Fighting Headwinds All the Way to Gibraltar
17 September 2014 | Gibraltar
Linda
After much studying of wind forecasts, we identified 2 safe anchorages to stop before Capo de Gato Spain (the southeast corner of Spain). Every afternoon the winds became strong and "on the nose", so each day we left very early (5 am one day and 3:30 am the next day) to get as far as possible before the afternoon. This allowed for "relaxed" afternoons safely anchored while the winds howled outside.
Based on forecasts, we anticipated the Cape rounding and the sail to the port of Almerimar to be the most difficult. The distance is only 38 miles but the winds were forecast to be the most heavy of the week. So we left our anchorage at 5 am, only to find calm winds but still confused seas from the prior days. We tied up at the Almerimar dock in calm conditions and enjoyed a full night reconnecting with Linda and Hugh Moore on Wild Goose, a boat that had crossed the Atlantic Ocean in our group back in 2012.
Again based on a study of weather and current (which we are beginning to distrust more and more!), we left Almerimar at 5 am and headed the final 135 miles for an overnight crossing, planning to arrive in Gibraltar mid-morning. No such luck! The first 65 miles of the trip were calm and pleasant but we had to motor due to lack of wind. (thus the saying in the Med: motor from gale to gale!)
Then strangely about 65 miles from the straits of Gibraltar we encountered a strong adverse current of 3 knots. One expects such a phenomenon in a narrow channel like the Straits of Messina or Gibraltar. But we would never have believed such a current existed in the open waters of the Mediterranean. About the same time, the wind came up. You guessed it: right "on the nose". So our progress was slowed to less than 2 knots through the water. We tried to sail for a while, tacking back and forth, but found that we were actually going backwards when we checked our track on the Navionics program. Yuck!
We gave up ever getting to Gibraltar that day and about 4 am headed north toward the city of Malaga. But FINALLY the current subsided and we were able again to head for Gibraltar.
We arrived at 5 pm, a 36 hour passage , to the Gibraltar Marina Bay which is right in the heart of Gibraltar. Our first stop was the fuel dock because Gibraltar is a duty free port and diesel here was only $.96 per liter instead of $2.00 or more per liter in the rest of Europe.