to see pics of my handsome boyfriend..lolz! Back in mums beautiful, cosy house we got our cook on producing a fantabulous roast dinner and orange and lemon cheesecake...get in maaaaa belllllyyy! All da family came over, had a brilliant time catching up...me and mum keeping off the booze and still feeling grand.

Mum drove moi to Brightlingsea the next day as I keep getting this constant need to wee thing and ache under right hand ribs. Doctor ordered tests for the coming days...(had to shove me shit in a tiny tube-gag worthy I tell ye!) these came back all clear so I can put me mind at rest and attempt to not be such a hypercondriact. Ant showed me his new house before me n Dee went for walkies around B.sea in the rain..my new waterproof jacket I bought in Maldon from a chazza shop not living up to it's main aim but feeling truly happy. Knock on me old neighbours house as Dee heads home and have a good ol catch up with Rose n George. Bus to Colchy and have a mega evening with Jess, Sam and Livvy. Feel very privileged as they'd saved jess's mums homemade lasgana to share with me...very delish! Apparently Livvy hadn't been sleeping recently...However she slept well that night due to constant anxiety of me not so cute face crowding up her living room! mehehehhe . Bit of colchy time meeting jess for lunch before heading for the grand reveal in Ipswich.
Met Jess (Milner) off the train and I put on her coat, hat and sunnies looking uncannily similar and holding her dog on lead...lolz. Sooooo excited...feel like im gunna wee meself...had been thinking of this moment for ages and getting excitedness in me gut. Waited round the corner for jack to come home from work...knocked on his door and put on a Milner type voice in greeting. He looked very confused as we had a big ol hug and he patted my face...then he got very excited and made us a delish dinner. His planned shopping trip got junked in favor of getting pissed-My first drink in 2 months and 3 weeks...first wine spritzer gave me a headache but I soon got into the swing...was great to have jack all to meself at the pub for a catch up before heading home to meet Simon, Jess and Jim for more sillys. I felt alright in the morn as had a couple of waters in-between the wines...jack rang saying he had an awful hangover at work. Woopsy doopsy. Bit of shopping back in colch heading to meet jess, nao and their kids for a walk along the river to Rowhedge chugging down a cider at the local pub sitting on fresh green grass...bus back and a night out at Coda seeing lots of wonderful friends. Kelly driving from an hour away to meet us...feel soooo lucky to have such mega peeps in me life. King driscolls cancelled their gig which annoyed me greatly but there was so many people to speak too I had a fucking mega time anyways.πŸ€ͺ Dee drove us back to the yard in St Osyth and I managed to do some exercise in the morn...this has NEVER happened after a drinking sesh! Fab party at Rum n tings the next day partying with Dee, Hayley, Aidan, Dan and many other legends! Kip in Dee's van and she drives us back at 6am and we slept in the house till 12am...day of films, grub and a walk into the fields...fuck-England is bloody beautiful..Dee made us a massive bowl of vege spag bol to end the day...yummerz!

Steph kindly treks from London to chum see me and we have a long walk around the estuary in Brightlingsea....sooooo great to catch up even though he was doing me in with some shaky egg (musical instruments) things😜 Gave me some great advice as I'd been saying I wanted to learn summink...he recommended the penny whistle. He knows me very well and understands I need summink simple, so as this has only 7 notes it sounded perfect. It's also small and cheap so perfect for the boat. Poor ol bens ears gunna be avin a sorry ol time thou ...mwhahahahahha. Time whizzed by meeting me brother and Tash on the beach after sending Ant some sexy (womanly) pics of steph which I knew would get running stephs way ❀ Floz also made her way down from the big city and we had an epic time laughing our way through the evening, burning veg on the bbq. We both stayed at Dee's for the night coz dee was shitting her pants (lolz) as a possible ghost had knocked down 2 different stacks of dvds while we were at the yard the night before.

Back in B.sea for 10am to join the beach school and meet up with Nao, Lil and lots of bens family. Floz talked me into avin a dip in the freeeeezing sea and we had some grub with Jane and Andy (bens parents) and bens cousins/auntys etc. Met Josh and Emma in the pub garden with their little-un and jane and andy before fully gut stuffing with a Chinese back at me bro's. Woke up with a Chinese hangover. Went for lunch with mum the next day in colchester...twas raining and no-one about in the arvo so got meself cwumfy in the cinema to watch Aladdin. Climbing time....met the 'Darps' and had a climb with hayley. Aidan sat out and munched pizza as he had done his back in trying to do a trick on his bmx πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ Bens bro gave me a lift back to b.sea and spent the rest of the night having a good ol chat with Ant. Went to meet lil, kids and her mum the next day letting the twins play where they're not supposed to. Jolly fun...then met jess in b.sea before a bit of time playing Sonic back at Ants. His girlfriend Tash is exceptionally thoughtful. I mentioned my 'food wish list for the uk' and as she came back with dinner ingredients she had a pack of quavers and strawberries with her. (off me list) Hope I'm that thoughtful one day 🀩 Watched peepshow back at Dee's int night (she'd never seen it!!!)

Wedding day!!!!!
Dee gave us a lift to Ippo for 8am as she went to work. Met jack and Simon while I thoroughly enjoyed helping with their last wedding preparations. I'll try and post a vid on here of the ceremony as it was epic!

https://youtu.be/MroqzLCwC7c

Couldn't feel any happier seeing Donna, Josh, the 'Darps' ,jess n jim, kate (jacks mum) etc and watching me dearest jack get hitched to the wondeblah simon! They're soooo good together....I love how funny simon finds jack...they totes get each other. Managed to not get as done in as I could of ...extremely happy to sing n dance along to Josh's music...makes up for the Driscolls cancelling πŸ€— Taxi back to Hayley and Aidans to snore. After some toast and a smoothie I actually feel alright AGAIN in the morn...very surprised at meself. Dan very kindly gives me a lift to Rowhedge as Hayleys too done in to walk there. Another truly brilliant day with lots of me faves. Mum comes to join and I get a good helping of Kens curry....gunt=happy. Hoof playing their shizzle makes for a very happy but heart wrenching send off as I have to say me goodbyes after. The hardest goodbye I've ever had to make in all the times I'v gone travelling. Watching the beauts English countryside roll by as mum drives us back to Maldon and smelling the sweet, fragrant air I have an awful knot in me stomach and feel like a wanna ball it every time I speak. Mum thoughtfully puts the music up so I don't have to. Dinner, pack and shower ready for early doors the next day. Easy 4am run to Heathrow the next day (Thanks mum), bit of trouble getting checked in as they wanted proof of an outward flight from panama...Neil (mum's husband) sorted me out having to buy another plane ticket from Panama to Columbia as they wouldn't believe the boat story! Jokes (Thanks Neil) Arrive in Panama at 4.30pm...get meself to a hostel for a much needed eyelid droop.

9/6/19 - 23/6/19..... HARMAN
...ben narrating this to me..i'll try and make it more exciting 😜

Back on the boat he spent 3-4 days at anchor by Panama city doing some boaty jobs and speaking to people () Leaving early one morning heading west he got stuck waiting for the shipping channel to clear. Lovely sail to Bona(Lolz) island....stayed there for a couple of days doing a few more jobs and generally resting in the humid 30 degree heat. As the weather turned for the better he tried to leave at 6pm in the evening heading towards Costa Rica. A big thunderstorm to the North sent him running back. Trying again at 10pm for the 90mile trip north the sail was grand, dolphins appearing beside babs in the dark. Lightening started around 2am, wind dying as the sea built up. Benny boi took the sails down as gusty wind from all directions forced him to motor spending till sunrise trying to avoid the forked lightening and overhead thunder roars...raining like he's never seen it before (poor ol benneth) Decided he wasn't making any headway south with a strong headwind and continuous lightening all around. Turned back and had 2 more big lightning storms on his way to the island. The rain eventually stopped and the sun came out as he arrived back at the Bona.
Relaxed for a couple more days at the island with a fellow fishing boat who treated him to a fish and some bait. Managed to cook up the fish all by himself 😜with rice n peas. Then headed over one morning to the mouth of the river Chame enjoying the sailing using google earth to get around the sand banks as the charts were pretty inaccurate. Found a nice bay to anchor in on the north shore and explored inland on a walkies. A family of a big ol house let him leave the dinghy on their beach and he went on an unsuccessful trek for fresh veg..luckily he did find his favourite ...BREAD! Few more jobs-servicing the engines and walks on the nearby islands before setting sail to pick my happy lil arse up in Vista mar marina 5 hours up the coast through lots of fishing boats/nets.
Back togeths and ready for ben to have a lil holiday away from our biiig holiday!

I am awoken by a school group in the communal kitchen of the hostel around 7am but lay in for a little longer listening to the snores and farts of me other roommates but enjoying the air-con. Up at 8am to get a 1.5 hour bus to Vista Mar Marina to meet the Harms. They drop me off at the entrance and I plod on with a 18.5kg bag on me back and little-un on front down a hot dusty road for 30mins or so before collapsing in a bar and ordering a passionfruit smoothie...ker-ching! An hour or so later I glimpse benny boi sailing Babs into the Marina and we reunite.πŸ’šπŸ’™ He's been extremely cute baking some brownies (maybe the best brownie ever!) and writing 'Love ya' on it...gahhhhh he then shows me a friendship bracelet he's plaited (he's made me one every birthday but missed it this year).. catch up over a few gins before meeting perigee, leela and Brian for dins in a restaurant.

Leaving the Boat in the marina for a few days we head back to panama city to get the bus to Costa Rica...Leaves at 11pm and we manage to get a bit of kip on there as it wasn't completely full so we can stretch out despite the stinky footed, sweaty gringo in his suit behind us. Wrapped up in socks and crocs, raincoat and sarong over me legs shivering in the air con. Arrived at border control and had various things stamped...off at San Jose after a 14 hour bus ride to get another 4 hour bus to Liberia. Bens Aunty and Uncle (Nic and Daniel) were waiting and drove us 1 hour back to their house down the monkey trail. Lovely bbq'd beef and salad (aint eaten beef in yonkers but thoroughly enjoyed it!) Totally knackered so hit the comfy, air conned bed (such a treat) as over 30 degrees outside. Spent the next 3.5 days being shown around by the family, Went to at least 4 different beaches...dark and light coloured sands, spying spotted rays on the shoreline gliding along. Swims in the sea and the pool outside their apartment. Walked up a hill with Tom (bens cousin)...proper interesting chap with a shared love for books () Homemade bread, papaya and ginger jam with local fresh fruit at brekki times. Wandered around Tamarindo-a surf town for a day ending it with a couple of drinks at the sailing club near to Nic and Daniels house. I cooked a Vege Lasagna for the last night while Nic made an amazing Papaya, mango and pineapple crumble! I've got the recipes for that and the jam..wup wup! Found some red, hairy ball fruits (similar to lychees) that I bloody loved and all.
Heard there were strikes in the capital-San Jose causing big traffic so we took the 4 hour bus there the day before our ride back to Panama, getting a hostel for the night. Went for a late dinner, before a lovely sleep in a 10 bed mixed dorm.

Our bus the next day was an hour late arriving at 1pm....our 14 hour bus journey turned out to be 30 hours due to all the strike induced traffic before the border. We had 5 American teenage/early 20's? loud annoying girls plus a mum in front of us...id lost my earplugs in England and was raging inside...all I could see in my mind was my fist slamming into one of the girls annoying laughing mouth or bitch slapping her from the side or slamming down on her head whack-a-mole style. So I tried to be more positive and think of happier things...next image in my mind was one of the girls heads in a glass cube with flowers all around....and then I punched her in the mouth shattering the glass.πŸ™ˆ Luckily not long after this vision they feel into a silent sleep....yes ma son! Funnily enough about 20 hours in to our freezing bus ride we were swapping stories (in a quieter voice thank god!) and sharing fruit...lolz. As morning came and we were still in a que we stood outside as locals came out of their houses with fruit and sticky, sweet, fried bread for sale which we shared with a Turkish bloke off a coach up the road. We had bought plane tickets to Ecuador as proof to the border we had onward travel. You can cancel within 24 hours so after downloading the ticket we managed to get in touch with Jane (bens mum) and she cancelled it for us as we didn't have enough internet out there. Got us through the border easily and was a quick drive back through Panama. Finally arrived back at Babs and after a busy eve of chores we conked out.

Took a bus to the city again to check out of the country, stocked up on some goods, ben loading his bag with three 6 packs of beers coz they were cheap...he regretted this on the 25min walk back down the marina and I was whingeing coz I was knackered but then we spotted an Owl in the dusk that kept flying to posts in front of us...proper magical. A bloke who gave us a lift to the bus station the day before came to check out the ongoing engine noise...not good news so we have to decide whether to stay here and sort it, getting babs out the water again or risk the engine to Ecuador so we are in cooler climbs with cheaper moorings and labor. Basically the same problem as in St Maartin- possible bent shaft and fucked gear box even though its new! Feeling bit depressed as defo don't wanna stay in this yard as it's so hot, aint much to do around and it'd be eating into me work-away time in Ecuador.... So this is my excuse for getting rather wasted with a fun Scottish gal (Sally) and a liverpudlian bloke (Dennis the Menis) who we met in the Arvo. () It was the 4th of July so the American boatys were having a bbq in the marina. So after a swim and couple of gins Denis kindly bought me we attended the bbq with a couple of side dishes to add to the feast. Great night singing into plastic forks and dancing along to Dolly Parton and Jonny Cash when I asked if it was alright to put my music on 😁...least they're American artists. Few of us back on the boat where it turned a bit ugly as Dennis was pretty done in but all went to bed safe n sound and had a lazy hungover day int morn.

Ben finished cleaning the water tanks with bleach the next day...got provisions off a roadside stall and the supermarket..said our goodbyes after an argument concerning our berth charges...soon had our way, filled up with diesel and motor-sailed into strong head wind. Arrived 4 hours later in the dark, Harms skillfully leading us into the bay to anchor and to beddy byes. Tonnes of Frigates and Pelicans nesting and soaring on this uninhabited island...Ben makes some more brownies for our passage to Ecuador I finished Tash's (brothers g/f is an author) book which was very good...will try post a link on me Facebook page or here....
http://www.njking-author.co.uk

Started Raining with wind blowing into the bay around 8.45pm, waves picking up ...calmed a little so we got some sleep motoring out of the bay at daybreak to find a sheltered spot. Sailed back to Chame River mouth where Ben had been hangin' out, prepared the boat for passage, cooking up meals, cleaning etc. Tis really friking delightful round here with lots of green little islands and calm waters.
Left at 7am the next morning but our course was overhung by a massive dark cloud stretching out across the horizon with lightening forking into the sea and constant rain. After some deliberation as ben just wanted to get under way but common sense and watching enough survival shows we knew it was stoooooopid to head into a raging storm if we had the chance to turn back to safety, so turn back we did, watching films hiding from the rain for the rest of the day.

Todays the day-left at 6.30am just as a couple of fisherman rode past offering us some weed...we declined () Lovely sun and cloud filled day seeing a couple of dolphins glide slowly by just after dinner. Had a play of me whistle and managed to exercise as was a calm sea and motor sailing. Me first 3 hour night shift was good being able to read me book by red torch light. At the end of my 01.00-04.00 shift the rain clouds crept in forming a horseshoe around our port, stern and starboard sides eventually dropping their loads...so I cowered inside for the last half hour checking out every 10 mins. Still wet by the morn but really happy to see no lightening coming in close. I spotted some whales very far off on the horizon breaching causing almighty splashes underneath a foreboding sky. On the same shift on our starboard side around 40 dolphins were swimming swiftly in the other direction to Babs. Made Papaya and Ginger jam and Dahl for tomorrows din as the aubergine was going off. It's always a bit of a race to use up the veg quick enough in the right order of it going off since we've been in the tropics. Got me whistle on-bens a fooking trooper letting me make some terrible noises on that thing. I'm LLLLOOOOOOOOVVVVVIIINNNG it though...Big thanks to Steph for suggesting it...changing me world! Nice, calm eve until 4am when the wind and waves begun to build and we put a tack in.

Tacking and motor-sailing into headwind the next day, reading, cooking and whistling me way through the calm-ish day at 4-5 knts. Feel pretty bored by the evening as the motion of the ocean aint allowing much human movement. Cloudy night, pitch black when the moon went down around 2am. Engine spluttered into dead mode around 3.30am. Ben jumped up to have a look and concluded its probably just ran out of fuel as we've been on the lean with the sails up trying to make the best speed to get us out of the lightening zone. Ben gets it going in the morning adding more fuel. Fisher boat turns up 100 miles offshore pointing us to go in the other direction as he has nets out. We tack away..lots of rain and not heading on a good angle on either tacks- one taking us the way we came and the other to the Columbian coast which is not that safe. Easy pasta for dinner as boat moving violently slamming down the waves at the bow. Worst night at sea yet! Reefs in main and mizzon (back sail) and genoa (front sail) heading into choppy seas with too much wind. Calmed down a bit in the middle of the night, 2-3 birds joining us and dropping their dark, fishy shit on both sails. Having a cuddle in the cockpit with ben when a squid lands squechily onto me foot dousing bens leg with a bit of ink on its way through. At around 10cm long he's breathing hard and looking at me with his big ol' eye so I quickly chuck him back into his home. Few flying fish land on board aswell so we throw their squirming bodies back in. Easy food all day as movement is rough! Seas calmed on ben's 10-1am shift leading to bit of cat-napping on watch and podcasts, tacking between shifts. Nice, calm day still tacking at 4-5knts. Get me cooking on and used the engine to motor sail for 6/7 hours. After a nap to me meditation I came up as the sun was going down to be greeted by a bunch of bottlenose dolphino's! Annoying, choppy seas bashing babs around, feeling bored as we cross the EQUATOR! Bens very excited! Windy night and have to keep a good look out for fishermen as less than 50miles to shore. On my sleep shift I feel the boat tack and wonder what's going on, then it tacks again and ben calls me up.....the rudder is caught in a fisher net! Fwuuuuuckkk! Feeling pretty windy with waves bashing into bab's side ben try's to unhook the net using a boat hook. He's yells at me to take down the mainsail which I fail at as too much wind going into it. Next minute he decides to jump overboard (tis 11pm) and try to go under to unhook it. I'm trying to shine the torch under the boat hanging over the back rail, me arm going underwater as babs stern crashes down...fucking terrifying seeing ben barely hanging onto a rope and suddenly sharks cross me mind. It's too dangerous for him to go under the boat with the massive swell so I tell him to cut it and grab a knife. Boat starts forward as soon as the rope's cut and ben clambers back onboard! Shit me! I have 1 hour left of my off shift but can't sleep worrying if the fishermen will come after us with machetes for cutting their lines. Daybreak comes and no fishermen so all's good..wrapped up in 3 layers it's the coldest we've been for months (I'm enjoying it-ben not so much..lolz) wind drops a bit so we pull out more sail. 2 prangas approach requesting water and to sell fish...smiley ppl () Ben spots a whale breaching in front of us on the horizon and as we get closer to land we see many humpback whales at different distances breaching, blowing and showing their elegant tails-fucking magical...a dream come true!! Had to wait for high tide to get into our chosen river so stopped the boat by heaving to and munch some lunch. We meet the pilot at a waypoint and he guides us through the narrow channel, surfing down waves...sketch! He spoke no English but guided us with his hands grinning his wikid smile.

We anchored up in Bab's new home for the next few months while we adventure inland volunteering with Workaway. Meet the American owner and he shows us around. Quick beer for ben while using the Wi-Fi....dinner and much awaited sleepy time. Went ashore to explore Bahia de Caraquez. The town was devastated by an earthquake in 2016 and is still recovering, the signs are very visible. As we walk along, people are friendly without being pushy and we look around the supermarket and fresh produce market...hell yeah..this is what I've been waiting for-the most variety of crazy looking fruit and vegetables, fresh ground peanuts into peanut butter, fresh mozzeralla type cheese and cheaper than any place we've been yet...it will be a fab place to stock up for our big crossing over to the Marquesas. Green smoothie in the morn and starting to clean the cupboards with vinegar to stop the mould getting in. Navy and health inspector come on board to check our food is in date and other random stuff to check us into the country. We use the marina as an agent so it's $180! And will be the same amount to check out. Facetimed our mums and bens dad to show we safe etc.
Walk along the rive
r bank the next day which is a Saturday so a lot of the locals are off work. Football is being played on the beach with a crowd of onlookers and little fruit and ice cream stalls tending the peoples munchies. A family playing beach golf and others splashing in the waves. Rickshaw type bikes peddle people from place to place whilst others peddle their snacks to customers on the beach. In the eve we get invited for some sun-downers on our neighbor's boat-a French and New Zealand couple with 2 teenage daughters on a boat similar size to Babs. Interesting, fun people who treat us to lots of yummy snacks and fresh squeezed juice (for me, ben was on beer)

So now we'll spend a few more days eating through our frozen food and getting the boat ready to leave on double moorings while we go on workaways and hikes throughout Ecuador coming back to check on her every few weeks. Very excited!!!
Big love to all you bum munchers back home or wherever you may be...xxxx


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Vessel Name: St Barbara of mersea
Vessel Make/Model: Nicholson AC
Hailing Port: St Osyth, UK
Crew: Ben and Amy
About:
We a young (ish) couple from the lands of Essex with a passion for adventure and new experiences. Ben is a born n bred sailor growing up on a boat yard with his mum, dad, brother and sister. [...]
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