Sailing Ithaka

"May your road be long and full of adventure" - C.P. Cavafy

Rhythm, No Blues

After a few days of sailing and being tourists, we are getting into a rhythm, with more of a sense of familiarity with our boat, dry mouth successes docking, and exploration of the towns we visit.

Leaving Weymouth, we had our strategy down for transiting Portland Bill (a "bill" is a point) - go around. at slack water, and if not too windy, take the "inside passage" one or two cables (never had heard that measurement before, about 1/10 of a mile) from shore to avoid the races caused by the tidal streams from each side of the point intersecting and causing standing waves. We timed it well, followed the route described and had an uneventful sail through the Bill. After that, we had about 40 miles across Lyme Bay to our next stop, Brixham. The wind started out light but built to a bracing 12-15 knots. Our boat is comfortable and responsive, a great sail. Each of these days of sailing seem to end with having to dock the boat, though!! As we entered the harbor, we called the marina to find out what our berth number was, and on which side to tie the lines and fenders. We were told D67, dock to starboard side - ok. We entered and found a very narrow berth (sailboat already occupying the other side of the berth, with the wind pushing us toward the other boat) with very short docks. We gratefully accepted the assistance of a fellow sailor who caught our lines to assist us. getting in without problem. A long day, managing a hurdle, docking without incident - felt good.

The next day was a short hop to Dartmouth. We left the harbor for the 10 mile trip in dense fog. We have radar and AIS to "see" other boats so felt comfortable as we dodged a few lobster pots and made our way to the dramatic entrance of the harbor, with a fort of each side. As we entered, we called the harbor master on the VHF radio to request a berth (we have a pilot guide that explains procedures in different harbors). He told us "Deep Water Pontoon 1 or 3 in the middle" - ok. Amazing for us entering new harbors, dodging any boat traffic, navigating, and making our way to the designated spot. We found the pontoon - 1 and 3 were full, 2 had some space, so we decided to go into 2 and then call the Harbor Master. The Dart River has a significant current and we are getting the hang of docking next to a pontoon (versus in a pencil slip or berth, which we find trickier). We made it in without problem; someone docked near us said to not worry about being in a different spot. So we took care of the boat and then called a water taxi to take us into shore (how cool is that?). We have the dinghy but didn't know where/if there was a dinghy dock in Dartmouth, so this seemed easier. We explored the town, which was quite busy with British tourists. Many people have commented on how unexpectedly busy these shore town are, with the British summer holiday time not typically beginning until the end of June. Something else that we have noted is that we don't think we have seen one non-British tourist. We are lucky to have gotten in the country.

Today, Friday, we asked the Harbor Master if there was space on a mooring ball 2 miles upriver at Dittisham; he said yes, and that we would be rafting up to another boat on the mooring ball ( what? We had never heard of this). A beautiful trip upriver with heavy current to find the mooring ball we were told to occupy with the expected boat on the ball as well as one more boat. Raft to a mooring ball with 2 other boats - I guess so. We were able to gently come along side one of the boats and tie up to that boat and to the mooring ball. We took our dinghy to shore to wander. Steep sided town, flowers everywhere, every home with a name. For our wander, we left the dinghy in Dittisham, took a small ferry across the river (couldn't leave the dinghy there, no dinghy dock), walked past Agatha Christie's summer home, and continued another 3 miles through forest, pasture, and hillsides down river to Kingswear, the town across the river from Dartmouth. Another ferry across to Dartmouth, ferry upriver, ferry across river, dinghy to boat. Leftovers for dinner in our cockpit on the Dart River overlooking Dittisham. A good day.

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