From Siracusa Italy to Menorca, Spain- two passages: First from Taormina to Acciaroli- 150nM of motoring and engine/fuel problems -45 hours/Second passage from Salerno to Menorca; 500nM, 110hrs, 30 hrs sailing, 80 hrs motoring
14 August 2018
Crossing the Mediterranean (July 29- August 12)-Part 4
From Syracuse, Sicily to Menorca, Balearic Islands
It is interesting how even the best laid plans change when things happen....It is seldom funny when it occurs, but it provides crazy story material that our sailing friends can definitely relate to and perhaps our grandchildren may one day find fascinating. Thus there may be a merit of recording it....
We experienced wind challenges; either a general lack of wind or wind blowing from the opposite direction than predicted, hence changing our original passage plan to Balearic Islands. We were still dealing with the bacteria in the fuel we bought at the dock in Corinth, Greece. Even though Glen changed all the fuel filters and bought expensive additives that were supposed to fix the problem, we found ourselves at 1am with no wind and no engines under starry skies near small Italian town of Acciaroli. We were about 5 nm away from the shore and we could see lights from a handful of fishing boats in the sea. " Motore non parte - carburante sporco" was part of my plan B which was to explain in Italian why we were stuck, but no help came from the fishing boats. We decided to get some sleep and deal with the issue in the morning....and Prego- the wind appeared at 6am and we were actually able to sail to this cute town of Acciaroli. Just before we entered the harbor we dropped the sails. Glen got in the dinghy, tied it alongside the boat and started to push Danica towards the harbor. I steered her towards the area that looked like a decent place on the chart and anchored for the first time in style while being watched by curious spectators on shore and boats nearby. My sailing instructor Peter Simpson would be proud, that I know for sure. Glen then took our 5@25 liters diesel containers and made three trips with dinghy to the fuel dock to fill the tanks with fresh diesel. He changed filters again and enabled both engines to work. And life went on....
Notes from my diary below:
Day 24 - Monday- motored for 9 hrs from Siracusa to Taormina bay where we are anchored waiting for the passage window through the Strait of Messina.
Day 25- We are anchored in the bay below the medieval town of Taormina among many sailboats and mega yachts. Glen is fixing things on Danica and we have decided to take a bus to Taormina in the evening and have our last Sicilian dinner in style. For E3 each the bus took us up the steep hill and Glen found a barber who did a nice job but pricier than in Turkey. I am resorting to hats these days....
Day 26- Wednesday- August 1- Danica is on the go again. At noon we left the anchorage and motored along the Sicilian coast towards the Strait of Messina. After a few hours our starboard engine started acting up and we resorted to sailing across the strait towards Calabrian coast at 8knots with a plan to find an anchorage somewhere where Glen could service the engines again. But the seas got calmer as we came closer to the mainland and Glen changed all the filters and we resumed our voyage towards the Strait of Messina. Lots of various marine traffic - large freighters, ferries, military warship, a cruise ship, swordfish fishing boats and private yachts and us. Navigation is easier when both engines perform well.
Day 27- Thursday - August 2- Tyrrhenian Sea -There is no wind and we have been motoring at around 5knots. We have been looking at options to move in westerly direction and have decided to skip our planned visit to Tropea and move as fast as possible towards Salerno, Naples and Rome, find a nice anchorage and wait to cross the Tyrrhenian Sea to the northern Sardinia. With the lack of wind, there is no point of motoring further north. Mediterranean passage would be so much fun if we were travelling in easterly direction.
We have about 40 days to reach Gibraltar. It looks like we will be making about four longer passages and spend some time in Balearic islands and Spain. The plans are changing all the time and I am happy we are flexible enough to more or less go with the flow.
Day 28- Friday- August 3- last night, after dinner we played crib when both engines quit on us. Glen changed the filters but it did not help on the long run. We ended up with no wind and no engines and stayed put overnight with bunch of fishing boats in the Tyrrhenian Sea near town of Acciaroli. In the morning we managed to sail to Acciaroli and anchored in the harbor. Glen posted the experience on his facebook page. Captain took three trips to the fuel dock and we filled the tank with diesel and have 5 spare containers full of hopefully clean fuel.
Day 29- Saturday morning we motored from Acciaroli to Salerno. We anchored in the bay near the marina and downtown. Checked the chandleries and found some filters for the engines, picked up some vegetables and fruit and decided to take a fast train to Rome tomorrow.
Day 30- Sunday - We left Danica around 6am and hopped on the fast train to Rome and Vatican via Naples. The fast train experience was similar to Japan last year, except the language was friendlier this time around. In two hours we arrived to Rome and used the hop-on-hop off bus throughout the day to visit as many places as we could. Glen resorted to a classy horse and carriage tour in the afternoon and it was a fantastic experience of the Eternal City.
Danica, however did not have a good day. We were told by our Belgian boat neighbours that during our absence a power boat hooked our anchor and lifted it when they were leaving. A number of people from the boats nearby came to the rescue, but Danica got a little scratch from the experience.
Day 31- Monday - Salerno- chill day
Day 32- Tuesday- Day trip to Amalfi, Positano and Sorrento by bus was an experience in itself. In a nutshell; about 30kilometers of a very narrow road carved into a mountain, amazing view of the sea and manicured vineyards and orchards on narrow terraces with houses and B&B's. The journey was not smooth or quiet because our driver had one foot on gas and the other on the brake and used the horn in between. But the towns we visited were lovely and we enjoyed breakfast in Amalfi- lemon gelato for yours truly and bacon and eggs for the Captain.
One hour climb over countless steps in scorching heat in Positano was an experience I have no desire to repeat in near future. Glen and I had a nice lunch by the seaside and I had no idea we will have to climb two kilometers of steps to get to the bus station. I am sure I burned all the calories from the second lemon gelato because my legs were burning for days afterwards- maybe a little exaggeration, but this was over the top.
We were both so tried from climbing those steps, and having visitors the previous night until 2am, that all we wanted to do in Sorrento was find a park bench and have a nap, which would be a shame, so we got perked up by some real Italian coffee and then explored the downtown, which was very nice. I found some fantastic olive oil and came across a great fruit stand where I loaded up my bags with fruit and vegetables for our passage.
Not wanting to repeat the long and winding bus trip back to Salerno, Captain suggested a train ride to speed things up. And a train ride it was... First we hopped on a packed 3rd class train that took us to Pompeii. Did I mention, it was a very hot day.....In Pompeii we had to take a regional 2nd class train to Salerno. Pompeii has two train stations and the train from Sorrento stopped at one station but we had to catch the regional train at the second station. We were told the other station was just around the corner; yeah, right....After the fact we figured it was at least 3 km away. I have a weakness to go a little crazy at the fruit stands and I tend to stock up my bags at every opportunity and in Sorrento they had these beautiful fruit and vegetable stands along with artesian wines and everything Italian and tomorrow we were heading on a 500nm passage to Balearic islands.....So we were carrying bags full of nectarines and grapes and figs and apples and tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella and organic olive oil and some other incredible founds in a sweltering heat homebound. But we made it !!!
Day 33- Wednesday- Left Salerno 7am- motoring towards southern Sardinia- sailed white sails for 7 hours in the afternoon
Days 34 and 35-Thursday, Friday, - motored towards the southern tip of Sardinia- Day 36-Saturday - we are west of Sardinia. Finally sailing white sails since 8am- sailed all day until about 2am
Day 37-Sunday- motored towards Menorca- anchored by the sunset on the SE tip of the island- Playa de Punta Prima - we have completed our first 500nm passage. Had a dip in the Balearic Sea and a glass of wine from Sicilian FeudoRamaddini winery. This was a good passage with starry skies and meteor showers during night watches, dolphins playing with the boat, and amazing sunsets. Check out the Gallery for photos.
Bravo to us !!!!